element10554
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ah ha I forget that subaru makes more than just cars 
Power loss
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element10554
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I dont generally challenge senior members but you said gasonline is whats flammable. Gasoline is both ethanol and octane rating as a whole? My brother also said the same thing about the ethanol being less flamamble so aka if you have a higher octane rating you have less ethanol which means more flammable gasoline as a whole.
Disclaimer: my brother is obviously not a ends all to the knowledge of these small engines but he is where i get the vast majority of what knowledge of have from them.
Also please do not take any offense to this I am simply trying to understand.
Doc Sprocket
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I don't proclaim brilliance either, but the above is quite true. Gasoline is gasoline. With no additives, it would burn like a demon. These various additives give it "desirable" properties. Again, the octane rating essentially is a stability rating. Higher octane rating does NOT mean "burns better".
http://science.howstuffworks.com/gasoline3.htm
Cool Toy, check this out I learned something for sure. But I was right about one thing. Google "what is octane" for more info. So what I said is was what I've heard all my life. So the rating is what percentage of the gasoline can be compressed before it ignites. So really it burns slower, but by allowing more gasoline to be compressed before it ignites it therefore will explode harder thuss more power and a cleaner burn off. So I learned something as for us all.
Cool Toy, check this out I learned something for sure. But I was right about one thing. Google "what is octane" for more info. So what I said is was what I've heard all my life. So the rating is what percentage of the gasoline can be compressed before it ignites. So really it burns slower, but by allowing more gasoline to be compressed before it ignites it therefore will explode harder thuss more power and a cleaner burn off. So I learned something as for us all.
element10554
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Yea I dont know my head hurts now ha.
element10554
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I was finally able to do the compression test and my best number was 75psi with the engine warm
element10554
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another update I was talking to my grandpop today about the compression on my 6.5hp briggs engine and how I would have to get it rebuilt. He then told me I could have the 5.5hp honda gx 160 off the pressure washer in the garage 
so I guess ill be installing that and still trying to fix the 6.5
Does anybody know the process on how to rebuild the engine? I am sure there is a guide around here ill start looking but do you believe its worth it?
so I guess ill be installing that and still trying to fix the 6.5Does anybody know the process on how to rebuild the engine? I am sure there is a guide around here ill start looking but do you believe its worth it?
Doc Sprocket
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If you're going to rebuilt it, get the service manual. There is way too much info you're missing without it. Clearances, dimensional specs, torque specs...
element10554
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In your experience is it hard to rebuild these engines. I have never rebuilt them before I have only ever taken the carb apart. Should I just bite the bullet and have a shop do it for me.
Russ2251
AZUSA:Powered by LAWN-BOY
Check shaft dimensions. I recently had a customer bring one in for repair and I noted that it had a stubby shaft and was unusable "as is" for powering anything else.
element10554
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Ah really? Ill have to take it apart tomrrow and ill post my findings. My 6.5hp had to long of a shaft and so the clutch on my TC wouldnt line up with the driven unit I had to use 4 HUGE spacers to get it to line up properly but now the clutch just barely sits on the shaft
I have to constantly check the bolt to make sure it doesnt come loose and lose my TC.
Russ2251
AZUSA:Powered by LAWN-BOY
Loctite blue #242 works wonders.
element10554
New member
Loctite blue #242 works wonders.
Next time im out ill grab a bottle thanks.
Loctite blue #242 works wonders.
Blue!? I can even get red to hold my PTO bolt one without a ton of it being applied. My next try will be JB weld. Maybe I'm just special...
Russ2251
AZUSA:Powered by LAWN-BOY
Perhaps. I rarely use the stuff unless I have an usual problem. I was always losing set screws on axle and sprocket hubs. No longer a problem.
B.M.800
TheBeal.
Its quite possible, Ive used the stuff and it worked great for me... maybe Im special...
Screendoor
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Just think of octane rating as the fuels resistance to knock. No need to get any more technical. I agree that hi octane fuel is a complete waste of money on an industrial engine. Unless you significantly raise the compression ratio or add a turbo haha
unrelated-ish: ive also noticed that when using hi octane fuel on my echo twostrokes i seem to get vapour lock(or something with the same symptoms) in hot conditions.
im no scientist but it dosent happen with low octane. No idea why. Any scientists?
either way i see no improvement from using higher octane fuel.
I have not tried an ethanol/bio fuel blend but i have heard that it can do bad things to rubber seals etc so i stay away.
unrelated-ish: ive also noticed that when using hi octane fuel on my echo twostrokes i seem to get vapour lock(or something with the same symptoms) in hot conditions.
im no scientist but it dosent happen with low octane. No idea why. Any scientists?
either way i see no improvement from using higher octane fuel.
I have not tried an ethanol/bio fuel blend but i have heard that it can do bad things to rubber seals etc so i stay away.
element10554
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While there seems to be no benefit of getting higher octane to increase power I do believe that the higher octane has less ethanol which would in theory be better for the engine in the long run.
over here we only get ethanol blends in hi octane fuels. I think we only get 98 octane bio fuel and its 10% ethanol... i think.
edit: thats ron octane rating. Dunno how that would translate into the USA octane rating system. ron + mon / 2 or something?
edit: thats ron octane rating. Dunno how that would translate into the USA octane rating system. ron + mon / 2 or something?
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