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  #21  
Old 04-27-2019, 11:36 AM
Laura Laura is offline
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The motor is about 2 years old and I did not buy it. I bought a kart with it on the kart.

I did take the fuel tank off and allowed fuel to drain out of the fuel hose and into a can. The fuel flow was real slow. Not quite a dripping but not much more. I then took the nipple out of the bottom of the tank and the filter was not allowing fuel to flow well, even with the hose off. Used air hose and blew backwards through the filter. Tried it and it ran better, even at high rpm's for a couple minutes but then reverted back and died. I believe it may be a bad fuel filter on the bottom of the tank. The fuel would flow real well out of the tank for a short period after I blew the filter out. I am going to get a new filter nozzle for the tank.
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Old 04-27-2019, 12:48 PM
Laura Laura is offline
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I cut out the filter segment of the tank nozzle. The flow was good but the engine problems stayed the same. Pretty frustrating. I believe I am dealing with multiple problems and one resolution does not help.

I can start the engine with the choke closed (on) but the throttle must be at least partly open. It starts very easily. It runs after I open up the choke (off) as long as I keep the throttle just above idle but not to 3/4 throttle. It seems to accelerate and run fairly well unless I take it up to the higher rpm's. After about 1 minute of running well, it just loses rpm and dies. I can close the choke and hold the throttle about 25% open and it will start and run all over again. Then in a minute it just stalls out and dies.

It really acts like it pulls the float bowl level down and then starves itself. In a few seconds it fills up and it will start and run at low to mid range rpm's for a minute and stalls out all over again.

---------- Post added at 02:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:41 PM ----------

The engine is on a kart with the motor tilted forward a bit. When I got the engine and kart I put a new carb on it as the old one was somewhat gummed up. It ran fine with a new carburetor on it this winter. Then a week ago it acted as described. I put a new carburetor on it again and it still acts the same.
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  #23  
Old 04-27-2019, 03:26 PM
mckutzy mckutzy is offline
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Lets see a few pics of the throttle setup... something here I think is amiss....
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  #24  
Old 04-28-2019, 06:00 AM
Laura Laura is offline
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I have no idea how to post photos but when I operate the throttle, I turn the throttle directly with my finger. I am using no linkage. The governor is disconnected externally but I did not take the crankcase open to remove the governor parts. It ran well this way this winter when I was reconditioning this kart. We went to Florida and when I came back I got it ready to put on the ground and drive it. This is when it started acting up. It sat for 70 to 80 days in between.

It is possible that whatever caused the "first new carb" to act up got transferred into the "second new carb". I am thinking that some gum collected in the tank and caused the tank nozzle filter to gum up and some of that got into the "first new carb". Then when I put the second new carb on I had not cleaned the filter, not flushed out the fuel line or replaced every drop of fuel in the tank with fresh fuel. It could be the same thing happened to the second new carb immediately. Both carbs act the same way but the latest one runs a bit better. I ordered a new nozzle/filter for the tank. I will clean and flush it really well and then clean out the new carb very well. It almost has to be a fuel problem that is causing blockage somewhere.

I bought the "second new carb" because I lost the tiny spring on the float needle valve when I cleaned the "first new carb". And here may be the tip I am looking for; when I bought this kart/engine, it would not start and had been sitting for 8-9 months. I tried to clean the original carb but it was very gummed up. So for $12 I bought the first new one. I did not clean the tank, filter etc but just added new fuel into a small amount of fuel that was already in the tank.

I did not do my duty in taking every bit of the fuel system apart and clean every bit of it. But for a while, I ran the engine with the "first new carb" and it ran well. I did not run it more than 30 minutes total before it sat 70-80 days.

With the help of you all, I may have learned a valuable lesson on these little engines/carbs. I have a car with dual Weber racing carbs and they are extremely sensitive to any minute particle of lint, dust or dirt. I have three filters on that car to help keep it running well. I took this little engine/carb for granted and maybe that is my problem.

Thanks so much for helping me think this thing through. I will keep this post going and maybe it will help someone in the future to take clean fuel more seriously in a small engine.
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  #25  
Old 04-28-2019, 09:26 AM
mckutzy mckutzy is offline
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No problem...
Dont feel bad.. number of us here joined and thinking that cause they knew a thing or 2 on racing vehicles or hot rods... and come in pretty stumped on a tiny carb such as what we have here....
The darn motor just doesnt scale properly, theory does somewhat, but not really....

http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=737

Off hand, I think the problem is the gov situation....
The gov linkage and the springs cause the butterfly to be slightly cocked open for starting. hence the small flimsy spring in the linkage set... otherwise the throttle shuts closed completely... then nothing gets in..
Try hooking back up the rod and the springs with the throttle plate... im sure itll work...

Now as to why Im suggesting this... the gov is in...
If the gov isnt completely removed inside.. the gov wheel can be spun fast enough to cause the thing to come apart, and a few metal bits flying about inside will cause destruction.....
Same thing if you by pass the gov... except the rod might go with it....

So keep it as stock setup.. or completely remove the gov wheel/rod inside/out......
The stock valve springs will act as the gov in this case, as it will induce valve flutter at a rpm acceptable before con rod dissection...
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