Denny
Canned Monster
That seems excessive to me also. But you may have to drive it to see how it responds but it does look like you could go shorter. Video great idea!
First build, Grand Daddy
- Thread starter MTScott
- Start date
I only have the belt hooked up to the jackshaft... not running anything else.... it kinda seems to operate correctly. So, i dunno... I have other belts and about 1.5" of adjustment, so I guess one way or another I'll be able to make it work.
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Denny
Canned Monster
I wish you had the chain on it with working brakes so I could see how much the primary closes before it tries to move. But my gut says after seeing the video try a smaller belt. You just don’t want one too small that the kart tries to move right away when starting.
Denny
Canned Monster
Looks great! If you don’t beat on the trans it may last a little while. If you would have put the driven on the trans atleast you would have had the belt to absorb some of the shock loads. But it looks great! Might want to add some zerks so you can grease those bronze bushings though. Carry on!
Thanks Denny. Yeah I considered trying use it directly in the driven pulley. One of the issues is the way it is keyed, and the driven pulled has it's key built in. I ended up adding a 3/4" adapter sleeve to this, so it might have worked, but it wasn't long enough anyway. This was intended to be used on a 30 series, so it the input shaft falls short on the 40 series driven - The threaded portion ends up inside the pulley. If I ever do this a different way, I may consider cutting of the threaded end of the shaft, and getting a coupler to mate it to the jackshaft, and have the transmission input supported by the pillow block bearing. I'd have to raise the pillow blocks and move them back a bit. We'll see how this holds up.
Here is a pic of the tacked up front mount/adjuster. It turned out really solid, and once I burn it all in, it should be plenty stout.
This morning I tacked in the mount for the MCP caliper. This was fairly simple and the height was just about perfect for using a piece of 1.25" angle. Notice, i'm running out of space here. It is pretty close to the driven pulley. I'll reiterate again to anyone building their rear subframe to go wider. I went 2" longer, but I wish I'd gone at least 2" wider as well with the bigger motor, torque converter, jackshaft, transmission, etc... more space would have been better.
Denny
Canned Monster
When you build one for you and yourself you can correct all those deficiencies. You need to make up a couple of sets of printed plans and make changes to them as you go. Then mail a set to me! 
When you build one for you and yourself you can correct all those deficiencies. You need to make up a couple of sets of printed plans and make changes to them as you go. Then mail a set to me!
Ha, well I'll have to wait until I'm done because I'm making this up as I go at this point.
Denny
Canned Monster
I must say with all seriousness you are doing a hell of a job on this.
Mvp6905
New member
All this great work is intimidating haha. I haven't built the front suspension block yet slowly collecting components so I can mock it up as I go. I'm following your build closely. Feeling like I bit off more than I can chew with what I'm seeing haha. But with all the money in steel and having already welded the main frame. There is no turning back haha. Keep up the great work!
Thanks for the compliments gents, it is motivating.
I felt the same way buddy (and still do at times). Without question, I was in over my head on this project. The mantra I tell myself every time I get intimidated by a project is "you only learn how to do this stuff one way, and that is by doing it". It is sometimes overwhelming trying to learn from youtubers with skills and tools well beyond mine, but those guys didn't just show up knowing this stuff - they were intimidated once upon a time too. You had the moxy to take the project on so I reckon you have what it takes to finish it.
Do one little piece at a time if you have to. My only victory one day was cutting and drilling a single piece of angle to mount the caliper. That's all I got done that day, but it helped me get over the intimidation of building the brake system.
You'll get there. If you get stoved up, go cut just one piece of metal for the steering box... it'll get you moving again. Sometimes I take my time just getting the metal bits cut and prepared to weld, and then it is there waiting for me to tack together when I'm ready.
Denny
Canned Monster
You just gave the best bit of advise you could ever give some one. And backed it up with facts and reasoning too!
Just checking in gentlemen... I've been at a standstill for a 6 weeks or more. Kids started a new school, wife started on a new degree, big project at work, septic system backed up, fall clean up, cutting firewood for winter, hunting season.... you know, life happens.
I hope your projects are moving along and you all are doing well. I'm hoping to get back on this soon.
I hope your projects are moving along and you all are doing well. I'm hoping to get back on this soon.
madprofessor
"Loose Cannon Creations"
Just now catching up on your posts, you're doing some good-looking work. Had to pipe in my agreement on wider/longer is better when creating a swingarm or IRS for a kart. Wanted to caution on that though.
I went just plain too much in that vein, see pic below. You actually can overdo it. I went super-long on the swingarm to get a crazy amount of travel with a motor rigid-mounted on a rack in the offroad mode, and when it's dropped down to track mode. Really got more than I wanted, even with the 15" floorpan/ground clearance or the 2" clearance. Note the reverse-mounted pillow blocks for the swingarm to keep it off the ground in track mode.
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Denny
Canned Monster
Hope to see you building again soon!
That is a very interesting build... using the subframe pivot point as a jackshaft.... you kept the motor up on the chassis.
Denny
Canned Monster
Old trick from way back. But it works good!
madprofessor
"Loose Cannon Creations"
I can't stand the idea of me building a pogo-stick engine mounted on the swingarm on purpose, especially with a theoretical 2' of travel at the rear bumper. That's also the only way you can do it without depending on a really super strong chain tensioner or idler to take up the constantly changing chain-slack as the pogo jumps up/down.
Started with a 44.65" shaft, mounted all the bearings on it, and welded on the extensions from the frame for the swingarm pivots and jackshaft to bolt down to. Basically the same for the swingarm bearings themselves. Only after all 8 bearings were permanently bolted down did I cut the shaft into 3 pieces, arranged to have plenty of keyway space for the jackshaft. Perfect alignment. Why bother to cut up the shaft? So only the jackshaft section would spin high rpm. Swingarm pivots get no more of a workout than the door hinges on my shop.
Note: Most cheap pillow blocks are only rated for 4K rpm. My 12-tooth CVT output sprocket goes to a 24-tooth jackshaft input sprocket to completely eliminate any chance of over-spinning the jackshaft bearings.
TNThomas
Well-known member
Build is looking good! Darn septic! You will get it figured out. If you are planning on replacing it yourself, and have questions, I "might" have some helpful info. Mine backed up a few years ago and I replaced all the lines+added an extra branch to the leach field. This one was a beast, but did it with a garden tiller, shovel, and about 3 gallons of whiskey. Probably $600-$700 in all took a while, but saved thousands.
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