thgrahamjr
Love To Build!
Sorry robin and fellow forum users for the lack of respect and immaturity.
welding rods wont weld ??
- Thread starter robin
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robin
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i tried them on stainless l but to no avail it was better than steel but cant hold an arc
M
mini bike man
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put the in the oven on 100 degrees for 10 minutes
robin
New member
will do
can anyone tell me more about the rods i have.
can anyone tell me more about the rods i have.
As a 'Ticketed Welder' blah blah blah...
Ha ha, I'm not familiar with those rods, but if they are a Stainless steel rods then they act a bit different from normal steel rods.
You strike the arc & then you actually have to keep a bit of a longer arc than normal.
As thats happening the end of the rod heats up & forms a bit of a ball of molten metal on the end inside the arc.
At the same time the metal you are welding too is holding the other end of the arc & as the arcs moving around a bit its cleaning the oxide off the surface of the metal, its also heating up the metal to red hot.
If you are arcing on the edge of the metal you will see the sharp edge of it get rounded off a bit.
At that point theres now a ball of molten metal on the end of the rod & the metal you are welding too is slightly molten & free of oxides.
Theres also a big fat clean sharp arc moving between them.
Right at this point you move the electrode in towards the work metal & shorten up the arc.
You are sorta 'throwing the ball of molten metal' on the electrode off onto the work metal.
It then sticks only (hopefully) to the clean molten, free of oxides, work metal.
Thats when you lenghten the arc again & go thru the whole process again.
I liken it a bit to TIG welding, where the arc is clean & the filler metal gets dumped onto the hot molten work metal & sticks there.
Theres also that classic 'Tig weld' look, a long line of clean sideways ripples (or a long line of overlapping dollops of weld metal...)
Another thing is that the flux on stainless steel rods is **** Hard! If you get slag inclusion in the weld theres not much of a chance of burning it out.
The other thing about this flux is, it shrinks a lot as it cools,
& I can be a real bastard
Because if someone is watching me weld & who thinks they can weld & can judge my welds
They normally move in real close to the weld when I have finished.
Thats when I move out real far, & they move in even closer & start criticising my weld.
And theres a 'Pink'
as the flux cools & pops off in a outward direction towards their faces,
hitting their cold skin & sticking to it...
"ARRRRHHHH fook fook, thats hot ouch d*mnit"...
I laugh.
Ha ha, I'm not familiar with those rods, but if they are a Stainless steel rods then they act a bit different from normal steel rods.
You strike the arc & then you actually have to keep a bit of a longer arc than normal.
As thats happening the end of the rod heats up & forms a bit of a ball of molten metal on the end inside the arc.
At the same time the metal you are welding too is holding the other end of the arc & as the arcs moving around a bit its cleaning the oxide off the surface of the metal, its also heating up the metal to red hot.
If you are arcing on the edge of the metal you will see the sharp edge of it get rounded off a bit.
At that point theres now a ball of molten metal on the end of the rod & the metal you are welding too is slightly molten & free of oxides.
Theres also a big fat clean sharp arc moving between them.
Right at this point you move the electrode in towards the work metal & shorten up the arc.
You are sorta 'throwing the ball of molten metal' on the electrode off onto the work metal.
It then sticks only (hopefully) to the clean molten, free of oxides, work metal.
Thats when you lenghten the arc again & go thru the whole process again.
I liken it a bit to TIG welding, where the arc is clean & the filler metal gets dumped onto the hot molten work metal & sticks there.
Theres also that classic 'Tig weld' look, a long line of clean sideways ripples (or a long line of overlapping dollops of weld metal...)
Another thing is that the flux on stainless steel rods is **** Hard! If you get slag inclusion in the weld theres not much of a chance of burning it out.
The other thing about this flux is, it shrinks a lot as it cools,
& I can be a real bastard
Because if someone is watching me weld & who thinks they can weld & can judge my welds
They normally move in real close to the weld when I have finished.
Thats when I move out real far, & they move in even closer & start criticising my weld.
And theres a 'Pink'
as the flux cools & pops off in a outward direction towards their faces,
hitting their cold skin & sticking to it...
"ARRRRHHHH fook fook, thats hot ouch d*mnit"...
I laugh.
I was making up parts for a exhaust for my gokart last week & used some cast iron bends in it.
The idea was to make it so I can unscrew parts of it to take it out of the gokart.
But bits of it had to be welded.
First I figured using my 7018 (56s, low hydrogen) rods.
It wasn't easy & then I bashed a welded on fitting with a hammer & it broke of where the weld finished.
There was 3 times the amount of weld needed before I thought it would be OK.
Unhappy with that I pulled out the RSP rods & found they were 2.5mm
(I thought they were 3.15mm & too big for this weld)
So I try a Steel tube-Cast iron weld with them.
WOW! Thats a LOT easyer, nice thin deep weld. Job Done!
So the stainless rods can be used on Cast Iron, sorta knew, but never applyed it in practise before.
Weirdly I put over a whole day into it & now I think I will redo it all in a different design, even got some Stainless steel scrubbing pads as exhaust packing.
(I mucked up a bit on the mesurements of the inlet & outlet of the final muffler, easyer to put it aside & make another now)
The idea was to make it so I can unscrew parts of it to take it out of the gokart.
But bits of it had to be welded.
First I figured using my 7018 (56s, low hydrogen) rods.
It wasn't easy & then I bashed a welded on fitting with a hammer & it broke of where the weld finished.
There was 3 times the amount of weld needed before I thought it would be OK.
Unhappy with that I pulled out the RSP rods & found they were 2.5mm
(I thought they were 3.15mm & too big for this weld)
So I try a Steel tube-Cast iron weld with them.
WOW! Thats a LOT easyer, nice thin deep weld. Job Done!
So the stainless rods can be used on Cast Iron, sorta knew, but never applyed it in practise before.
Weirdly I put over a whole day into it & now I think I will redo it all in a different design, even got some Stainless steel scrubbing pads as exhaust packing.
(I mucked up a bit on the mesurements of the inlet & outlet of the final muffler, easyer to put it aside & make another now)
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