Tsunami (2024) Electrathon Racer (#47) "T for Victory"
- Thread starter Functional Artist
- Start date
Functional Artist
Well-known member
I'm always lookin' for & tryin' different options/parts
...&/so, I came across this 6"-dual flange-wheel kit (originally for a Coleman minibike) (~$40.00)
This Kit Includes:
The sprocket mounts on (1) side & the brake disc on the other
Seems like a pretty good deal
...~$10.00 for the sprocket
...~$10.00 for the brake rotor/disc
...~$10.00 for the rim
...~$10.00 for the tire
...& the axle, nut & spacers could be considered "free"
Probably kinda like this
...&/so, I came across this 6"-dual flange-wheel kit (originally for a Coleman minibike) (~$40.00)
This Kit Includes:
- 145x70-6 V Tread
- 6" Rear Wheel
- 75T #35 Sprocket
- Brake Disc
- Rear Axle
- Wheel Spacers
The sprocket mounts on (1) side & the brake disc on the other
Seems like a pretty good deal
...~$10.00 for the sprocket
...~$10.00 for the brake rotor/disc
...~$10.00 for the rim
...~$10.00 for the tire
...& the axle, nut & spacers could be considered "free"
Probably kinda like this
Denny
Canned Monster
Are you sure you don’t have it backwards and the rotor mounts on one side and the sprocket mounts on the other?
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Denny
Canned Monster
Ok, good. Just didn’t want to see you flip over backwards when you hit the brake.
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Gonna need some kinda brackets to mount the rear wheel
Yup, makin' 'em both at the same time
...so, they match
After drillin' the hole for the axle, I did some bendin'
Also, added a caliper mounting bracket (which "doubles" the wall thickness & strengthens the area where the axle goes thru the mount)
Top view
Yup, makin' 'em both at the same time
...so, they match
After drillin' the hole for the axle, I did some bendin'
Also, added a caliper mounting bracket (which "doubles" the wall thickness & strengthens the area where the axle goes thru the mount)
Top view
Denny
Canned Monster
Not to be the flea in the ointment but will you be able to get the axle in and out with it all welded together?
Functional Artist
Well-known member
I wanted ta make sure the rear wheel was centered in 3D
So, first I made sure the wheel was in the center of the chassis
...then, made sure it was centered at the 3:00 (front) & 9:00 (back) positions
...& then, at the 12:00 (top) & 6:00 (bottom) positions
Looks like it's just a bit "off" (~1/16")
Need ta take a little "off the top" (actually the bottom, on the left side)
...&/so, quick "mark" so I know where ta trim 'er
Then, had ta take a break & pet Ducky
Weapon of choice, for this task
Re-assembled "everything"
...& then, checked all (3) directions again
Yup, that looks better
Prepped the patient for weldin'
...& then, tacked 'er "in place"
Well...if ya put the bolt/axle thru the bracket on an angle
...then, wedge the wheel in there
...while slidin' the axle thru the wheel bearings
...& then, take a left turn, at Albuquerque
JK
Yup, of course I made sure the bolt/axle clears the chassis
So, first I made sure the wheel was in the center of the chassis
...then, made sure it was centered at the 3:00 (front) & 9:00 (back) positions
...& then, at the 12:00 (top) & 6:00 (bottom) positions
Looks like it's just a bit "off" (~1/16")
Need ta take a little "off the top" (actually the bottom, on the left side)
...&/so, quick "mark" so I know where ta trim 'er
Then, had ta take a break & pet Ducky
Weapon of choice, for this task
Re-assembled "everything"
...& then, checked all (3) directions again
Yup, that looks better
Prepped the patient for weldin'
...& then, tacked 'er "in place"
Hey Denny,
Well...if ya put the bolt/axle thru the bracket on an angle
...then, wedge the wheel in there
...while slidin' the axle thru the wheel bearings
...& then, take a left turn, at Albuquerque
JK
Yup, of course I made sure the bolt/axle clears the chassis
Functional Artist
Well-known member
This mini-bike rear wheel looks ta be ~4" wide
Now, we need some wheels up in the front w/brakes
...but, this single flange rim looks ta be ~5" wide (wider = a bigger/heavier tire, w/ a bigger contact patch = more rolling resistance
I was thinkin' about tryin/usin' the dual flange mini-bike rear wheels (~$20.00 ea. ) up in the front
...but, their bearings are 6201RS (12mm x 32mm x 10mm) for a 12mm spindle/axle
Hey T,
I'd rather use (& already have designed into the mix & already mounted on the chassis) standard go kart spindles (5/8" shaft)
IMO a 12mm axle (supported on both sides) seems strong enough for use in the rear
...but, 12mm (just under 1/2") seem a bit small/thin for a spindle that's only supported on (1) side
Have any ideas?
...do we have any options???
Now, we need some wheels up in the front w/brakes
...but, this single flange rim looks ta be ~5" wide (wider = a bigger/heavier tire, w/ a bigger contact patch = more rolling resistance
I was thinkin' about tryin/usin' the dual flange mini-bike rear wheels (~$20.00 ea. ) up in the front
...but, their bearings are 6201RS (12mm x 32mm x 10mm) for a 12mm spindle/axle
Hey T,
I'd rather use (& already have designed into the mix & already mounted on the chassis) standard go kart spindles (5/8" shaft)
IMO a 12mm axle (supported on both sides) seems strong enough for use in the rear
...but, 12mm (just under 1/2") seem a bit small/thin for a spindle that's only supported on (1) side
Have any ideas?
...do we have any options???
Master Hack
Well-known member
Not any good ones.
Here is the problem:
6201 = 12 x 32MM
The best bearing choice for 5/8 bore is 6202-10 that is .625 x 35 MM. That means boring out the wheel hub 3MM or .118 inch.
You would have check the wheel to see if that is possible. An external sleeve could be added if necessary.
EDITED: The 6201 bearing OD was incorrectly listed as 35 mm instead of 32 mm.
32 MM is correct. Corrections have been made. The staff at the Mt. Top appoligieses for any inconvenience this may have caused.
Last edited:
Denny
Canned Monster
If you can overinflate the tires you can reduce the contact patch and lower rolling resistance.
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Ok so, I haven't been able to find any 6" rims with the 4 x 4 bolt pattern (for use with our custom dual flange hubs)
...but, I found these rims (with a 3 1/2" bolt pattern):
With a couple of these brake rotors:
...but, I found these rims (with a 3 1/2" bolt pattern):
6" Galvanized Split Rim (3-1/2" Bolt Pattern) (~$18.00 ea.)
Product Specifications:- Galvanized Split Rim
- (4) 3/8" Holes on a 3-1/2" Bolt Circle
- Center Hole: 1-5/8"
- Overall Width is 3-5/8"
- Outside Diameter is 7"
- Width for tire: 3-1/8" (Bead to Bead)
- Outside Diameter for Tire is 6"
With a couple of these brake rotors:
180mm Mini Bike Disc Brake Rotor (~$9.00 ea.)
- Mini bike disc brake fit for Motovox Coleman Monster Moto Mega Moto Baja Hensim TrailMaster Mini Bike Go kart
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Next up is aligning, marking & then, cutting the adjustment slots in the motor mounting plate
First, I "pinned" the motor mounting plate to the chassis (with a couple of sheet metal screws)
Then, used a straight edge from the motor (drive) sprocket to wheel (driven) sprocket
Looks to be pretty straight
Closer view
Marked for drillin
Drilled some "pilot" holes
Then, used the drill press to drill 'em out to 5/16"
Next, I used a small cut off wheel (& a straight edge) to cut out the material between the holes (to create the slots)
Cleaned them up with a file
...mounted the motor
...& then, double checked that it slid freely
Looks like we have ~1/2" of adjustment ability
First, I "pinned" the motor mounting plate to the chassis (with a couple of sheet metal screws)
Then, used a straight edge from the motor (drive) sprocket to wheel (driven) sprocket
Looks to be pretty straight
Closer view
Marked for drillin
Drilled some "pilot" holes
Then, used the drill press to drill 'em out to 5/16"
Next, I used a small cut off wheel (& a straight edge) to cut out the material between the holes (to create the slots)
Cleaned them up with a file
...mounted the motor
...& then, double checked that it slid freely
Looks like we have ~1/2" of adjustment ability
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Steering components
To "top off" the steering shaft, I chopped up a door hinge (my "patented" flip-up steering wheel mount)
...drilled some "custom" holes
...then, did a little shaping & rounding
...& for the bottom, I made up a double walled, double holed Pitman arm
To help make 'em symmetrical, I bolted 'em together & did most of the cutting & shaping
Then, unbolted them, flipped (1) over, re-bolted them together
...& did some more shaping, rounding & smoothing, until they matched (both ways)
To "top off" the steering shaft, I chopped up a door hinge (my "patented" flip-up steering wheel mount)
...drilled some "custom" holes
...then, did a little shaping & rounding
...& for the bottom, I made up a double walled, double holed Pitman arm
To help make 'em symmetrical, I bolted 'em together & did most of the cutting & shaping
Then, unbolted them, flipped (1) over, re-bolted them together
...& did some more shaping, rounding & smoothing, until they matched (both ways)
ezcome-ezgo
G'me sumthin to write on
Angry flat head screws. 
Master Hack
Well-known member
Have ya figgered out the wheel/hub dilemma?
Functional Artist
Well-known member
I'ma thinkin' so
6" rims (with 3 1/2" bolt pattern)
...& a couple of mini-bike rotors
Post #93 has links to the rims & rotor
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Steering wheel mount & steering shaft, prepped & "jigged up" for welding
...welded together
Mocked together & aligned
Flip up steering wheel mount
Double walled, double holed Pitman arm
Assembled on racer
...welded together
Mocked together & aligned
Flip up steering wheel mount
Double walled, double holed Pitman arm
Assembled on racer
Master Hack
Well-known member
Haven't been payin much attention lately.I'ma thinkin' so
6" rims (with 3 1/2" bolt pattern)
...& a couple of mini-bike rotors
Post #93 has links to the rims & rotor
l have some ketchupin to do.