Torque converter identification and questions

[Landon H]

So tackling the easier of my two Streaker projects. Trying to figure out a way to identify what torque converter this is. Or if it's even worth bothering with. The plan is to get a Predator 212 drive the motor is probably shot or at least more trouble than it's worth.

I know at minimum it needs a new belt, but given the state of the chain and sprockets, this thing probably say outside for a good while.

So questions are:
How do I find a stamp or anything to show what series it is?

I'm assuming that since it's on a smaller engine, it's not the 40 series so it'll bolt up to a predator. Is that correct?

From the looks of it, it is even salvageable? Or out should I just go ahead and plan on a new one?

 

[itsid]

looks like the original Torque-A-Verter (a Comet 30 series) on steel backplate.
the driver is marked with a "Comet industries" engraving [you can still make out some words ]
so it's the real deal, not just a clone

it can be restored to full glory*, and since it's an original set;
I even think it's worth it; especially if it's an old TAVkit
it'd be great to have it.
The driven (the rear pulley) were different in the first series.
hard to tell looks like a 15° cam...
so chances are it's essentially the "holy grail of comet 30 series"
(can handle a smidge more power and has a slightly better ratio allegedly)
if it's the 'new' one it's as easy to fix but not actually as worth the efforts

quick would be to buy a comet series 30 clone TavII-kit off ebay (~70 bucks)
has a better backplate too.

'sid

* what can not be restored with elbow grease can be bought from mfgsupply.com;
well for the driver..
the old style driven unfortunatly has to be restored 'manually'
you can buy spring and bushings and even the sheaves with post and cam, but you need to drill out the rivets and
reattach/rerivet your old post and cam in order to make it an old-style driven again.
(or just swap to a new style.. but do NOT throw the old one in the bin... sell it on ebay at least!)
new style driven parts are drop in replacements.

 

[Landon H]

Good deal. For the sake of simplicity and time, I may just buy a clone for this kart, and pull this off for the second of the pair of go-karts. The torque converter on that one look sway worse than this one. So I can have time to dig in closer and try to repair it if I can determine it's the good one. Also give me a chance to try that electrical rust removing technique I've read about.

 

[Grind hard garage]

I put a predator 301cc in mine with a 40 series from gopowersports, it’s was only $100 for the driver and driven clutches and fabbed up electric start using a “stater/alternator” from a Yamaha golf car. The stater and alternator is only $100 NEW! Here’s a video of the go kart running. These predator motors have a lot of power when geared and clutched right.