T/C oiling

[Tpdingo]

Ok, I've tried everything in my T/C.

3in1 oil
3in1 SAE 20 1/4HP+ oil.
WD40.
GumOut Teflon based SuperLube.
Lock dry lube.
Crushed up pencil lead.

The graphite keeps flying out and the oils make it accelerate like a Centri. clutch. Is very delayed to kick in and doesn't tension the belt right. What can I get in a store that works in a T/C 30.

 

[anickode]

Have you pulled it apart and cleaned it?

Do you have the correct (factory) spring and weight combination?

What and where exactly are you oiling on a torque converter?

 

[Tpdingo]

1) Multiple times, it is all good, rust free and clean. Used some brushes and brake clean.

2)Factory spring in the 1 setting in the T/C.

3)Just a light coating on the outer and inner part of the Driver.

 

[bob58o]

I've never put any oil on my TC. Just dry graphite spray lube.
https://www.gokartsupply.com/340ser.htm
And only the places with an "L" (where the weights slide).

Home Depot has Dry Graphite Spray Lubricant.
Spray it, let it dry (only takes a few minutes), then assemble.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Blaster-5-5-oz-Industrial-Graphite-Dry-Lubricant-8-GS/202597501

 

[itsid]

^^THAT!
Grant adds a bit of dry lube to the driven shaft (SHAFT ONLY!) as well,
it's tucked away enough so it can't harm the belt if done properly.

But as soon as you got any lubricant on the belt you will likely have to replace it,
especially if you used some sort of 'wet' oil chances are it sprayed and spoiled your belt.

'sid

 

[KartFab]

buy this stuff https://www.crcindustries.com/products/dry-moly-lube-11-wt-oz-03084.html

step 1. get all that oil off your torque converter.
step 2. clean/degrease torque converter w/some solvent so there is NO OIL anywhere.
step 3. apply this lube and let it dry. it goes on like spray paint and you need to let it dry. dont spray it on the parts of the sheaves that the belt touches. You only need to spray it on one mating surface, not both. So like where the hub is, you dont need to spray the moveable sheave, just the hub.

oil flings off and attracts dirt, teflon comes off, and graphite eventually comes off too. dry moly just sticks and stays a long time buy you gotta get the surface SUPER clean first. then it will be super slick and not oily. any sort of DRY MOLYBDENUM type of spay lubricant will work.

 

[Tpdingo]

OK, I went to the store and got some Blaster chain lube and Blaster Graphite dry lube. Let's go see how this works.

 

[mckutzy]

Are you completely disassembling and cleaning after each lubrication test? '
If not you are compromising the lubricating abilities of each other....

 

[Tpdingo]

Well I wasn't going to test each one.i was just putting the new stuff in and yes I made sure to clean everything with brake clean. And let it dry, then put on the new stuff and let it dry.

Much more punchy and responsive. I can actually hear the motor being underload and acceleration is much better.