Need a little wiring help

[Panhead5496]

Hey guys! Haven't been too active here lately between the weather and life, but with spring coming it's time to get the "toys" up and going.

Anyway, first on my to-do list is lights for my dads Baja. I have a headlight, a taillight, and side lights to put on it. I plan to run them off a small battery I'll mount in the "gas tank". Probably a 9.x volt NiMh battery, since I have a ton of them.

The part that is tripping me up is how to wire in the on/off switch, this one here: https://www.banggood.com/12V-Heavy-...Waterproof-Cover-p-1183684.html?rmmds=myorder

So I'll mount the lights, and then bring the wires to a central location and crimp the "+" and "-" wires together for all the lights. This way I'll basically have 1 "+" wire and 1 "-" wire to deal with (does this make sense...?)


I am not sure where the battery plug comes in with all this, as I want to be able to unplug the battery to change it, and still be able to turn it on/off with the switch. I thought about just doing it where I plug the battery in to turn them on and unplug to turn off, but the switch seems like a easier way, and much faster.

If I need to draw a picture to explain I can! Sorry if this was confusing. Thanks guys

 

[TT540]

The combining of wires you are doing is called a parallel circuit and you explained it well and are on the right path.

For the switch, you can connect that (-) negative line directly to the battery. For the positive, you will have a switch inline for that. The type of switch you linked to is called a SPST toggle. Just snip the (+) wire and insert switch like putting a link in a chain.

For the battery connection you can use a set of male and female spade connectors. Like what connects to a speaker. What are the battery terminals?

Some tips:
1) use a fuse as close to the battery + terminal as possible. If using LED lights then a 10 amp Wil wlrk.
2) if you do have a quick disconnect to remove and swap the battery, consider inverting the genders of the wires that lead off of it. This so you do not install a battery backwards.

To find a source for a quick disconnect battery connector try and look for an RC battery connector. As in remote control car.

 

[Panhead5496]

Awesome! Thanks for the info!

I have lights like these

https://www.ebay.com/itm/30X-Amber-...ash=item5b4134c910:g:XsAAAOSwICpaHmWQ&vxp=mtr
And these https://www.banggood.com/Pair-10V-8...p-1112657.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN

I have tons of RC connectors (my other hobby) so was planning on that

About fusing...is it that crucial? I am running lights on my gocart with no fuse and they are fine...should I get one? It has no switch, just plugged into batteries.

Back to this project, I found this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mn9G1wBGaIQ

Basically just follow what she does, or would that be different than my project?

Last thing, what about a ground? Have seen them some places, but the above video I don't think one is used as far as I can tell.

 

[TT540]

That video is good. Her switch actually has spade terminal (flat like a flat tip screwdriver). Your switch has screw terminals that will require a ring terminal to attach. Ring terminals are tricky in that they come in a crap ton of options for inner diameter and outer diameter as well as wire diameter. Spade terminals are simpler.

You do not need a fuse just like you do not need a seat belt. You decide. It's more of a moral delimma than a technical one.

For the GROUND question, it is best if you just run the extra 4 feet of wire and have a dedicated ground wire as opposed to using the karts metal chassis as ground. When you use the chassis you will have to use a bolt/screw head and a ring terminal. Then you have to worry about rust, corrosion, frame continuity (bolted segments versus welds versus continuous tubing). For the extra 4 feet of wire, save your self the trouble and future trouble shooting.

Now for the bad news. You want to use a 9 volt battery. The lights you want to buy are 12 volt LED. They will either be dim, or not turn on at all! LEDs are not incandecent bulbs that will operate dimmer and dimmer until the battery is dead. the front light you chose state an operating voltage range of 10v to 85 volts. You wknt blow them up, but you could simply never turn them on.
This problem gets worse as the battery dies. Meaning they may turn on dimly for 30 minutes , then the battery drops to 8 volts then the lights turn off.

Email the seller and ask if they work from 7 volts or not.

Or, just use a 12 volt battery from a computer backup power supply. They are called SLA and come in lots of sizes (bigger will last longer). Also, they can bounce around and be installed upside down even with so ties.

Link here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00N...rds=12v7ah&dpPl=1&dpID=41E2eywh+BL&ref=plSrch

And you can recharge them with a trickle charger for a car or boat battery usually overnight.

 

[Panhead5496]

Gotcha. I will take the switch to the hardware store and find the right size ring.

I will look into the fuse thing... not sure yet.

As for the ground, there doesn't seem to be a place on the switch to connect one. What did the woman in the video use as a ground?

I have a ton of other batteries to use I have some 14.8v ones (4s lipo) that should be perfect instead! (I have a SLA battery from my go cart, but it is too big for the Baja minibike)

I think I got it now. Waiting for all the lights to get here and then I'll start wiring

 

[tinamcjittles]

You said you're into RC, you could very easily use XT60 connectors! I love those things, which is why they infest all my projects lolol

 

[TT540]

The switch only serves to complete the positive wire.

The ground can stay connected at all times. No juice flows until that switch closes the circuit.

 

[Panhead5496]

You said you're into RC, you could very easily use XT60 connectors! I love those things, which is why they infest all my projects lolol

Oh yes, I have tons of connectors to choose from...deans, ec3, ec5, xt60, xt30, JST, Tamiya, mini Tamiya...you get the idea I'm thinking Deans, I don't use them for RC stuff so have lots of extras. ec5 are my all time fav, but overkill for this project

The switch only serves to complete the positive wire.

The ground can stay connected at all times. No juice flows until that switch closes the circuit.

Hmmm. My switch only has 2 spots to connect wires, so where would the ground go?

 

[TT540]

I feel like I am being trolled here.

Minus sign = negative = ground = black wires = all go to the battery minus terminal. Period. Just do that.

 

[Panhead5496]

I feel like I am being trolled here.

Minus sign = negative = ground = black wires = all go to the battery minus terminal. Period. Just do that.

Sorry man, I promise I'm not trolling, just don't want to blow it up

The headlights came in the mail, and taillights were alreadu here. Just got them all mounted on the Baja. A mess of wires but the are all on.

About to go get the switch hooked up. thanks for the help so far!!

 

[Panhead5496]

Thanks to everyone's help, I got it all hooked up and it works great!

I'll try to get some pics tonight

 

[TT540]

Woot. Now you can park next to the 18 wheelers with all your running lights on.

 

[Panhead5496]

Thanks for all the help everyone. I finally got how to do it. Did my Baja, dad's Baja, and my go cart with a switch. They work well and can't wait for some night rides

 

[tinamcjittles]

Thanks for all the help everyone. I finally got how to do it. Did my Baja, dad's Baja, and my go cart with a switch. They work well and can't wait for some night rides

Once you get that down, the rest of electronics starts to make more sense really!
Throw up some pics of the lights at night!

 

[Panhead5496]

Once you get that down, the rest of electronics starts to make more sense really!
Throw up some pics of the lights at night!

Yes it is! And I will get some pics this weekend for sure!

 

[Panhead5496]

After a very long delay, here are some pics. First is with lights off, then lights on. They work awesome