Mega moto 212

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Revwhop

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Purchased a mega moto 212 bike on eBay as a "parts not working". It has front suspension and tc and The disc brakes are sweet. Only problem I have found was one jackshaft bearing exploded. I replaced both of them seems to be alright. The bearings that came it with are trash. The Other was gritty and rough feeling. Thought those that have one of these bike might like to know.and I'd probably upgrade them if I was y'all.
I also removed their speed reducing ring on the TC. That seems like stupid belt eating part. My dad has the Walmart version of this bike so I knew even if it was just parts bike it was worth the buy. But as it stands now I think I got good deal. No performance work I'm 200# am nearly hit 45. I may have found new ride depending on off-road abilities. Now I need to find out if any know of a header pipe that will fit these 212s nicely.
 

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vpd66

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Do you have the bearing number? I have a Monster Moto MM-B212 and want to upgrade my bearings.
 

kevbo22

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Here is how it looks on the bike. Like I said I did have to slice it and weld in a 1" section. Eventually i'll get the old bender out and make one, but for now, this works and looks pretty dang good too.
 

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vpd66

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Did you reset the carb? I can see an aftermarket air filter on the other side. Mine has a sealed carb so i'll have to put on an adjustable one on. What other mods have you done? Did they make a big difference?
 

Revwhop

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Yes they are 6003 bearings. Kevbo22 how do you not burn your self. Doesn't look like much room between feet peg and yee old hot pipe. If it went towards rear first and then came down like it does behind TC cover. It would be perfect. How do you get TC cover off
 

kevbo22

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Ya thats not the stock engine, thats a slightly built up 212 from harbor freight. billet rod, flywheel, mod 2 cam, 18lb springs. Ya it makes a difference. reset the carb? as in different jet and emulsion tube? ya

It is pretty close to my leg, thats why I will eventually bend my own. Thats the only one I could find that was close to fitting. But I always ride with jeans, and I do have just enough room to never burn myself. So I am riding with it for now.

If you can find a different exhaust that will fit it, I say go with that. I just couldnt find anything that would.
 

vpd66

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I didn't know you swapped the engine, thought it was the stock one. Mine has the sealed EPA carb that has a non changeable main jet and the external mixture screw is plugged and non adjustable. I plan on putting an adjustable carb on with a better air filter and getting the builders exhaust kit and making my own header. I'm going to try and snake it inside the frame. My plan is to notch or cut a hole in the fender and try to keep it under the seat.

Revwhop, thanks for the bearing number. I'll keep an eye on mine. I've only had this mini bike for 6 days and only have one tank of gas run though it. I'll be collecting parts for a stage 1 upgrade but I'm going to wait for my 90 warranty to expire before any modifications. So far it runs good and has pretty good power. I'm looking for a little more low end/ mid rage out of it. Where I ride is mostly tight trails through the woods.
 

Revwhop

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Vpd66 if you take clutch belt and drive chain loose spin and check for slack and gritty feel in the jackshaft. I'm going to replace bearings in wheels as well.
You can also remove the non removable jet with torx t15 bit lightly tapped in and unscrew it. It was screwed in but doesn't have tabs to let you back it out. It's not in tight. I was thinking of doing my own exhaust as well. Nothing seems like it would work with out effort that's may as well be put in to one as I wanted.
Slightly longer fork tube would be a game changer on this bike.
 

Revwhop

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I lowered and moved the rear fender back. This was done to possibly allow room for exhaust. And make space for air filter. It is still quite stiff without the top bolts just the sides.

I have a piece of 7/8 aluminum tube I’m using to mock up the path. I have decent route up high under seat. Which would require head shield under seat. It needs one now with stock configuration. This way would offer more protection in layover than lower route. Turned down I can still use rack to shift bike without burning hand.

Lower pathway is out of way just concerned about laying on side an messing up stuff I’m not only rider. In each picture the end of tube is where end of muffler will end up once it’s installed
 

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vpd66

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Revwhop, I didn't know you could remove the fixed jet. Can the mixture screw be converted to an adjustable one? Actually for less then $20 I can buy a new carb that is adjustable. I will have to check my jackshaft bearings. Today I spent some time adjusting the throttle. I don't like the feel of the twist grip. It seemed like it had too much slack in it. I tighten it up and it is better. It doesn't return all the way to idle when I rev it with the twist grip. if I rev the motor with the lever by the carb it returns to idle. It looks like the very small return spring needs more tension. I'll have to pull the air filter off and see what I can do to fix it.
I definitely want to keep the exhaust inside the frame. Where I ride the trails are tight and lots of objects to bounce off of. I also am thinking of moving the foot pegs forward and up on the frame. Twice I had the foot pegs dig in on the trails I ride while taking a corner.
 

vpd66

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I took the drive clutch a part this morning to remove the speed limiting ring and see how it looks. This is what I found! It looks like the factory lubed it with grease. I cleaned it real good and lubed it with Tri-flow. Took it for a ride and the clutch worked much smoother. I didn't't really noticed any performance improvement in the low/midrange but now it really winds out on the top end. Next I plan on disassembling the driven clutch and moving the spring one hole over to give it more tension.
I'm still not happy with the way the twist throttle works. It still does not return all the way to idle. I'm going to have to disassemble it and see if I can improve it. It seems like it needs a little stiffer return spring.
 

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Revwhop

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Mine didn’t have that much grease but it was there. What does moving the spring,gaining tension on driven do. I’m not fan of stock throttle set up either.
 

vpd66

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Putting more preload on the driven spring makes it stay in a lower gear longer before it shifts. It gives you more low end/midrange torque better hill climbing and trail riding.
 

vpd66

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So this morning I disassembled the driven clutch and moved the spring to give it more tension. This made the bike a lot more snappy in the midrange while trail riding. It still seems to take off the same and it winds out the same but seems to take a little more distance to get fully into high gear. Its great when trail riding. Now when I see a small mound I can snap the throttle and lift the front wheel. Also I noticed when I hit some soft spots it seemed like I could spin the rear tire easier.
After that I shut it off and changed the factory spark plug to an E3 plug. It seems to start easier now and I've gained 50-75 rpm at idle just changing the spark plug.
So far I'm loving this Mini Bike. Its almost more then a Mini Bike and more like a small dirt bike. Still need to figure out a better twist throttle. I started another post about that.
 

Revwhop

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I’m with you on the throttle. I’ll be remembering the spring. Gonna put some hours on it this weekend. See what’s needed after that.
 
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