have a on off switch , how to connect?

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ilove2fix

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hi guys i have a on off switch and want to connect it someway so i can turn on and off the system . its a 24v system i also have a throttle that has a key switch but the way you guys told me to wire it , system stays on even if keys removed or turned off, id rather fox that because its already there and looks nicer ?
 

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hi guys i have a on off switch and want to connect it someway so i can turn on and off the system . its a 24v system i also have a throttle that has a key switch but the way you guys told me to wire it , system stays on even if keys removed or turned off, id rather fox that because its already there and looks nicer ?

Standard procedure is to connect (1) side of the switch to (1) side of your "power" lock plug
…& connect the other side of your switch to the other side of your "power" lock plug.

When the switch is "on" (making contact) your system should be on
...when switched "off" (not making contact) your system should be off :thumbsup:

Try your other switch to double check that your system is functioning properly
...because the (2) extra wires on your throttle (when connected this way) should do the same thing. :cheers2:

IIRC when I tested this type throttle, the key switch functioned as expected
(switched the attached circuit on & off)
...but, the meter stayed on. (even when the key was off)

I wasn't impressed with this design because, unless there was a main cut-off switch (& it was used)
...just powering that little meter would be a small but, constant "parasitic" draw on the battery pack. :ack2:
 

ilove2fix

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on the other thread u said the 5 wires on the twist throttle 3 are neg pos and signal and the other 2 are supposed to be for the key lock , blue and yellow, i put them to the blue yellow " power lock" plug but unit didnt work UNTIL i touched the wires together and it worked BUT the unit stays on even if u turn the key to the off pos, so how do i
get it to work properly ? i didnt understand how u said to fix it on the other thread
 

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Gonna need pics. :thumbsup:
...motor, controller, throttle, connections etc.

Maybe these will help:
...first pic is a rough diagram of a 24V set up.
...second pic is of the two circuits (throttle & on/off)
...third is a simple switch connected to the on/off "power lock" plug.

* It seems like none of these Chinese manufacturers use the same color wires for much of anything.
...even on different batches of the same controllers

(So, we can NEVER just go by the wire colors)

** The only exception seems to be, red wires usually = positive (+)
...& black wires usually = negative (-) :cheers2:
 

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ilove2fix

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in that 2nd pic the lines of the lock go to something in the middle, then continue to the controller ? what is that? and if i do connect the wires directly the whole throttle doesnt work, and if i touch the 2 wires together of the lock switch then the throttle works? lol maybe the blue of the lock and the green of the throttle are mixed up?


chemical symbol aluminum
 

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That represents the junction where the white connector plugs connect. :thumbsup:
...theirs one in every circuit

They are called Namz connectors
...just learned the "technical term" for 'um :2guns:
 

ilove2fix

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lol yeah i figured out its the plastic connectors, so what do u think is my issue? i dont want to switch those wires and short something out
 

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lol yeah i figured out its the plastic connectors, so what do u think is my issue? i dont want to switch those wires and short something out

Lets do a test:
Only connect your motor, throttle (3-wires only NOT the switch wires) & battery pack (always connect the battery pack last)

Then, use a "jumper wire" (a short piece of wire, bared on both ends) to connect the (2) wires of the "electric" lock plug, coming off of your speed controller.

When the (2) wires of the "electric" lock plug are connected, you are completing the circuit (same as a switch would do) & the speed controller should be "turned" on. :thumbsup:
(throttle functions to spin the motor etc.)

When you remove the "jumper wire" you disconnect & break the circuit & everything should be "turned" off.

If this test is successful, connect a switch to where the "jump wire" was attached & see if it functions the same.
...if not, it's probably a defective switch :ack2:
 
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