Good Moderate Cam Upgrade For Predator 212

[OneTimeUser]

First, the search function has stopped working for me. I know cams have been discussed, but I can't search on it.

Can anyone recommend a good all-around moderate cam for a Predator 212 with free flow exhaust, no governor, and a 24mm Nibbi carb? The engine is on an American Sports Work Hornet with a series 30 clutch. I have not ported or polished the head, but intend to when I take it apart next.

I'm interested in both brand and specs.

I know very close to nothing about cam specs. I read them, but they don't mean much to me.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Edwin Spangler]

You want more low end torque, midrange power or high RPM power?

Actually, you dont want to do that unless youve upgraded the flywheel and rod first.

Maybe the DynoCams CL2. Thats made for lower end power. Even without upgrading the flywheel that cam might work but the rod, idk, thats going to take a beating...

 

[OneTimeUser]

Thanks, I guess I'll up grade the rod long as i's in there. I studied up quite a bit on "exploding" flywheels and am not worried.

I'm looking for a mild/moderate cam that does not involve changing pushrods or piston or head modifications for clearance.

Plus, next project is going to be electric start so I'll probably end up with a flywheel with pretty standard specs. The hightec flywheels with teeth for electric start are very pricey.

I think I'll blow up an engine or two before I start worrying about the legendary flywheel grenade.

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

In my opinion.
The stock cam will have the most bottom end torque, and has a lobe separation that idles well.

I'd would suggest a billet rod above all else.

My builds have been rod, and head work.
Keep the stock spring and they will be the rev limiter at 5500 or so.

If you can get the head decked for more compression and port match to your carb and exhaust you will have the largest power gain for the least cash. Add a few degrees of timing with a offset key.

Now a cam will make more power, but it happens at the top end. Then you will need the heavy springs to combat that higher rpm. A lighter flywheel spins up easier.

As in all racing, how fast is your wallet.

 

[OneTimeUser]

Thanks. This sounds like a good plan.

Any advice on electric starter kits?

 

[panchothedog]

If you're looking for more power without the governor it's going to be found in the upper rpm range. Billet rod and flywheel are a must ( in my opinion.) Not just for safety, but when one comes apart from revving too high, it usually destroys a lot of parts. So if you want to build an engine for more power, then build one that will last. Most of the cams have a rpm range in the advertising. Is your engine a hemi, or a non hemi ? A non hemi allows for a lot more leeway in piston to valve clearance. A cheap upgrade for increased compression ( on the non hemi ) is a flat top piston. The stock piston is dished. Most 212 predators ( I've owned 7 ) that aren't equipped with electric starting, do not have the boss ( the space in the casting) into where you would bolt the starter.
Spend your money on horsepower and reliability, and pull start the thing. I'm 78 years old and have had heart trouble. I still hand start my small blocks.

 

[Hellion]

Any advice on electric starter kits?

Partsguy found this setup, sure to be making the rounds soon to Amazon and all the regular vendors, Go Powersports even. Just not crazy about the battery jutting out there.
Easy start generator Lithium battery starter

Whoops, Pancho said the right thing. The pull start’ll make a man outta you.