electronic shift?

Status
Not open for further replies.

fowler

New member
Messages
5,463
Reaction score
18
Location
Bullsbrook West Aus
that is a good idea

leave the neutral switch out of the picture till its in first then hit a botton on the dash so it can cut out the servo

the neutral switch works in theory but to get it into neutral
it must go slightly past it then slide back into it
 

r97

Measure twice cut once
Messages
3,793
Reaction score
8
Location
Massachusetts, USA
IMO, electronic, pneumatic, or hydraulic shift is just over complicating things. Get a morse push/pull cable with 1/4" or 6mm end fittings. This is a setup that is widely used as a strong and reliable shift linkage in buggies. If you are really concerned about getting debris in the housing, then you can do as toystory suggested and buy/make bellows for the ends.
 

racer13

New member
Messages
16
Reaction score
0
I don't know what kind of budget you have, but here is a very nice race proven setup. 100% electronic with 1 moving part. Also provides no lift/no clutch upshifts with auto blip/clutch-less downshifts http://www.flatshifter.com/flat-shifter-max/

Many guys that race bike engine cars (road track) also use air solenoids with electronically activate pressure release/ bleed off valves. If you use compressed nitrogen vs standard compressed air you may not need to haul around a compressor.

In all honesty a morse push/pull cable is going to be the easiest/cheapest option in the end. It can be made reliable in a high dust environment by using a rubber boot zip tied to the base of the rod end and the cable housing.
 

landuse

Moderator
Staff member
Messages
18,781
Reaction score
568
Location
Pietermaritzburg, South Africa
I don't know what kind of budget you have, but here is a very nice race proven setup. 100% electronic with 1 moving part. Also provides no lift/no clutch upshifts with auto blip/clutch-less downshifts http://www.flatshifter.com/flat-shifter-max/

Many guys that race bike engine cars (road track) also use air solenoids with electronically activate pressure release/ bleed off valves. If you use compressed nitrogen vs standard compressed air you may not need to haul around a compressor.

In all honesty a morse push/pull cable is going to be the easiest/cheapest option in the end. It can be made reliable in a high dust environment by using a rubber boot zip tied to the base of the rod end and the cable housing.

That is a neat looking concept
 

racer13

New member
Messages
16
Reaction score
0
This kit costs roughly $800, a little pricy but its almost all plug and play.

If carrying the compressor is alright then air shift could be doable. Im not quite sure how you would deal with the neutral issue though. Also i dont know how well a compressor and air system would fair in a high dust environment.
 

greengoblin

New member
Messages
48
Reaction score
0
Location
toronto
If you need to find neutral with a piston system, the simplest way would be to retain your manual shifter, and make a stopper that prevents it from shifting fully into 1st like so

 

Jackman

New member
Messages
1
Reaction score
0
just reading this and a couple of things came to mind; first one was if you could get a giant servo motor like off a r/c car and control it just like on the r/c remote it would allow you to move slowly or quickly and be able to find neutral. second one would be using solenoids (could probly nick them off a starter motor) maybe could set one up that sat on the middle of its throw in between gears and change up/down when you applied polarity one way or the other and then have a second one for neutral, so you shift down to first with the changer solenoid and then the neutral solenoid's throw pushes the shifter into neutral. this would be pretty easy to control with a paddle shift and a "neutral button"
I kinda like the second idea, it makes me want to try and set it up haha
btw I'm new here and don't really know how old is too old with bumping threads etc. so if I'm doing anything wrong...
 

Doc Sprocket

*********
Messages
15,677
Reaction score
151
Location
Ontario, Canada
No worries, Jackman! Welcome to the forum. Dredging up an old thread is kinda frowned upon when it's done with no real validity. You, howver, have offered up some fresh ideas that may yet prove helpful.
 

fowler

New member
Messages
5,463
Reaction score
18
Location
Bullsbrook West Aus
Forgot about this

An r/c servo was what I wanted but I can't find many chioces
Any I did find were very highly priced

A soliniod is an interesting idea
I may have to look further into it
 

moron88

New member
Messages
13
Reaction score
0
Location
kalamazoo, michigan
i know a bit about rc, been in the hobby for 5 years now. servos can be had for $10 all the way up to $200 and beyond, it all depends on your needs. i'd imagine a bit of torque would be needed, but how much is beyond me. i would imagine you would also want some speed. the fastest servo i know of throws 60 degrees in .032 seconds when powered by 7.4 volts (nominal 2 cell lithium polymer battery voltage), but has less than 100 inch-ounces of torque. there is one that has 277oz-in that throws 60 degrees in .6 seconds but it'll set you back $125 http://www.amainhobbies.com/product...ushless-Steel-Gear-Digital-Servo-High-Voltage

if you want more torque and a generally bigger servo, there are 1/5 scale servos like this http://www.amainhobbies.com/product...eel-Gear-Digital-1-5-Scale-Servo-High-Voltage

if you have an idea of how fast and strong it needs to be i could hunt down the cheapest options from reputable brands for you. this thread really hasnt help me with the urge to strap 3 servos to my gokart and make it an rc...
 

Doc Sprocket

*********
Messages
15,677
Reaction score
151
Location
Ontario, Canada
Are you kidding? I got the same problem, and I am WELL beyond my teens! ;) Now- where was I? Oh, yeah- DO IT! DO IT! DO IT!..... Muahahahahahahaaaa!:stir:
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top