Carter Super Wheels Refurb

newoldkart

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This is my first go-kart. I bought it it was just a bunch of pieces. But the brake was set up like this. Doesn't seem like it's going to stop very well. It's only grabbing about 50% of the drum. The stud is at the 11:00 position and the rod grabs at the 6:00 position. Has anyone ever seen this setup?
 

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Functional Artist

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Nope, that does NOT look correct :huh:

Rather than type a bunch...

Here is a good demo video :thumbsup:
...made by Kart Fab a fellow DIYGK forum member
...that shows & describes how a brake band, on a go kart, should function :cheers2:
 

Hellion

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While the rod is pulling the band from the wrong orientation (should pull from over the top), it's also possible your brake band could be too small for the diameter of the drum. There's usually more "wrap around" on the drum, leaving less drum exposed. Brake bands (and drums) come in different sizes and maybe your "parts kart" has a mish-mash of unrelated kart parts.

Maybe you can take the sprocket/hub/drum assembly off and leave the brake band in place, take photos, so we can make sure your kart wasn't Bubbafied (ghetto rigged) by the previous owner.

 

newoldkart

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I'm thinking I might slide the motor back. It's pretty far forward
 

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Hellion

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I'm thinking I might slide the motor back. It's pretty far forward
Try to put the engine fully forward or fully back as the slots in the mount and/or the engine position is used to adjust the chain slack tension. You want the most adjustment available to you as the chain starts wearing-in. When you get a new chain (or old), ensure that it is the shortest possible length and you measure it out when you have the engine closest to the sprocket. If that makes sense.

That looks like a Carter Brothers kart. What you have there is an intact 4 leaf /4 lobe “clover hub” that holds the sprocket, wheel and drum together. That’s an unobtanium part and many Carter owners join the forum just to see if anyone has one for sale. I‘d chase the threads in it with a tap, clean them out and use that good old anti-seize to reassemble it. Go karts lead a rough life, most are left outside and steel and aluminum don’t play well together when moisture is present--galvanic corrosion starts where steel and aluminum sort of corrode together….
 
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Hellion

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Hey man, your kart really got me to thinking. The peg for your band brake looked factory OEM but it was strange, so I went snooping around on the forum.

Found pics of member Dwoody's kart, it’s a Carter Brothers kart, like yours (might be an identical model).

Check the photos in the thread and in posts #13 and #19 in particular. I'll just caption the photos here: the brake rod is bent or configured to go under and around the factory peg and it pulls from the rear side of the drum. You'll see how to detach the band from the peg, rotate the band clockwise and reattach it using the hole on the other end.

 
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newoldkart

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Dude. Thank you

That thread cleared it all up.
I was thinking it was a stock setup and that my brake pad was too short. I ordered a 4.5 inch so we will see if that fits better.
Real shame I don't have the stock brake rod-it's a real annoying setup with all the bends. I still might move the post if I can't get it working right.

I bought this frame for a hundred bucks. It had a predator ghost on it. Also has the accessory kit which includes the carb and header and muffler.
Runs good.

Had No seat no gas tank.

Hard to find an air filter for the ghost. Same as the briggs animal and the decent looking air filters are $$$$$.
 

Edwin Spangler

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Dude. Thank you

That thread cleared it all up.
I was thinking it was a stock setup and that my brake pad was too short. I ordered a 4.5 inch so we will see if that fits better.
Real shame I don't have the stock brake rod-it's a real annoying setup with all the bends. I still might move the post if I can't get it working right.

I bought this frame for a hundred bucks. It had a predator ghost on it. Also has the accessory kit which includes the carb and header and muffler.
Runs good.

Had No seat no gas tank.

Hard to find an air filter for the ghost. Same as the briggs animal and the decent looking air filters are $$$$$.
Nibbi makes them for all sizes.
 

Hellion

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I bought this frame for a hundred bucks. It had a predator ghost on it

That’s an insane deal with a motor and that KIND of motor. 😳 Got pics of the whole thing or a pic of the craigslist/FB Marketplace ad?

It’s a very good deal if it’s a motor-less rolling frame with basically everything intact except a vinyl seat cushion (usually missing or severely tattered) and with four (usually dry rotted) tires. A Benjamin is about the going rate for that.
 

newoldkart

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Just picked up this yellow one today for 100. Pretty sure it's a gk110. Wiring is a mess.
 

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newoldkart

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Well that sucks. I just received a 4.5 inch brake band today and now I see that it calls for a 5 inch.

I put the four and a half inch on and it fit but I think the five will make the setup easier.
You've been a lot of help. Thank you
 

Hellion

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…and now I see that it calls for a 5 inch.

The size of the brake band and drum are not listed on that manual, sadly. You must have gone the extra mile and put G428 brake drum (or G449 brake band) in your search engine. I just did and it yielded fruit:

https://www.gopowersports.com/5-carter-brake-drum/
Their product descriptions are helpful:
“Brake drum for Carter go-karts actually measures 4 3/4" diameter. Used with G449 brake band.”
“Carter 5" brake band used with drum #G428”. After learning the proper sizes I’d probably seek that stuff for a better price somewhere else. :cornut:

You described it as a “bunch of pieces” kart. Based on that, some would assume the pieces were not original to the kart and they would do the same thing you did even if it ended up wrong. Since return shipping isn’t cheap, maybe keep the 4.5 band and use it on another project?

If only I was quicker on the kart’s ID and sharing that manual. But I volunteered it, you didn’t ask for it. 🤷‍♂️

How’s the axle bearings?
 

newoldkart

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I should have posted pics of the whole kart in my first post.

The only thing wrong that I've found so far was brake. Bunch of stuff missing.

The axle bearings spin, but they probably should be replaced. I'm assuming they are just a regular old sealed bearing from the looks of them but I have not yet investigated the part number.
 

Hellion

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If they are in any way growly or noisy, you can replace or repack. They are common, off the shelf bearings.

To repack them, you just pry up the rubber seals (hardly a seal, more like a dirt shield) taking care not to damage it and smear some bearing grease in there and replace the seal or just replace the whole bearing.

I think repacking them could be done on the regular to extend the life of them, especially with the rear axle bearings. They might be more of a hassle to replace due to the way they are installed. You might need some kind of special tool or a slide hammer with a J hook on the end. The other alternative is a hammer and a looong thin rod (like a pin punch) that you can use to drive the bearings out from the other side.
 
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