As red as a sea of cooked shrimp! [prawns]

[J_Walker]

So I'm a huge rattle can user guy, dude.. I've only recently mastered a few brands. and what mixes and looks good together, and such. lots of time "people" will say "NO DON'T MIX SPRAY CAN PAINTS BETWEEN COMPANY'S" and I questioned "WHY NOT!?" comes to find out, most modern spray paint really doesn't react badly with other paints. of course there's some general rules but for the most part. its pretty safe to cross mix brands.

here's what I did today below. Its a mix between Rustoleum, Krylon, and Duplicolor.

First I started with rustoleum primer [white] [its all I had on hand] did two light coats [its a test piece]

Then followed by 1 semi heavy coat of rustoleum MATTE white paint [the matte is VERY important, don't get glossy.]

after that one light coat of Krylons acrylic glossy clear. [to obtain a shinny undercoat sorta]

after that I did semi heavy coat of Duplicolor metal cast anodized red.

A few notes real quick about the metal cast paint, the top layer dries before the bottom layer, so kind of like a scab. hard on the top, soft under. I accidentally pressed my finger print into it after "thinking" it was dry because I ran my finger across it first and it didn't smear, then when I grabbed it, it made an impression. Also when this stuff sprays, you have to be VERY careful on the way you spray it, it gets very heavy, very quickly, and super hard to blend.. EVEN PASSES for sure!

after it was all said and done, I hit with a light, then heavy coat of krylons acrylic clear..


this duplicolor metal cast is good for not only that anodized look. [soda can below.] but with a good setup and the right amount of know how, you can make some good candy colors with it too! tomorrow im picking up some metallic to attempt a true candy look.

and that other "mirror" finish stuff so I can get that cool anodized finish on my badly scratched/oxidized forks.

Oh and the red matches almost perfectly!

edit; I just threw in a scanned image of the whole test piece.

 

[j.concepcion54321]

Looks good from here!! Ill probably use that same technique when it gets to be time to paint the rabbit. Im curious to see how the metallic candy look will come out

 

[Poboy kartman]

Looks good from here!! Ill probably use that same technique when it gets to be time to paint the rabbit. Im curious to see how the metallic candy look will come out

Errrr...No! I was a professional painter for quite a few years and no way can you pull that off with rattle cans on a car.....You can barely do solid colors masking off each panel...In the end- you will spend more on paint than buying a HF HVLP spray gun, a pawn shop compressor, watertrap, hose, thinner and canned paint together. .

And your results will look like a 5 year old got ahold of a spray can. ...

 

[J_Walker]

Errrr...No! I was a professional painter for quite a few years and no way can you pull that off with rattle cans on a car.....You can barely do solid colors masking off each panel...In the end- you will spend more on paint than buying a HF HVLP spray gun, a pawn shop compressor, watertrap, hose, thinner and canned paint together. .

And your results will look like a 5 year old got ahold of a spray can. ...

Yeah! what he said...!
seriously it would be easier to buy an HLPV gun [cheaper, eh disputable.] compressors run around 100+ dollars for like a really bad 5 gallon.. USED. I check the pawn shops all the time for 20+ gallon tanks+compressors can never find anything cheaply.. I'd go for a 20+ gallon [even that gets kind iffy on a larger car] Also a good hose, with a moisture catch might run ya a few hundred. plus if you wanna get a decent HLPV gun, might run you a 120+ or canned paint, and thinner is about the only thing that comes cheaply figuratively speaking. once you have all the supply's though, other jobs will soon pay off. I will get an HLPV gun when I need to do something larger then 25 bucks worth of decent spray paint could do. I haven't got to try the matalic yet.. I met this girl, and had a nice dinner. I don't think we're gonna see each other again, she was put off about me talking about my member ship on DIYgokarts.com [yeah right... that's it. ] needless to say, there goes 50 bucks I won't be getting back.. dunno why I even try. so I'm broke sorta kinda, atm.

I'll just leave these pictures here.... [this is only with half buttocks worth of sanding the forks too! got really lazy tbh]

1st with just the color.
2nd tacky clear.
3rd dry clear. [the clear coat dries SUPER fast.]

SHABAM!

PS: look at that sexy radiator!

 

[Poboy kartman]

Don't get me wrong- I'm a rattle can guy too. But when it comes to large surfaces like car panels.....well things just don't work anymore.

First off- let's just start with one quarter panel of a small car....: 2 cans of primer filler....3 cans of color...2 or 3 of clear ....7 or 8 × $7= 49-$56. Now 2 quarter panels= @$100 . Fenders take less so...lets just say $60 for both. Doors-$60, hood- $150-( and you'll never get it looking good) and trunk lid- $100.......So... $100+ $60+$60+$150+$100=$470....That doesn't include front or rear bumpers.....

But that's just part of the story- mixing your own paint allows you to compensate for climate. Most rattle cans dry so fast overspray is impossible to eliminate. .. ( or should I say dry spray-orange peel- whatever you want to call it).....Anyway-it actually causes you to use more paint- trying to get a wet coat and in the end...sometimes runs or dry spray that requires sanding and another coat.

So I'm not saying you can pick up a pawn shop compressor capable of shooting an entire car without running out of air- but they don't make rattle cans big enough to do that either. ...

Out of the two- though- I can tell you even as an ex-professional painter of both custom boat trailers and F-16 fighters....I stand a much better chance of pulling it off with crappy equipment than rattle cans. Karts and such...especially parts. ..I just go rattle cans because I can make them look just as good and the cost isn't that much more, and there's no gun to clean!

 

[J_Walker]

Don't get me wrong- I'm a rattle can guy too. But when it comes to large surfaces like car panels.....well things just don't work anymore.

First off- let's just start with one quarter panel of a small car....: 2 cans of primer filler....3 cans of color...2 or 3 of clear ....7 or 8 × $7= 49-$56. Now 2 quarter panels= @$100 . Fenders take less so...lets just say $60 for both. Doors-$60, hood- $150-( and you'll never get it looking good) and trunk lid- $100.......So... $100+ $60+$60+$150+$100=$470....That doesn't include front or rear bumpers.....

But that's just part of the story- mixing your own paint allows you to compensate for climate. Most rattle cans dry so fast overspray is impossible to eliminate. .. ( or should I say dry spray-orange peel- whatever you want to call it).....Anyway-it actually causes you to use more paint- trying to get a wet coat and in the end...sometimes runs or dry spray that requires sanding and another coat.

So I'm not saying you can pick up a pawn shop compressor capable of shooting an entire car without running out of air- but they don't make rattle cans big enough to do that either. ...

Out of the two- though- I can tell you even as an ex-professional painter of both custom boat trailers and F-16 fighters....I stand a much better chance of pulling it off with crappy equipment than rattle cans. Karts and such...especially parts. ..I just go rattle cans because I can make them look just as good and the cost isn't that much more, and there's no gun to clean!

what you think about those tankless blowers, how do those work anyway? I hear that even the really good ones only put out like 5-6 PSI, most only like 3-4PSI at the nozzle.. most HLPVs work at like 30-40PSI am I wrong? if not, how do these guns fare against an HLPV? and how can those company's justifiably being cost effective at almost 600$+ for their machines? lol

but for the rattle can subject, if it can't be done with a single can of each primer, color, and clear. its probably too big for a rattle can. kinda a good pointer, unless you have some good color matching skills, or got one of those cool paint shops that will mix you quality OEM paint colors and put them into the cans. [at almost 14 bucks a can!]

also like this metal-cast paint.. you can kind of tell, on my forks. IT sprays kinda patchy with the color consistency. its not as noticeable with the clear coat over it, helps to hide it a little. but for someone who knows paint, such as possibly you poboy. have a chance at it up close and looking through the paint. you can see how sketchy it came out.. but they look good from a distance, better then they did up close - so I think it came out alright.

also, not asking you to disclose any top secrete information..... but....... would you mind sharing the type of primer that is used on an F16? and weather or not it uses a clear coat.. and how often are they really painted?

 

[Poboy kartman]

Well first off.....I USED to be a professional painter. A lot has changed in the last 25 years.....F-16's were primed with a two part epoxy primer. Almost everything on them was anodized aluminum. Certain parts weren't primed but coated with PRC - (fuel tank coating). Everything else was topcoated with either epoxy or urethane- 2 or 3 part paints....

As far as repainting goes- I couldn't really tell you as I never worked flightline but I can tell you the way they were built and painted- you could have ditched one in saltwater and pulled it up 20 years later without any paint or corrosion problems. ... (excepting moving parts like hydraulic landing gear, ect...)

I have no idea what kind of paint delivery system you are talking about that runs off 3-5 psi......HVLP hadn't even been developed back in the day...however- there was electrostatic systems and that may be what you are talking about. ...

Anyway- what is good for the goose isn't always good for the gander- so what they primed F-16's with may not be the best primer for every instance. ....it's dang near bullet-proof but low build and non-sandable..

 

[J_Walker]

Well first off.....I USED to be a professional painter. A lot has changed in the last 25 years.....F-16's were primed with a two part epoxy primer. Almost everything on them was anodized aluminum. Certain parts weren't primed but coated with PRC - (fuel tank coating). Everything else was topcoated with either epoxy or urethane- 2 or 3 part paints....

As far as repainting goes- I couldn't really tell you as I never worked flightline but I can tell you the way they were built and painted- you could have ditched one in saltwater and pulled it up 20 years later without any paint or corrosion problems. ... (excepting moving parts like hydraulic landing gear, ect...)

I have no idea what kind of paint delivery system you are talking about that runs off 3-5 psi......HVLP hadn't even been developed back in the day...however- there was electrostatic systems and that may be what you are talking about. ...

Anyway- what is good for the goose isn't always good for the gander- so what they primed F-16's with may not be the best primer for every instance. ....it's dang near bullet-proof but low build and non-sandable..

Sounds like some good tough stuff for bottoms of off road karts.. is why I kinda asked. lol! I get tired of my kart bottoms rotting out because I don't wash off the dirt and grass.. and that stuff just holds water.

 

[Poboy kartman]

Sounds like some good tough stuff for bottoms of off road karts.. is why I kinda asked. lol! I get tired of my kart bottoms rotting out because I don't wash off the dirt and grass.. and that stuff just holds water.

Have you ever thought about truck bed liner or undercoating? Both available in rattlecans.....and cheaper than urethane. ....

As Phil Shifty might say: "It's like a lazy man in a can....."

 

[fowler]

i am in no way a professional painter

but when someone asked me to paint a dozer i thought sure ill give it a crack

with a few basic tips i set off with a 20lt spray pot turned it to max air and max paint with the widest spray pattern
turns out its harder than it looks lol

been getting better ever since just painting earth moving gear and working out how to get the settings right for each area on the machine

its no way an automotive finish but gets a nice gloss

but back on topic

if u want a nice fast thick paintjob we use enamel paint
gos ok but gets sun affected real quick

the two pack urethane with a hardener will never wear out on a cart
we paint it on bulldozers when we want a half decent paint job
its a bastard to get right
but after the machine gets back from a 6 months of hard work its still got paint on some of the underside and on the track frames

sounds rubbish that theres only some left
ut these areas are subject to extreme wear from sand and rock bashing and rubbing them for 24 hrs a day almost continuous for 6 months

 

[J_Walker]

lots of good painting information on this thread! Good work! I for one, don't like the glossy enamel paints out of cans, takes FOREVER to dry. I had a garage kept part in for over a year and it still hadn't fully cured, and it wasn't like heavy coats where slapped on it either. for me. If I have to use enamel it will always be matte, with an UV protect-non-yellowing acrylic clearcoat. always worked good enough for me.

also, ima give that truck bed liner a shot.. not like I see the bottom of the karts anyway.

there's a joke between friends around here, is if you want something sand blasted, just hang it under your car, and get it a week later.

also, I remember it was awhile back when I joined. people we're talking a lot about POR15. anyone who's used the stuff back then have any decent reviews? particularity as a liner in gastanks?

 

[Poboy kartman]

I personally have never used any POR15 products- but I have never heard a bad word against them and I did have a friend use some of their stuff and was very pleased. ..

You must have used some crappy enamel in the past. Rustoleum in the cans is fully dry in 24hrs and to the touch in only 2-4. That or you thinned it with something you shouldn't have.

 

[J_Walker]

I personally have never used any POR15 products- but I have never heard a bad word against them and I did have a friend use some of their stuff and was very pleased. ..

You must have used some crappy enamel in the past. Rustoleum in the cans is fully dry in 24hrs and to the touch in only 2-4. That or you thinned it with something you shouldn't have.

It was actually rustoleum, maybe it has a shelf life... and it was WAY past what it should of been.

Just curious about the POR15 and its possible uses in fiberglass boat gas tanks.. the ethanol in gasoline now. is destroying fiberglass gas tanks, wonder if POR15 could curb this destruction.

 

[landuse]

Bighead was a big proponant of POR15. He did a thread or two on how to use it. Dig out those threads and see what he had to say. It sounds like good stuff