Advice for my CT200U-EX

[Jamie P]

I bought a Coleman CT200U-EX a couple weeks ago. It started right up and idled nicely in the seller's driveway. I got it home, and now it idles with a vibration that is going to shake all the bolts loose. The vibration goes away when you give it some gas, but you can't sit on it while it idles. I could use it to shake paint cans, but I don't want to sit on the thing. I can't figure out how to attach a video. It would be helpful if I could figure that out...

Any idea where I should start looking for the problem?

I couldn't open it up at the seller's house, but once I got home I ran the bike as hard as it would go. What a disappointment. It might go 15 mph if I'm lucky, and it has no take off power whatsoever. I weigh 180 lb, so I thought it would do a little better. It's completely stock right now. Is this typical performance, or is something funky going on? Is there a cheap way to make it more fun? If not, I think I'll sell it, if I can make it run smoothly, and I'll look for something with some gusto.

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

You'll have to post the video on a file sharing site (YouTube for example) and link the video here. My 1st question would be: Are there any bolts loose, specifically the ones that hold the engine to the frame?

 

[Jamie P]

The bolts holding the engine on are tight, and nothing connected to the engine is loose.

 

[Denny]

Does it have a centrifugal clutch or a CVT?

 

[panchothedog]

Post a picture of the bike, especially the drive side. Even in stock form it should be capable of 25 mph. I have a Trail master 200, about the same size and weight as yours. With a built 196cc and geared low (strong acceleration) it tops out at
44 mph, and I weigh 215. With taller gearing I'm sure I could get more out of it. At 76 years old, 44 is plenty fast enough.

 

[Jamie P]

Denny, it has a centrifugal clutch with the gear-reducing jackshaft setup.

I attached a screen capture from the vibration video I took which shows some of the drivetrain. It's a stock setup. If I could get 25 mph I would be thrilled. I wish I had a "healthy" bike like it nearby to compare. I don't think my expectations are too high. The bike takes a while to get going. You want to encourage it along by pushing it like a scooter, and it tops out just about as fast as my eight-year-old kid rides her bicycle. Then when you stop it shakes your teeth out. It's not ideal!

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

Yeah, your gonna want to take that clutch off and replace it with a cvt.

 

[Jamie P]

View attachment 150846

Yeah, your gonna want to take that clutch off and replace it with a cvt.

Definitely. But first I need to resolve the vibration. I'm not putting any money into this bike the way it's shaking.

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

Take the chain off the clutch and run the engine. Is the vibs from the engine itself or from the drive train.

I'm not sure if there's a counter balance wheel in that engine but it could have been re assembled wrong.

 

[JimD]

I am a little bias towards a clutch but we do make them both and since you already have the jackshaft set up I would stick with the clutch but get rid of the china piece of $hit. That clutch never could take heat and the bushing is not an oilite. The heart of any clutch is the spring and the bushing and the china knock has no heart, just cheap junk. Since yours is an outboard mount it is easy to get lube to it and you do that when you are DONE riding for the day. You do it at the end of the day to give it all night to penetrate around the pins and rollers to get where it is needed. You oil the chain and put a few drops of oil where you see the snap ring on the end of the clutch, when the clutch is warm the bushing will suck in the oil like a sponge. Oils to avoid - anything that says anti-friction, any oil with Teflon in it or Silicone these are clutch and brake killers. TriFlow is a good internal oil but not for a chain or clutch bushing. For a clutch to work it needs friction and you never put oil in the six air holes in the drum. (I only mention that because people do it.)

Since your bike right now is stock give me the # of teeth on the sprocket the clutch goes to. Then give me the smaller sprocket on the jackshaft # of teeth, next the number of teeth on the axle sprocket and lastly give me the diameter of the tire from ground to the top of the tire. I will give you the speed the bike can go based on that set up. Then I will throw in some simple changes you can do to get more speed.

 

[Jamie P]

Take the chain off the clutch and run the engine. Is the vibs from the engine itself or from the drive train.

I'm not sure if there's a counter balance wheel in that engine but it could have been re assembled wrong.

I'll be traveling for Thanksgiving, but I'll try these things when I get back. Thanks guys

 

[Jamie P]

Here is an interesting twist to the story. I figured I'd post it just to close the loop on this thread.

I texted the seller and asked if he did any work on the engine. When I told him what was happening he insisted that I take all but $100 of my money back and keep the bike. That gives me more than enough to buy a Predator engine and a clutch for a 3/4" shaft.

So, there's no need to figure out the vibration and lack of power. Thanks for everyone's thoughts.

 

[Jamie P]

I am a little bias towards a clutch but we do make them both and since you already have the jackshaft set up I would stick with the clutch but get rid of the china piece of $hit. That clutch never could take heat and the bushing is not an oilite. The heart of any clutch is the spring and the bushing and the china knock has no heart, just cheap junk. Since yours is an outboard mount it is easy to get lube to it and you do that when you are DONE riding for the day. You do it at the end of the day to give it all night to penetrate around the pins and rollers to get where it is needed. You oil the chain and put a few drops of oil where you see the snap ring on the end of the clutch, when the clutch is warm the bushing will suck in the oil like a sponge. Oils to avoid - anything that says anti-friction, any oil with Teflon in it or Silicone these are clutch and brake killers. TriFlow is a good internal oil but not for a chain or clutch bushing. For a clutch to work it needs friction and you never put oil in the six air holes in the drum. (I only mention that because people do it.)

Since your bike right now is stock give me the # of teeth on the sprocket the clutch goes to. Then give me the smaller sprocket on the jackshaft # of teeth, next the number of teeth on the axle sprocket and lastly give me the diameter of the tire from ground to the top of the tire. I will give you the speed the bike can go based on that set up. Then I will throw in some simple changes you can do to get more speed.

What type of oil do you use on the chain and end of the clutch?

 

[JimD]

Any straight 30 weight oil for both and you oil the chain and the sprocket bushing when you are done riding for the day while the engine is still warm. Stay away from any oil that has Teflon or silicone in it.