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No problem. I just wish my build thread hadn't been mostly wiped out in the big December crash. I had a lot of time in that thread, and there was lots of great input on the build from many members of this site. Keep it up. It's a tough build, but worth the while. I learned an awful lot...

That should work fine. In fact, you almost need to go with the 10" rims. The king pin and spindle steering arm don't clear the 8" rim if you use cone spacers above and below the heim joints at the end of the a-arms. On my build, I had to spend some time with an angle grinder to make the king...

I don't see why that wouldn't work, but it seems like more trouble than it's worth. The 5/8" heims weren't that expensive. If it were me, I would just buy the 5/8" heim joints instead of going to all that trouble to machine bushings, unless you're just looking for a lathe project.

I haven't driven it yet, but just sitting in it I think the 10" of extra length is about perfect. I'm 6'-0" tall. 34" inseam.

I think they came from a small ATV, I want to say 70cc or thereabouts. Obviously something much lighter than my kart with me in it!

Don't know yet. I'm thinking expanded metal around the pedals, just to have a place for the heels to rest. I'm playing that one by ear, so we'll see!

With the yellow shocks, the front suspension settles to where the a-arms are about level with the ground. The rear swingarm is also about level with the ground. It feels like the slightest bump would bottom the shocks out at all corners. And it's SPRINGY! It feels like there's no damping at...

I'll post a video, if for no other reason than just to have a second Arachnid video on the internet! I've looked around, and the only video I've been able to find is the one from Spidercarts' site.

It should clear. The roll bar is raked back 10 degrees, so it shouldn't interfere with the seat.

Also, I figured out that my new "beefier" pretty yellow shocks are trash. After getting them installed, I noticed that they were very springy and compressed a lot under my weight when sitting in the seat. I really haven't felt comfortable with them since I installed them. Just for grins, I...

Got engine mount welded up today, engine installed, torque converter installed, and sprockets and chain set up. Started the engine for the first time, cranked right up on the first pull. It has an electric starter, so I need to get a battery and wire it up with a switch. I also need to add a...

Well... looks like I lost about 75% of my build thread in the server meltdown :mad2:. If anyone is interested, I did find it cached through Google at...

Theo, that's a great idea, and wouldn't require any machine work at all. I think I'll give that a shot!

I don't have a scale, but based on weights per foot, there should be 23-24 lbs of steel tubing. With brackets, spindles, bushings, shocks, etc, I would guess the whole front end weighs in a little under 30 lbs, not counting hubs and wheels/tires.

Little bit of progress this weekend. I think we're down to the short strokes on the front suspension. A few little issues to work through, and then I can get it mated up to the main frame. Left side flex. At maximum shock extension, it appears the arms droop approximately 18 degrees...

Yes, just stretch parts MF115-1507 to 21.5" long instead of 11.5". This will obviously affect the seat mounting rails as well (MF16-90), which I haven't built yet until I get the actual seat in my hands and can verify the mounting dimensions.

I have the caster issue resolved. I took measurements of all the components and was able to get both sides within 1/2 degree of each other by matching a-arms together with similar fabrication outages. Seems to me that ought to be close enough. I'm expecting cone spacers for above and below...

Right on! Be sure to post your build up. There's a lot of good information on this site. Good luck!

On paper, I would agree with you. It should be equal. But there's a lot of parts being assembled here. Something could have moved while I was tacking it together, either in the a-arms or the suspension block itself. I'm going to spend some time investigating it this weekend. I'm sure...

For the speeds we're talking about, the discussion is probably academic. I think the important thing is that the caster angle be equal for both spindles. I'm not sure that a few degrees one way or the other is going to dramatically affect performance, as long as both sides are set up the same.