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In America we use only single phase AC induction motors in our washers and dryers. If speed control is needed then we use 400 Hertz, 3-phase AC induction motors with single phase input VFD to 3-phase output for the motor.

Go AC. Use this kit:http://www.electricmotorsport.com/ev-parts/motor-drive-kits/ac-induction-motor-kits/ac-9-kit.html Be sure to select C-face mount. DC is garbage and needs brushes. AC is better for the high RPM and no maintenance. They are the most used motor in the world and have been...

The speed pot is bidirectional. It does not matter how you wire it up. You don't have to use the switch on throttle. Just follow the diagram I gave you and you will be set. If you want no key switch or E-stop then you can omit those. That's just how I wire mine up.

My go kart with 72 volts and 300 amp current limit did not make me feel like I was getting my face ripped off because I set a ramp up rate to gradually increase power to the motor instead of instantaneous in the motor controller settings. A DC motor will exhibit behavior based on how its being...

Don't know if you still looking for a motor, but I bought this one: http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrical/DC-Motors/DC-Motors-Face-Mount/2-5-HP-2000-RPM-36-VDC-MOTOR-IMPERIAL-ELECTRIC-P66SR274-10-2357.axd :thumbsup: Sometimes you hit the jackpot on these surplus sites. So just ignore my other...

Depends on a lot of factors, but I usually like to start off at 1500 watts as my starting point for a go kart build with final drive ratios of 6:1 for this power level. Good quality motors at these power ranges tend to be a bit expensive, but if you look at the surplus sites, then you can get...

I'm just not sure if wheelchair motors will be enough if you plan to use this as a tool for cutting grass. I'm worried about thermal issues on the motors since great resistance well be against them through pushing over tall grass and going up hilly terrains. I know of some electric wheelchair...

I don't really trust those Chinese made brushed motors. I have no experience with them. I just think you are better off going with a 200 to 373 watt motor like this...

Here is the wiring diagram: [/url][/IMG] I got rid of my me0909 a long time ago due to defect in manufacturing and I went series-wound DC instead. So I can't help you with that motor. The gearing you have should be low enough for it I would think.

I would go AC induction. It's also brushless, but has no permanent magnets as it is 100% electromagnetic. It's the most reliable motor out of all the other types. I plan to leave DC and go AC also. Im looking at the AC-9 Kit...

Please always specify budget. I suggest going AC induction motor. I plan to go this route since you get regen braking that feeds some of braking power back into the batteries, better reliability since there is no brushes to worry about, greater efficiency, and more gearing options due to the...

Should work perfectly. I had one of those PM DC motors before going series wound, but I returned that motor because when I looked at the end turn windings that curved around back into the slots of the armature at the front shaft end, there was no enamel insulation on them!! They bent them so...

Usually if you run higher voltage on a low voltage DC motor then it will draw more current as it is not wound for the higher voltage. HOWEVER, nearly all good quality DC speed controllers like AXE, Curtis, Sevcon, Evnetics, and Zilla, all have what is called ACTIVE motor current limiting. The...

Actually ALL motors produce AC, even commutated DC motors. The DC output is the result of the commutator being switched at the moment before current reversal. IF you removed the commutator on a brushed DC motor and replaced it with slip rings, then you get AC. Likewise, brushless DC motors DO...

Hi, for your application you need this controller: https://www.dimensionengineering.com/products/sabertooth2x60 I use these quite often for differential drives. I recommend that you not use those motors though. Use wheel chair motors instead. Like...

I just want to let you know that those pancake style motors are not very durable compared to a Series-Wound DC motor or AC induction motor setup. You will soon have lifted comm bars as the motor gets hot. For DC applications I like to use the D&D ES-22-2 series wound motor and AXE7234 controller...

The AXE4834 conroller has active current limiting and temperature foldback protection. It is more than enough for your needs and would be the correct controller to get for your application. DO NOT get the Kelly controller. You will regret it as they are garbage Chinese made that will fail often...

You need to use a series-wound DC motor or a SEP-EX DC motor (but you got to know the field map for those motors). Mine is 72 volts and goes 0-52 MPH in about 4 seconds and lasts for 30 minutes under 100% abuse. Of course I spent stupid amounts of dough on mine. The total costs is about $3000...

Actually for brushed DC motors it is square waves with varying duty cycle according to how much speed is needed and is not 3-phase... I suppose you were talking about Brushless DC motors, but it was not specific in your post. AC variable frequency drives do not use transformers, but instead...

Actually, in the industrial setting, 3-phase AC induction motors are cheaper than brushed DC motors, but in the EV world it is the opposite. It's anybody's guess as to why the polar opposites in pricing exists from the industrial world to the EV world. I am not sure of DC 3-phase brushless...