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So, the real problem I've been having is lack of power, it'd barely move under its own and you could stop the kart by holding it back. The kart originally had a #40 chain with 62 tooth sprocket on live axle. It would have been a major pain to change out the rear sprocket to a 8mm chain...

Here’s the hall and phase. “Power lock” goes to keyed switch Astern goes to three way switch Switched key and forward/reverse switch Throttle wiring Controller wires. Finally a schematic of wiring Forgot to add to schematic black to negative red to positive 48v(actually 51 charged)

So no luck on this build. I’ve worked the controller and hall wires in most combinations but can’t get anything to actually work. So no luck on this build. I’ve worked the controller and hall wires in most combinations but can’t get anything to actually work. Posts from functional artist and...

Wiring done. Temporarily held with duct tape. Need to mount motor then test out!

Ugh, wiring Why don’t they make the wiring labels easy to understand in English? Well other than the three speed switch and braking it’s tested good.

No these are just the higher capacity lawn mower batteries. U1 size. There aren't any easily available U1 size deep cycle batteries. These rural King batteries are about 22Ahr and cost $29 each.

Got the batteries and charger.

First post here. Going to convert go-kart to electric for kids to ride in. So far I’ve purchased the frame, 48v 1800w motor kit, and group 24 battery boxes. I’m going today to purchase four maintenance free U1 batteries (of which two will fit in each battery box. Bought a cheap 48v 2.5Ahr...