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I'd buy it in a heartbeat. Wish it was closer to me. jump on it!

Interesting I have learned I have a Dingo model 388-28.:idea2: Now that I feel dumb! I thought I had a dingo 285 for the last 4 years.:mad2: I have a question. Are all 5 and 6 hp versions on the smaller chassis?

Thanks Denny! Are you sure about the clutch sizes? I have an 8 hp the I put a 16 hp on and the clutch was a 30 series until I put a 40 on it.

3.5 hour drive and a tape measure says there is two different size frames. sorry the pic doesn't suit you.

That is a pricey "n". Thanks

Found what I hope to be my next project, but the engine compartment appears to be considerably smaller than the on I already have.

All too aware of what a pain it s to disassemble the axle. I had to do it about a month ago when I upgraded to a 40 series T.C.. I had to move the drive sprocket to the right of the engine to get the T.C. to line up. Not looking forward to it.

Even with the caliper split in half you cant get the left side off. It is between the frame and the disc. You can see how little space there is in picture.

Unfortunately the disc does not move far enough to the right to give me enough room to remove the brake pad or remove the left side of the caliper. There is a collar welded to the axel.

I have been thinking about floating disc. I can't think of any reason that the disc should be able to move on the axle. I have to remove the axle to replace the outboard brake pad, should I install a locking collar while I have it apart?

Thanks Kartfab. Just pulled it apart, Understand why it has to be adjusted so I can't go past the point of no return. But I believe my main issue is the 2 piece brake pad. Time to order new brake pads.

Found this one

I had to Digo deep for it. Can't say as I blame you. Tried to edit original subject line and I can't. Can I buy an "N" please:oops:

Have taken the linkage apart cleaned and lubed all pivot points (I added stainless washers) the linkage moves freely. The disc floats on the axles, it also moves freely. If I have to pull this whole thing apart, thinking I might as well upgrade to hydraulic. Does anyone make a direct fit caliper?

Are you sure it is gas that you put in it? I know this sounds stupid, but several years ago I bought a returned lawn mower from Lowes the repair ticket read drained kerosene and installed gas. They had two identical mowers with the same repairs done. I still thank that person. $400 mower for $125.

Pads are not new. How do you get to"the bullet"? I'll try greasing the slides. Not a fan of grease and brakes, but will give it a shot. Thanks

After hard braking the disc does not release as it should. All parts move freely. I added an additional return string, still sticks. Ideas?

I came up with a plan to take some of the slop out of my steering. It involved brass bushing, drilling 3/4 inch holes, welding on support plates and machined stainless washers. I had it all planned out, and purchased parts needed. disassembly time, I'm ready to roll, and pretty stoked I might...

Now i have to make the big adjustment of moving the throttle cable up a notch on the peddle.

My neighbor took my dingo out for a spin last night. I recently up graded to a 40 series torque converter, oh and it has a 16 hp duromax on it. He screamed like a little girl, then surrendered cart to me. Proclaiming I'm "effin" nuts. I'm a happy man!:wai::cheers2: Funny thing its still not...