Baja 200 Upgrades

[joshw0000]

Hey guys, I sold my last mini bike because it was too small (Coleman CT100 w/ Predator 212). And last night I scored this gem (Baja 200) for $250 off marketplace. It's pretty clean for a used mini bike, it's all stock, and the headlights work. He also added a rear running light.

When I initially test drove it, everything was fine, but it felt very slow (stock). It topped out at 17 MPH. When I got it home, I immediately backed out the throttle screw as it was all the way in and moved the governor spring over. It was much better, but had one big issue. At full throttle it would shake so bad, it felt like the handle bars would come loose. So I popped off the jackshaft and chain covers to start tinkering. The clutch was worn out. I could feel it drag on every turn when I did it by hand. I swapped it with one I had left over from another project but that didn't fix the shaking issue.

So I put it on stands in the shop and tested more. The issue isn't the handle bars themselves. They don't shake when on stands, so it has to be coming from the engine / chain. That's when I realized how tight the rear chain is. I tried to adjust it, but with it all the way in it still feels way too tight. So I removed the master link and now I can't even get it back on. It's like 3 links too short. I have another 420 chain that I'll rob some links from if needed.

While I'm tinkering, I decided to make it a little faster. I ordered a 40T rear sprocket, a 30 series torque converter to replace the jack shaft, a Juggernaut (super 30) driver, and a 1.75" motor riser. Also, a LED headlight bulb for night visibility.

I think this will top the speed out in the high 40's, low 50's, with plenty of torque. I've got a few days for the parts to come in. Can anyone think of any issues this will give me?

 

[Denny]

I have a mb200a you shouldn’t need to raise the engine.

 

[joshw0000]

I have a mb200a you shouldn’t need to raise the engine.

Good to know, thanks. I ordered on Amazon so I can send it back if I don't need it.

 

[joshw0000]

I have a mb200a you shouldn’t need to raise the engine.

Is your engine shaft like this? Is there an adapter I can buy to use a 3/4" torque converter? Or do I need a special torque converter?



I think I found the rattle at higher speeds. This tab is broken. So it'll be fine with a T/C.



This gave me a little scare. I'm used to Predators where it's used for oil.

 

[Hellion]

Is your engine shaft like this? Is there an adapter I can buy to use a 3/4" torque converter?

Interesting design. Most engine PTO shafts are one diameter the whole length and of course that smaller diameter threaded portion is also unique. The typical shaft is bored on the end and internally threaded.

 

[joshw0000]

I need to find one of these.

 

[Denny]

That’s a slick solution to your problem. I’ve never seen a pto shaft like that before.

 

[panchothedog]

I have owned 7 predator 212cc engines over the past 5&1/2 years. All of them have a solid 3/4" shaft ( with a key way cut ) and are drilled with a female
5/16 X 24 hole. From the looks of the shaft and the non oil port, I don't think you have a predator engine. A 30 series torque converter is the way to go, but with the male threaded end I don't think you can make it work. I have a couple of brand new 212 crankshafts if you are interested. Probably cheaper to buy one off of Amazon than it would cost to ship to you. What part of the country are you in?

 

[joshw0000]

I have owned 7 predator 212cc engines over the past 5&1/2 years. All of them have a solid 3/4" shaft ( with a key way cut ) and are drilled with a female
5/16 X 24 hole. From the looks of the shaft and the non oil port, I don't think you have a predator engine. A 30 series torque converter is the way to go, but with the male threaded end I don't think you can make it work. I have a couple of brand new 212 crankshafts if you are interested. Probably cheaper to buy one off of Amazon than it would cost to ship to you. What part of the country are you in?

It's not a Predator. It's the factory Baja 200CC that came with the bike. I'm finding little quirks on this motor that are different. There's also a tube on the back of the motor that appears to be some time of closed off drain. Any idea what this is for?





Just ordered a 4 pack of these. Wish me luck!

 

[Hellion]

There's also a tube on the back of the motor that appears to be some time of closed off drain. Any idea what this is for?

That is essentially the catch can for the crankcase blow-by, except it is a tube with a stopper on the end. It’s an emissions thing and I guess you can chalk it up to the notion that every Baja MB200 Warrior was given a California engine in order to satisfy all 50 states EPA compliance B.S.

Best thing about the stock Baja engine is the lighting coil, but otherwise it is still a very reliable engine.

Edited to add: the cylindrical piece probably has a filter element inside, a coarse sponge or mesh which allows the solid material (water and oil) to collect in the bottom tube while the oil and gas mist/vapor is returned back into the engine to be combusted a second time. The whole assembly is an EGR or PCV valve.

 

[joshw0000]

Well, the parts came in and the T/C is on. As Denny mentioned, I didn't need the riser, so I'll send it back. Unfortunately, I'll also have to send the juggernaut back unless anyone has an idea to make it work. The center piece screws into it and the hole is only large enough for the typical bolt used on the Predator shafts.






So, I went with the standard driver and trimmed some of the key out to clear the lug.



With the standard 30 series, it's ready for it's first ride. I gave it a couple jumps in the shop and it did fine. Fingers crossed, it doesn't give me any issues when I ride it for real.

 

[panchothedog]

Great that you were able to get the torque converter installed. Don't feel bad about returning the juggernaut. I have one ( have had it for years ) and believe me, they are very overrated. I would never spend that kind of money for another one. If you are looking for more performance from your clutch, you can change to the lighter weights and there about 6 or 7 different garter springs available. You can make a stock driver out perform the jugg for about half the money.

 

[joshw0000]

Great that you were able to get the torque converter installed. Don't feel bad about returning the juggernaut. I have one ( have had it for years ) and believe me, they are very overrated. I would never spend that kind of money for another one. If you are looking for more performance from your clutch, you can change to the lighter weights and there about 6 or 7 different garter springs available. You can make a stock driver out perform the jugg for about half the money.

I was pretty happy with the juggernaut on my kids' Yerfdog. It was a large go kart that would eat belts and slip on take off. I've never had a T/C on something as small as a mini bike so maybe it'll be fine.

That lug nut feels really good in the driver. Usually, it's a game of "is my bolt too short or too long" and praying the driver doesn't fly off while driving. I'll be really surprised if that lug nut comes loose.

 

[Hellion]

Excellent documentation of the issue and its resolution. Thanks for taking the time and effort, especially on the photos. Very classy looking mod. Let us know how it holds up.

Usually, it's a game of "is my bolt too short or too long" and praying the driver doesn't fly off while driving.

Seems there’s been a rash (more than one, haha) of such issues and incidents here on the forum.

What paint (is that paint?) did you use on the tank and fenders?

 

[joshw0000]

Excellent documentation of the issue and its resolution. Thanks for taking the time and effort, especially on the photos. Very classy looking mod. Let us know how it holds up.



Seems there’s been a rash (more than one, haha) of such issues and incidents here on the forum.

What paint (is that paint?) did you use on the tank and fenders?

Thanks. I try to be as detailed as possible. When I joined this forum a few years ago everyone was so helpful with documentation and pictures so I try to do the same any time I can. You guys gave me the modding bug .

I'm not sure. It was painted this way when I bought it last week. It was owned by an older gentleman who said he used it at the track to get around. He tried to match the color of his buddies race car. From what I can tell, it's probably spray paint but it was well done, with no runs. I'm assuming he sprayed some lacquer as well since it doesn't rub off easily.

While it was out of commission, I did wipe it down with this. I use this stuff on my motorcycle, golf cart, even my car sometimes. It's basically a cleaner and wax in one. The longer it sits, the more it breaks down grime and it's safe for everything except the parts that shouldn't be slippery. I use it on paint, chrome, metals, plastics, glass, etc. A buddy and I buy it by the case and split it.

 

[joshw0000]

Took the bike for a quick spin on my lunch break. It did pretty well. It's not popping any wheelies but didn't take forever to get off the line. The top speed I hit was 43 MPH on the road but that was slightly downhill. 40 is a more honest top speed on flat roads. I did notice as I was putting it up I had to hold the brakes at idle or it wanted to pull forward. That's my common experience with the normal 30 series drivers. They eventually start to stick open and require some attention almost every time it's used.

I'm having an issue with the handlebars. They have some play. It's not the device that locks on the actual handle bars, it's the 2 bolts that go into the frame. No matter how tight I get them, there is some play. I did a redneck fix of heat shrinking the bolts and electrical taping the heads that fit inside these. It helped some, as the bolt can no longer wiggle inside this piece, but there's still some play. Anyone else have issues with the handlebars?

 

[Denny]

Sorry, can’t help you there. You did use blue Loc-Tite on the lug nut, didn’t you?

 

[joshw0000]

Sorry, can’t help you there. You did use blue Loc-Tite on the lug nut, didn’t you?

Not yet, but the nuts aren't the issue. With them as tight as I can possibly get them, the handle bars still have some wiggle. I think these grommets (or whatever they're called) are worn out. I tried searching for them online but couldn't find any. I may just take them off and replace them with flat washers (or nothing at all).

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

You running away issue.
Is the idle set to high and causing the driver to start engaging?
Are the pullies aligned? A little misalignment could cause the belt to drag and cause this issue. Being on the backing plate helps but you can add washers to shim it a little.

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

What does the inside looks like ?


Possible to use a larger diameter bolt and drill the bore to fit?