i don't know much intro

[student👍]

Hi
I don't know much about working on a go-kart and I'm pretty new at it. I also don't have any budget at all, I can only do free mods to my kart. except for essential stuff like oil and gas( and the occasional broken part), I have a love/hate relationship with the kart since every time I fix something something else breaks or stops working, I learn about engines as I fix it so it always takes me a long time to find the problem. I have a vintage-style go-kart with an Ironton 208cc horizontal shaft OHV engine, I got this kart secondhand from someone who said it ran and did a solid 40, When I got home and tried it it didn't run and after some carb cleaning and new oil I got it to work and it did 30ish (somewhere round there), over time I've done free mods on it like bypassing the governor( I didn't remove it I only did the zipline trick ), I am still trying to tune the afr (after 2 years), I put a predator carb on it and now it ACTUALLY does 40. Ever since I zip-tied the governor it's (obviously) been revving way higher, however, I have two problems with it now, 1. The afr was good for a while but ever since I ziped the governor it's been shutting off when idling after going at full speed so I guessss its the afr and 2. Like I said before I ziped the governor BUT like I also said before I only get money for essential parts, and stiffer springs to make the go-kart faster slash more dangerous is not something essential so I think I've been getting valve float or something like that because there is something SERIOUSLY wrong with the exhaust valve, every time the intake valve closes the exhaust opens a little bit, like 2 or 3 ml, idk if this is normal or not so I really need help with that.
first time in a forum dont rlly knw how it works.

 

[BaconBitRacing]

The reason that exhaust valve open slightly is your compression release working, it makes it so when you start it it doesn’t pull your arm off. Please, remove the actual governor. I’d always advise keeping a stock engine governed, but if you must remove it then take it out for real. The reason why is it has a plastic gear which will blow up and cause big damage. Good luck and I hope we help!

 

[student👍]

Thanks a lot that actually helped and is a big relief, I was getting ready to hear the worst, that my camshaft was deformed or something like it, does the compression release keep doing that while it's running? and also I'm kind of limited on tools I just have normal household tools and I don't really have one of those tools to measure the torque applied to a bolt when you screw it, does that matter? Can I still open the engine or is it too risky? because I don't want my engine to become a transformer while I'm doing 40, can I just do it by feel?

 

[G.W]

That's how it is. You fix one thing and another brak3s, especially when you bought it from someone and ran it how they had it. You'll also find people will lie about mph because they are just guessing.

 

[Denny]

Welcome to gokarts! And Welcome here!

 

[BaconBitRacing]

Thanks a lot that actually helped and is a big relief, I was getting ready to hear the worst, that my camshaft was deformed or something like it, does the compression release keep doing that while it's running? and also I'm kind of limited on tools I just have normal household tools and I don't really have one of those tools to measure the torque applied to a bolt when you screw it, does that matter? Can I still open the engine or is it too risky? because I don't want my engine to become a transformer while I'm doing 40, can I just do it by feel?

It’s a moving piece on the camshaft, when RPMs are high enough it disengages, giving full power. Not a good idea to take apart an engine without proper tools, they are precision machines.

 

[student👍]

soo no governor removal?
also if I put washers on the bottom of the springs to make them stiffer to prevent valve float, would that work or is there a danger to that?

 

[BaconBitRacing]

soo no governor removal?
also if I put washers on the bottom of the springs to make them stiffer to prevent valve float, would that work or is there a danger to that?

Personally—don’t mess it. If you do too many rigged mods it’ll keep breaking and breaking and cost a lot in the end. If you can get ahold of a way to make some money and make real mods, you’ll be much happier in the end. But don’t fall for the stage kits, talk to @BrownStainRacing, he’s hopped up a few of these. He can show sim affordable mods that give good, reliable performance.

 

[G.W]

soo no governor removal?
also if I put washers on the bottom of the springs to make them stiffer to prevent valve float, would that work or is there a danger to that?

Bypass it with a piece of welding wire. I did this with my mini bike, it's pretty easy

 

[BaconBitRacing]

Bypass it with a piece of welding wire. I did this with my mini bike, it's pretty easy

You still run the risk of the plastic gear exploding in the motor.

 

[G.W]

You still run the risk of the plastic gear exploding in the motor.

I know, but it is good for temporary use if he is looking to pull it soon. I fully removed it in another 212, getting that plastic gear off is a pain

 

[student👍]

I do have the tools to assemble and disassemble the engine, the only thing I don't have is the torque-measuring-wrench (that is definitely not what its called ) I guess I could do the math to figure it out and torque it to specs would it work then? also is there another tool that's specifically used to open an engine that i should know about?

 

[G.W]

I do have the tools to assemble and disassemble the engine, the only thing I don't have is the torque-measuring-wrench (that is definitely not what its called ) I guess I could do the math to figure it out and torque it to specs would it work then? also is there another tool that's specifically used to open an engine that i should know about?

Just give it a couple of uga dugas with an impact. It's called a torque wrench FYI.

 

[BaconBitRacing]

Just give it a couple of uga dugas with an impact. It's called a torque wrench FYI.

Definitely not the spec way. I’m a stickler for perfection and things put together right. To each their own, I just like telling the way to get darned near perfect. Breaking a bolt is no fun, and neither is have a side cover come loose.
No specific tools for taking apart an engine, unless it‘s a full rebuild.

 

[student👍]

lol ,torque wrench, got it thanks
Also, what do you mean by giving it a couple of uga dugas with an impact? couldn't I just do it with just a regular uging and duging wrench?

 

[G.W]

Definitely not the spec way. I’m a stickler for perfection and things put together right. To each their own, I just like telling the way to get darned near perfect. Breaking a bolt is no fun, and neither is have a side cover come loose.
No specific tools for taking apart an engine, unless it‘s a full rebuild.

I used to use an impact like that until I actually buckled down and got a torque wrench.

 

[G.W]

lol ,torque wrench, got it thanks
Also, what do you mean by giving it a couple of uga dugas with an impact? couldn't I just do it with just a regular uging and duging wrench?

I mean rattle it down for a second or two with an impact

 

[student👍]

oh ok,got it
also BBR you said to not fall for the stage kits. wdum by that are they not efficient or not reliable?

 

[G.W]

oh ok,got it
also BBR you said to not fall for the stage kits. wdum by that are they not efficient or not reliable?

They are a rip off. They cost alot of money and don't do much increase in power. The best way to make power is to send the head jn and have it completely worked over and race built, then do all the bottom end mods.

 

[student👍]

ok ya
where could I go to get the head shaved and done over and how much would it cost?