Dumb TC question du juor.

[Master Hack]

So l robbed a 20 series variable drive or torque converter, whichever its called in this quadrant of the cosmos.The donor motor has a 3.75 inch long shaft, while the new motor has a 2.25 nch long shaft. Both are .75 diameter. The TC parts hang off the end of the shaft a long way. I can make something to get this to work, but how is the correct way ro do this? I’m sure i’m not the first one to encounter this…. A longer bolt just doesn’t look all that solid!

 

[panchothedog]

It doesn't but it will. As long as you have 3/8" for the outer part to rest on.
make sure the longer bolt you buy engages the full depth of the threads on the shaft. Use a little loctite, and torque to 24 lbs. I was SURE that it was going to fly off when I changed engines. Same situation you have. They stay on.

 

[Master Hack]

Well OK then. Is a scatter shield recommend? I'll give it a try...

 

[panchothedog]

No scatter shields available yet. But I would recommend running the plastic clutch covers that are sold with the torque converters. Honestly I did have one come off one time. I don't think I torqued properly. Tore up the cover pretty badly. Hardest part for me and my grandson was finding all of the parts of the driver. He was going pretty fast and in it all the way when it came off. Stuff was scattered for a half a block in both directions. Now it's torque wrench and
loctite EVERY time one has to be removed. No more guessing or doing it by feel.

 

[Denny]

You will be fine, just use some Blue Loc-Tite. It’s like Franks red hot sauce for mini-bikes and gokarts. “We put that S$&T on everything!” Except shafts that go through bearings and hubs, and the like. That usually ends badly. Don’t overthink it.

 

[Master Hack]

I love that s**t! I keep a bottle of
242
262
271
290
In my toolbox at all times. Franken kart loves to shed bolts. Since it runs offroad exclusively, once it spits bolts out, there ain’t no findin ‘em. Try 290 sometime, “wicking grade” same strength as blue and ya don’t have to take it apart. They also make a locktite for mounting bearings. Speakin of which l have boxes of kart specific bearings, left over from the biz when l shut it down. Going cheap just ask!

don’t overthink it? Thats what l do! It ain’t done til its over done….

 

[Master Hack]

Ok, after measuring the shaft, there is only about .250 of shaft sticking out after the half of the TC driver end is on. In order to get the belt to line up straight l need to put .750 spacers on the crank.

I cant put the driven element closer to the plate or there won’t be enough chain clearance. Milling the aluminum/rice fiber alloy place makes me nervous. (Strength)
I’m not comfortable hanging the driver out in air by just a bolt.


l need to rethink this whole thing!
View attachment 134543View attachment 134543

 

[Denny]

Can you swap the sprocket to the other side of the plate so you can move the driven closer to the plate? Sometimes you can, sometimes you can’t. You may be able to use your end mill to gain some clearance for the chain also. Removing a little should not hurt the strength too much. I’m sorry I thought the shaft was the longer one not the shorter. But in my defense I am dyslexic. That 1/4” would make me nervous also.

 

[panchothedog]

The picture you show with the tape measure looks exactly like mine before installing the outer section of the driver. I was SURE it wasn't shaft exposed.
Talked to one of the cowboys at Go Power Sports and he assured me it was parr for the course. As for chain clearance, I have a couple that are like
.020" to . 050" to the side. TIGHT. Even got rid of a #40 chain and replaced it with a #420, because it is about 1/8" thinner . And yes my driven clutches are scarred up on the inside. O.M.B. Warehouse sells shim kits. They are a lot thinner than common washers and it really helps to get the alignment dialed in.
I have purchased several sets of them.

 

[Master Hack]

They are a lot thinner than common washers and it really helps to get the alignment dialed in.
I have purchased several sets of them.

Thats a good tip, thanks! But, i have another motor that has a 3.75 long shaft, l think l’ll just use that one. The short shaft motor is brand new, so l hoped to use it, but l guess l’ll just have to build something else.

 

[panchothedog]

One more thought. Like Denny suggest, of you can move the sprocket to the side. If not ,the same place and many other kart supply shops sell a mounting plate that bolts to the motor mount, then you bolt the engine to the plate and it has slots milled in it and gives you about 2" side to side movement. I have them on two karts. Both of them powered with Predator engines. Short output
shafts. The plates fixed the problem because I was not able to move the sprocket.

 

[Master Hack]

Moving the sprocket doesn’t look like it will help.lt just moves the problem from one place to another.

 

[panchothedog]

The idea of moving the sprocket is so you can get the driven clutch closer to the plate. Allowing you to move the driver in closer to the engine.

 

[Master Hack]

I get that, but its complicated. This is anything but a normal installation. Another of my hack jobs. It is replacing the motor on my failed electric powered “naughtgator”.
It is getting intalled on top of this gearbox. Placement and available space are at a premium.

 

[Denny]

Well that does complicate things.

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

Needs a stronger chain. LOL

 

[redflash]

possibly ...lengthen the rear frame enough to get the room !

Da Redflash

 

[Master Hack]

I think I have a solution. Another thing when at 3 AM the light goes on in my head. I'll post up some pics and explanation next week sometime. Meanwhile, we are taking the buggy out to the desert to let the kids thrash on it for a couple of days. Its first outing, stay tuned for a carnage report.

 

[Denny]

Can we change the title to Dumb TC answers DuJour?

 

[Master Hack]

Can we change the title to Dumb TC answers DuJour?

Well, I guess that would make sense!