please suggest cheap welder

Status
Not open for further replies.

anickode

Active member
Messages
2,296
Reaction score
14
Location
S.E. Michigan
Although it's been recommended to avoid 110v welders, I'm in a situation that I don't usually have access to 224v. I just picked up a 110v Eastwood 135a mig welder that can do gas up to 1/8", and flux core up to 1/4". I paid $220.00 USD including shipping for it.

https://www.eastwood.com/mig-welder-110vac-135a-output.html

If your on a budget and you don't see yourself going with a real, (220v), welder, I really recommend it. I was using a 90a flux core only, which is an AC at the tip welder. The difference is huge. I'm getting much better welds with less splatter and better penetration.



How do you cut with propane? Do you think it would be possible to use a "green" bottle or a BBQ tank to do this? Space is an issue for me, as well as crossing multiple state lines as well as international borders. The regulations on carrying gas bottles can get tricky, so propane is a good option for me.

It's just a regular O/A kit with grade T hoses and a propane tip, which has a slightly recessed orifice ring. Coupling nut is the same on acetylene and BBQ style tanks.
 

Functional Artist

Well-known member
Messages
4,411
Reaction score
1,693
Location
Toledo, Ohio
Hello everyone, I have never tried welding, so I don't know enough to pick a cheap welder to learn on, so please help me figure out which welder I need.

I want a cheap one since I am just learning, but I don't know if I need a tig, mig, stick etc etc, nor do I have any idea the amperage I should be looking for.

All I will be using it for is go kart (mine is a Carter Bros 1215 live axle single seat yard kart if it matters) frame repair.

I have seen some (from places such as harbor freight, which I feel will be plenty good enough for me and what I want to do) for less than $100, but not sure if I need mig or tig or whatever, or amperage I should be looking for...

So pleeaase suggest a cheap (preferably less than $100 :) ) little welder for a welding noob that will work well for go kart related stuff. I don't need a badass machine as I am learning and can upgrade when my skills upgrade, and for the same reasons, I also want a cheap one.

Thanks everyone!


Yes, go to Harbor Freight & get a 110V wire welder (under $100.00)

https://www.harborfreight.com/catal...AFeatured+Weight,f,Sale+Rank,f&q=Flux+Welders

...a couple extra rolls of welding wire

...a welding mask (if you don't have one)

...& some metal

Then,

...practice, practice & practice some more

If/when you wear it out

...then, go buy a "better/more expensive" one :thumbsup:


I have been trying to wear mine out, so I can justify upgrading

...(5) karts later :2guns:

Desteny's https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qTRA1FXz9Lw

Winston's https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YZ6bcBy1O1M

Double Trouble https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TRIKLdvGlTA
(aka) El Turbo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-704ZyJkaU

Zero https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rss3YOJPBFY&t=3s

!Arriba! (building) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yn7LlvugyiA
(riding) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e6LV0A3l6jo&t=28s

& it's still going strong :2guns:
 

anickode

Active member
Messages
2,296
Reaction score
14
Location
S.E. Michigan
Yes, you'll still need oxygen if you use Propane for cutting.

Not only do you still need oxygen, you use MORE oxygen, but with acetylene prices what they are, you still come out ahead, especially if you get your propane tank filled ($8-$10 for a 20#) as opposed to swapping it out at $18-$24 for a 20#

The oxygen is what actually does the cutting. The torch just gets the metal hot enough to burn in the presence of pure oxygen. The oxygen jet burns the metal in an exothermic reaction. In theory you can turn the flame completely off and it will continue cutting with just the oxygen jet combined with the heat produced from the oxidizing iron. In reality it doesn't work too great unless you have a super steady hand and the perfect travel speed. It's also why oxyacetylene cutting doesn't work on non-ferrous metals like aluminum or stainless. The oxide must have a lower melting temperature than the base metal.

Back on subject... I look at the welder as a long term investment. I'm not saying that the average hobbyist needs to go out and drop 3+ grand on a top of the line millermatic or anything. What I am saying is that the end quality of buying a little bit better machine is well worth the expense IMO.

If you are dead set on spending 100 bucks or less on a new machine, there is one answer, and only one answer. There is also a reason that is the cheapest machine on the market by such a wide margin. Even with buying a $100 machine some other things to consider are you'll need a decent mask and gloves, some better quality flux core wire than what comes with it, and assorted grinding wheels. Flux core wire is more expensive than solid core. Yes, you'll have to burn a LOT of it to make up the difference.

A 120v mig welder is not the worst thing in the world. The limitation will be amperage output, and in turn material thickness. It will be fine for most anything go-kart related. It will require a dedicated 20 amp circuit. You will not have good results plugging it into the same 15a circuit that also runs the garage lights and fridge. You also cannot string out 100' of light duty extension cord to run it.

The big merit to stepping up to a gas shielded machine with DC output will be the quality and appearance of your welds right off the get-go, and its versatility for other things as well. If you are willing to hold off for a bit and troll the classifieds, you can save a bundle compared to buying a brand new machine. Might even find a package deal with a small gas bottle, mask, gloves, wire, etc, for a couple hundred bucks.
 
Last edited:

zogthegreat

New member
Messages
230
Reaction score
0
Location
Lake Wales FL/Montreal QC
Not only do you still need oxygen, you use MORE oxygen, but with acetylene prices what they are, you still come out ahead, especially if you get your propane tank filled ($8-$10 for a 20#) as opposed to swapping it out at $18-$24 for a 20#

The oxygen is what actually does the cutting. The torch just gets the metal hot enough to burn in the presence of pure oxygen. The oxygen jet burns the metal in an exothermic reaction. In theory you can turn the flame completely off and it will continue cutting with just the oxygen jet combined with the heat produced from the oxidizing iron. In reality it doesn't work too great unless you have a super steady hand and the perfect travel speed. It's also why oxyacetylene cutting doesn't work on non-ferrous metals like aluminum or stainless. The oxide must have a lower melting temperature than the base metal.

Thanks for explaining this, very informative for us non-professionals! :)

A 120v mig welder is not the worst thing in the world. The limitation will be amperage output, and in turn material thickness. It will be fine for most anything go-kart related. It will require a dedicated 20 amp circuit. You will not have good results plugging it into the same 15a circuit that also runs the garage lights and fridge. You also cannot string out 100' of light duty extension cord to run it.

I actually installed a 30a switch, and ran a wire to the bay in my RV that's next to my outside work bench. I did this because with my flux core welder, I kept tripping the 15a switch. Total PITA to have to continuously stop working and run inside to reset the breaker!

The big merit to stepping up to a gas shielded machine with DC output will be the quality and appearance of your welds right off the get-go, and its versatility for other things as well. If you are willing to hold off for a bit and troll the classifieds, you can save a bundle compared to buying a brand new machine. Might even find a package deal with a small gas bottle, mask, gloves, wire, etc, for a couple hundred bucks.

I saw the difference as soon as I tried my new welder. Like I said before, the welds were cleaner with less splatter. An flux core welder runs AC current at the tip, operating at 60hz. What that means is that the current alternates on/off at the welding tip every second. With a DC welder, the current is steady, without alternating, giving you a cleaner weld. (Someone better than me please step in and give a better explanation please).

Like anickode said, spend the extra if you can. I was looking at converting my flux core AC at the tip welder to DC at the tip. It can be done, but the parts cost as much as buying a new low end DC welder like my Eastwood, (when you factor in the original cost of the flux core welder). However, you can't run gas and I'm finding out that gas make a huge difference. The extra $100 that I spent was worth it, IMO.
 

anickode

Active member
Messages
2,296
Reaction score
14
Location
S.E. Michigan
I saw the difference as soon as I tried my new welder. Like I said before, the welds were cleaner with less splatter. An flux core welder runs AC current at the tip, operating at 60hz. What that means is that the current alternates on/off at the welding tip every second. With a DC welder, the current is steady, without alternating, giving you a cleaner weld. (Someone better than me please step in and give a better explanation please)

It's pretty simple... All wire feed processes are supposed to be done with DC current. The polarity of the DC current dictates where the heat is focused. DC electrode positive focuses the heat on the electrode, burning the wire back faster, whereas DC negative focuses the heat more on the workpiece. Gas shielded processes such as solid wire, dual shield flux core, and metal core (yes, that's a thing) wire should be performed DC electrode positive, and unshielded flux core should be performed DC negative.

With AC output, not only is the polarity reversing 60x per second (or 50 in some countries), but your actual voltage drops to zero as the sinewave reverses polarity. This, combined with the adverse effects of running the wrong polarity half the time yields a relatively uncontrolled burn, with a longer arc length, which results in significantly more spatter and less focused heat.

Even self shielded flux core is SUPPOSED to be run on DC negative polarity. Harbor freight does not include a rectifier on the welder output to keep costs down, at the expense of not being able to perform the process as it should be done. You will not find another wirefeed machine out there that outputs AC current, simply because it's wrong.

Does it still burn metal together? Yes it does, and I won't deny that. You asked for a $100 machine, and we told you your one option, along with the drawbacks.
Ultimately it's your call.
 

supermanotorious

Winchmaster 5000
Messages
2,088
Reaction score
1
Location
New River, AZ
I think it's crazy to rule out the Harbor Freight entry level flux core machine. Less than $100 and perfect for beginners. Easy to learn on, you won't learn the real concepts behind welding but you can start putting metal together. I made my high quality winches for 4 years using that machine, no one believed the welds came from a HF flux machine but that's what multiple welding classes will get you. The flux machine won't do 1/4" but it will weld your gokart no problem.

And if you decide welding isn't for you, you didn't waste too much money, someone in your friends or family list will gladly take it from you.
 

Angelk

New member
Messages
15
Reaction score
0
Location
Lincoln, Nebraska
I bought a refurbished hobart 140. I got it for 300. The thing runs like a champ, I have done several large welding jobs with it and have never had issues. It came with gas hookups but I have never used them. I would 10/10 recommend it unless you have the money for a nice 220 volt.
 

landuse

Moderator
Staff member
Messages
18,626
Reaction score
220
Location
Pietermaritzburg, South Africa
I think it's crazy to rule out the Harbor Freight entry level flux core machine. Less than $100 and perfect for beginners. Easy to learn on, you won't learn the real concepts behind welding but you can start putting metal together. I made my high quality winches for 4 years using that machine, no one believed the welds came from a HF flux machine but that's what multiple welding classes will get you. The flux machine won't do 1/4" but it will weld your gokart no problem.

And if you decide welding isn't for you, you didn't waste too much money, someone in your friends or family list will gladly take it from you.

I have heard that as long as you use quality wire instead of the HF stuff then it works like a dream
 

Kartorbust

Well-known member
Messages
3,901
Reaction score
194
Location
Utica, NE
I have heard that as long as you use quality wire instead of the HF stuff then it works like a dream
I've heard that as well. Running Hobart, Lincoln or Miller wire it should do fine. The one upside of Flux Cored that not everyone knows is you can run it outside on a windy day and not worry about weld defects vs running shielded Mig. Which can be a big deal, especially if you do not have a shop or garage to build in. When I was living with my parents, I could not have the ceiling fan in the garage on while welding, let alone have doors open, because the slightest breeze would push the shielding gas away from the weld and cause porosity.

Harbor Freight does still have several Mig/flux cored welders on their website from Chicago Electric. It looks like just the 90amp is the only one going away. The 125amp flux cored welder is $109 and that should be a bit better (better duty cycle) than the out going 90amp. For $179 you could get a mig/flux welder that can use either shielding gas with solid wire, or you can use gasless flux cored.

A name brand flux cored welder like from Lincoln, the Handy mig starts at $219. There's plenty of options out there. Either buy a band new cheap one to practice on and save to buy a better one later, or buy used, can't go wrong either way.
 

ezcome-ezgo

G'me sumthin to write on
Messages
4,765
Reaction score
1,336
Location
Atlanta, GA
I have a cheapo Northern Tool Mig. Replaced the wire with Lincoln. Night and day. The NT wire will actually snap if you try to bend it the least bit.
 

mindymogul

Mistress of Destruction
Messages
418
Reaction score
6
Location
Land of Camo and Fireball
I have a cheapo Northern Tool Mig. Replaced the wire with Lincoln. Night and day. The NT wire will actually snap if you try to bend it the least bit.

Okay that one I can account for. I tried using some as a conduit tether and about 2' in it crumbled. The same goes with generic auto parts store wire. (I actually think that's worse)
 

Kartorbust

Well-known member
Messages
3,901
Reaction score
194
Location
Utica, NE
I have a cheapo Northern Tool Mig. Replaced the wire with Lincoln. Night and day. The NT wire will actually snap if you try to bend it the least bit.
I have the 140i version of the one your talking about, but from Northern Industrial and I think it's great. No idea on the Klutch brand, but should be just as good.
 

supermanotorious

Winchmaster 5000
Messages
2,088
Reaction score
1
Location
New River, AZ
let me add, I will always keep a Harbor Freight cheapy flux core welder in my shop and I have one right now sitting next to my Lincoln Tombstone, SW 200, and 210 MP

you never know when you just need something welded quick and dirty, or when your dad or brother in law must borrow a welder, or when you weld something for a neighbor who isn't planning on paying you, why roll out the RED carpet (see what I did there) for them?!
 

pearl111

Well-known member
Messages
1,096
Reaction score
391
Location
Baltimore, Maryland
I learned that if you go with HF. welders throw away their brand wire. Go out and get a good brand of wire ( Lincoln electric ........) good wire makes a big difference.
 

mckutzy

Well-known member
Messages
8,353
Reaction score
31
Location
bc, canada
On thing I see that isn't mentioned here... Any self shielding fluxed rod/wire needs to have a clean base to work well... That is after making a tackweld... Chip and brush to clean it well, for the final pass... Then again after the welding is done, to inspect the final results..
Kinda drives me a bit nuts to see it(I'm a little OCD about it when I'm using mine) not cleaned up a bit, and people say hey see my kart/buggy/ machine... But all these fluxed-up welds not clean...
 

bob58o

SuckSqueezeBangBlow
Messages
8,809
Reaction score
885
Location
Chicago-town USA
On thing I see that isn't mentioned here... Any self shielding fluxed rod/wire needs to have a clean base to work well... That is after making a tackweld... Chip and brush to clean it well, for the final pass... Then again after the welding is done, to inspect the final results..
Kinda drives me a bit nuts to see it(I'm a little OCD about it when I'm using mine) not cleaned up a bit, and people say hey see my kart/buggy/ machine... But all these fluxed-up welds not clean...

Feel free to stop by and fix up my welds anytime.:cheers2:
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top