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It's REEEEALLY Annoying When...

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J_Walker

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When you buy a $300 cam and then realize you need to spend another $250 on heads and $60 on a vale guide grinding tool.

Good luck if its the handheld ones......... :cornut:

EDIT:

When you go out to eat, and you ask the person taking the order if there's mayonnaise on what your ordering, and they can't tell you. Pull the manager over and ask them, they say no. So you order it. bite into said Non-mayonnaise burger, and find out they put mayonnaise on it... Lips start to peel and burn a little - stomach starts boiling.. I'm allergic to eggs and soy...

Tell manager this. The same one who told me there wasn't any mayonnaise. And he acts like "WELL I DIDN'T MAKE YOUR BURGER HOW WAS I SUPPOSE TO KNOW!?" Trying not to give anyone a hard time, I ask if I still have to pay for it being it was all wrong and now I'm going to have to suffer the next four hours with this allergic reaction [not deadly but its like having the stomach flu and heartburn all at the same time.] And he's all like "OF COURSE YOU GOTTA PAY FOR IT!" So I handed over the cash, No one got a god **** tip, and I called in HIS higher up. Found out a week later. [two days ago] he was fired for that incident. Because "It could of had been worse." Because I didn't physically "Die" It wasn't that bad?! That place is full of a bunch of monkeys.
 

itsid

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Oh, next time you are asked to pay for such food tell 'em this:
choose from one:
I do NOT need to pay, stand right up and go to the hospital to get an antihistamine injection.
OR
I need to pay for it and sit here waiting for the ambulance to pick me up... and then I sue your a55
should do the trick ;)

'sid
 

Doc Sprocket

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Naw- That's bull. I would NOT have paid for it. The manager may NOT have the entire menu committed to memory, but if there was any doubt, it was his responsibility to excuse himself and go ask the kitchen staff.
 

carter

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When you put a new pressure regulator in an EFI fuel spider, and you have a leak, so you tear off the upper intake and prime the line to do a leak test, and fuel SPRAYS in all directions from around the regulator.
 

souperman000

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Really? Dude, play along or move along :toetap05:

Oh wow reading that now sounds really bad. :eek:

I meant it as my complaint and no disrespect to this thread. I was just the leader on a backpacking trip with people complaining. I've enjoyed this thread so far and think its actually very funny.

:cheers2:
 

J_Walker

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My point being - having most of my family work in food service, is MOST servers and managers of food joints have to take a menu test before being officially hired, so that's also why I assumed when he said "NO" that it was the truth, and the server was a new guy.. but nope. My mistake.

You live an learn, Like I said, none of my allergy's are deadly. I just have a lot of them, that affect me in funny ways.

On another note..


When you order a part online, by the part number. When you get the part, it doesn't match the part you have to replace, but has the same part number...

When you need a part for your vehicle. R/R [hehe yeah still dealing with this.] And technology that's still being used since the 60's cost you 80 bucks.. Or you dish out $130 for the MOSFET type. a more modern up-to-date style R/R. Considering my R/R has been replaced once by the P/O. I'm just gonna go with the fuse style R/R in hopes it'll blow the fuse before it damages the R/R. Or maybe the breaker version is better? Hmmm.. Still debating.
 

carter

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R/R? What is this RR device?

When you discover that the people who designed the EFI for your vehicle half-assed it.
 

carter

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Rectifier/Regulator
You mean that inline fuel pressure regulator that goes in the line right before it enters the carb?



Yup, sounds bout right... Engineering - Taking corners where ever your boss tells ya'.
Luckily it turns out The fuel spider on my last engine was the electronic type instead of the poppet style. I'm checking to see it holds fuel now, I'm hoping that it works out because it's much less prone to clogging and whatnot. Then all I need is my new set of springs/retainers/locks to come in so my heads will be ready for the new BAMF cam.
 

Doc Sprocket

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You mean that inline fuel pressure regulator that goes in the line right before it enters the carb?

No- A regulator/rectifier is an electrical device that turns the alternator's AC current output into DC for your vehicle's electrical system, and then controls the power output so that voltage and current are within range.

Really annoying when you're waiting for a seller to get back to you, so you can score some cool rolling stock for your go kart project, and the guy's slower than a glacial melt! AAARRRGGGHHH

I'm STILL waiting for this idiot!!! Now THAT is beyond annoying. I could scream! Seriously. I put out a want ad. HE contacted ME. Now I'M chasing HIM to buy this stuff... Seriously?!?! :censored::censored::censored:

A small object dropped will roll to very center and back to the wall under the work bench, and will be 1/2 inch out of reach. It will be the only one you have and the project will not work without it.

Had a variation on this the other night. Kitchen faucet was leaking pretty badly, so I whipped it out and swapped in a good spare I had lying around. When I was about to connect the flexible hose for the pullout, I blew into it to get some debris off the sealing surface. Stupid bloody small nylon part absolutely FLEW away, and never did find it. Specialty part, of course. After an hour or so of searching (to no avail) I ended up testing a few combinations of O-rings until I managed to get it to work. Still haven't found the dang part...
 

carter

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No- A regulator/rectifier is an electrical device that turns the alternator's AC current output into DC for your vehicle's electrical system, and then controls the power output so that voltage and current are within range.

See, I don't know a thing about the electronic side of things, I can rebuild an engine without a hitch, have it all within spec and clean and perfectly running, as far as the electric side of things go, I know how to crimp wires together, thats about it.
 

J_Walker

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See, I don't know a thing about the electronic side of things, I can rebuild an engine without a hitch, have it all within spec and clean and perfectly running, as far as the electric side of things go, I know how to crimp wires together, thats about it.

It's okay, I'm "forced" to learn this electronic snazz. Because I refuse to take anything to any "shop" any more.. Tired of getting ripped off!

When it comes to it, when I crack into the top end of my engine finally, for a re-shimming. and possibly new valves/pistons-rods. [shorter stroke? :D] I'll end up having to pay someone to do it, because I don't got the tools.. but as far as everything else. I'll do it.

Only other thing I do not do on my bike is tire changes/soon to be sprocket changes.. again, don't got the tools to do it. not yet of course, in a few more years maybe when I've acquired a larger selection.
 

carter

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It's okay, I'm "forced" to learn this electronic snazz. Because I refuse to take anything to any "shop" any more.. Tired of getting ripped off!

When it comes to it, when I crack into the top end of my engine finally, for a re-shimming. and possibly new valves/pistons-rods. [shorter stroke? :D] I'll end up having to pay someone to do it, because I don't got the tools.. but as far as everything else. I'll do it.

Only other thing I do not do on my bike is tire changes/soon to be sprocket changes.. again, don't got the tools to do it. not yet of course, in a few more years maybe when I've acquired a larger selection.

You've gotta learn to make do with what you have mate, I have an adjustable wrench that I ground 1/64 off of material form both sides, and now I have an adjustable wrench that has about a 1/32 gap in it that is also handy for removing a clutch driven fan.
 

J_Walker

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You've gotta learn to make do with what you have mate, I have an adjustable wrench that I ground 1/64 off of material form both sides, and now I have an adjustable wrench that has about a 1/32 gap in it that is also handy for removing a clutch driven fan.

Well, I still need to acquire a major tool - 1/2 - 1/4 torque wrench.. So I can stop "borrowing" them from everyone I know. :oops:

I think when I get them, I wouldn't mind wrenching on the sprockets/tires as much. as I know I got the proper torque on there and not worrying if somethings rattling lose, speaking of that, I need to get more blue loctite soon!

Speaking of loctite, I'm wondering, those who use it... Do you prefer the stick, or the bottle? I find, depending how old the stick is. [sitting on the shelf] It can be rather hard to apply to the threads. While the bottle can get kind of messy sometimes, but it seems to be most constant.

And to get back on thread....

When exhaust manifold clamps, The bolts that tighten them down, are made out of what seems like iron, and heat/rust just eat them away until you go to take them off and they turn to dust. Or for some reason the "stainless" steel ones sometimes get like butter soft after so long being on exposed to all that heat.
 

fowler

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Go the bottle
I don't know how the bottle gets messy

U know u only need a single drop on small bolts
If u get a torque wrench then go for a 3/8 one
It covers a wide range of bolts U would come across on bikes and cars
 

newrider3

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Harbor Freight torque wrenches are actually better than you might think, and insanely cheap for a precision tool. I had the Snap-On truck guy test my 1/4" and 1/2" drive units and they were within the specs that Snap-On states for their (rather expensive) torque wrenches.
 

fowler

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Snap in torque wrenchs are way over priced
Cat sell the same product for a lot less

And the snap on torque wrench is just a rebranded Presision Instrument one

And they sell for 1/2 price

But with snap on u can take the tool back in 30 years when it's worn out and they wil replace it
 

carter

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I use a $30 click wrench from advance auto parts and a 1/2 to 3/8 drive converter when it's needed.

Hasn't let me down yet.
 
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