Denny
Canned Monster
But if it’s #35 chain you’ll snap it eventually.
Newbie Needs Advice
- Thread starter Speedster
- Start date
Speedster
Active member
Ok... Thanks, I'll find a kit with #45 chain.
Speedster
Active member
* #40 chain.
Rat
Well-known member
I don't like #35 chain either but I was thinking baby steps... get it together first, then fuss with specific swapouts.
Speedster
Active member
Ok... Here is the upgrade New axle kit It has a 60t sprocket, maybe I'll have to swap it. Or just try running it like it is and see if it works alright.
Rat
Well-known member
I personally don't like #40 and absolutely hate #41 chain, I do however love 415. ProTaper PT415MX is the best chain of any size in the 1/2 inch pitch group I've ever used.
When you DO switch to that 40 chain, you'll want to go something in the range of a 10t 3/4 bore for the jackshaft and a 60t for the axle... any combination 0.5 on either side of 6:1 will do but you'd likely benefit more from gearing under.
Keep in mind that the 1/2" pitch family will mean larger diameter sprockets overall tooth for tooth than the 35
(72t 1/2" pitch is massive compared to a 72t 3/8" pitch)
9/60 = 6.66:1
10/60 = 6:1
11/60 = 5.45:1
Rat
Well-known member
That's my general practice. None of the Comet Tav2 clones come with a belt that's worth using HOWEVER, I do still use them for initial set up and testing, Id rather mangle a junk belt with an unforseen issue than a genuine Comet belt. At this point, I'll order a Comet, then run the junk one till it's stretched beyond service before dropping the good stuff into play.
Same said for cheap chains too; I'd rather run into alignment snags and ruin a chain not worth using than ruin a top shelf chain right out of the box.
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Denny
Canned Monster
He’s using a 40 series kit with a back plate so no need for a jackshaft kit. Make sure that axle kit has the 4x4” hubs for the wheels.
Rat
Well-known member
I didn't say anything about a jackshaft KIT Denny.
The 40 series has a 3/4 jackshaft and unless it comes with more than that 12t for 35 chain he will need to source a 3/4 bore sprocket for the 40 chain or what ever 1/2" pitch he goes with.
Speedster
Active member
I was thinking since I am switching my plans to #40 chain, I will just find a different torque convertor. And then I could find on with a 10t sprocket, to make the assembly geared better.
So THAT'S how it works. The number of teeth on the axle sprocket divided by the number of teeth on the drive sprocket. A stupidly simple thing for me not to have quite understood it until now.
Speedster
Active member
Here is the latest 40 series. I went to searching on eBay, because I was sick of inadequate Chinese descriptions on Amazon. eBay is a little better, but not a ton. And the torque convertors on eBay are much more reasonably priced than on Amazon, so that worked out. My difficulty was finding a kit with a 10t sprocket. They often say it is 10t, then you count the actual sprocket in the picture and it is different. I'm sure some of you guys can tell the difference between a 10t and 12t just by looking at it, but I can't. So I have to strain my eyes and count them myself. This one has a 10t sprocket, but it doesn't say what size chain it is for, so fingers crossed on that. What do you think?: New torque convertor
Denny
Canned Monster
You’re still learning it’s ok. We have seen others use that similar kit with success with a Genuine Comet Belt.
Rat
Well-known member
A large number of them come with both a 12t #35 and a 10t #40/41/420 (at least the 30 series do) sprocket... could be why. They are also notoriously bad for using a "stock photo" meaning what you get could be totally different, ALWAYS read the descriptions carefully.
Do yourself a favor on ebay and set and lock the filter to "Item location- USA only" so you're not waiting for the slowest rickshaw out if Shanghai to reach the port and be loaded to the slowest barge across the ocean, then be stuck in customs for a week or more before taking 2w to cross country.
I personally don't care much where the seller is located, but I will absolutely not wait months for international shipping if I can at all avoid it.
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Speedster
Active member
The "stock photo" thing makes sense. That would explain why on like all of the photos of the sprockets, the key was facing to the lower right.
So maybe I'll trust the description more than the photo.That's happened to me. Once time, I ordered something off of eBay and it was like three months until I got it. Didn't help me appreciate the Chinese any.
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Speedster
Active member
I have read about different springs on the TC's being used for clockwise vs counterclockwise, I have also read about those different springs color coded. Is that anything I need to worried about, or will the majority of them already be set to clockwise?
Whitetrashrocker
Inmate #952016
They should be already to go. Don't worry too much about the color of the spring yet. Thats for tuning.
Get rolling first.
Get rolling first.
Denny
Canned Monster
I have heard you will need to get a reverse wound spring with some kits. With others it is supplied. Remember the primary clutch gets installed backward (from what you are used to seeing) so the belt will line up correctly.
Speedster
Active member
Sooo... just verifying. For the style of go kart I will be making, 1" sch40 pipe will be sufficient? Does anyone happen to know what size pipe the original American Express used? How about the GoPowerSports American Express 2.0?
Speedster
Active member
BTW, I did try to do my own research.
Speedster
Active member
I know this is an incredibly subjective question, but does anyone have a ballpark estimate for what a go kart like the one I am planning would sell for? Assume all the welds look professional. Picture: dark green enameled frame, chrome wheels and accents, engine that looks like new, good tires, the whole thing is put together well, etc. Picture the classic car equivalent of a go kart. Wait... scratch that, reverse it.