Gk200 rectifier for charging system?!

clueless8169

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Im pretty new to this kinda stuff...but ive got a coleman gk200 with a 196cc motor, it came with some crappy little LED lights on the front, and they pull power from what ive gathered is a rectifier?? Not sure. Either way i was wondering if it would be possible to cut the green and yellow power wires to the headlights and route that power to a little 12v battery for bigger lights?20240322_111828.jpg Is this possible? Will it be able to run lights AND put a charge on a battery?!? TIA20240322_111816.jpg20240322_111950.jpg
 

Thepartsguy

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I’m not sure if your regulator has a diode but hooking it up to 12v with no idea what will happen sounds like a good way to kaboom the rectifier
 

clueless8169

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I’m not sure if your regulator has a diode but hooking it up to 12v with no idea what will happen sounds like a good way to kaboom the rectifier
Its got diodes i think. Im pretty good with industrial electric, runnin 3 ph motors, 24v control voltage....i know nothing about these engines though haha. The little crappy headlights have like 20 LEDS each and theyre awful. If i could put some kind of overcharge protection in line it would be awesomw to pull power from those useless LED headlights and store the energy in a battery for the light bar/ brake and turn signals
 

Thepartsguy

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Its got diodes i think. Im pretty good with industrial electric, runnin 3 ph motors, 24v control voltage....i know nothing about these engines though haha. The little crappy headlights have like 20 LEDS each and theyre awful. If i could put some kind of overcharge protection in line it would be awesomw to pull power from those useless LED headlights and store the energy in a battery for the light bar/ brake and turn signals
I bet the coils under the flywheel are lighting coils and not charging coils. Search around and see if they make a full on stator charging system swap.
 

clueless8169

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I bet the coils under the flywheel are lighting coils and not charging coils. Search around and see if they make a full on stator charging system swap.
Thank you so much, this is the clearest answer ive been able to find. Ive been rackin my brain for days trying to understand this. Ill start checkin out what you mentioned!
 

Rat

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You don't want to cut the yellow wires!
[I see now you are referring to at the back of the light, not directly off the rectifier... going directly off the rectifier to battery first is the proper way and any other could easily smoke the whole system. Follow chain of command, Stator> battery> system]
I have quite a lot of experience with these kind of things including building whole lighting and charging systems from scratch.

If you try connecting anything to a battery is needs to be the Red and Green... I doubt it will charge.

If it doesn't already have a battery tray, then as suggested, that engine has definitely has the inferior lighting coil (3A) versus a charging coil (5A or more) and you'd need to start there.

Your headlights could be garbage for any of a few reasons.

1. They are meant more as DRL to be seen by, instead of to see with after dark.

2. No reflector bowl to project the light emitted into any particular direction.

3. Poor design has them needing more current than they can be given by the stator.
 
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clueless8169

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You don't want to cut the yellow wires!
[I see now you are referring to at the back of the light, not directly off the rectifier... going directly off the rectifier to battery first is the proper way and any other could easily smoke the whole system. Follow chain of command, Stator> battery> system]
I have quite a lot of experience with these kind of things including building whole lighting and charging systems from scratch.

If you try connecting anything to a battery is needs to be the Red and Green... I doubt it will charge.

If it doesn't already have a battery tray, then as suggested, that engine has definitely has the inferior lighting coil (3A) versus a charging coil (5A or more) and you'd need to start there.

Your headlights could be garbage for any of a few reasons.

1. They are meant more as DRL to be seen by, instead of to see with after dark.

2. No reflector bowl to project the light emitted into any particular direction.

3. Poor design has them needing more current than they can be given by the stator.
Youre the man. Things are getting alot clearer for me now.

So theoretically, i could swap the lighting coil for a 5a charge coil, double check the rectifier can handle it, if it clears then i can run the red+green to my battery and then build a nice power distribution box to hook my lighting too??
 

Rat

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Youre the man. Things are getting alot clearer for me now.

So theoretically, i could swap the lighting coil for a 5a charge coil, double check the rectifier can handle it, if it clears then i can run the red+green to my battery and then build a nice power distribution box to hook my lighting too??
The Only rectifier I've seen or had that couldn't handle a swift kick of 40A has been the Kohler ones for riding mowers.
I currently use a GN200 rectifier on my cow, but there's not much of that thing that isn't either pure custom, repurposed, or heavily modified.

I wouldn't worry about the rectifier being able to handle it or not, it appears to be the same generic China unit slapped on everything with a GY6 or clone engine. It can handle more than you can or at least would be willing to personally thow at it.

5A is the bottom barrel variety, and for the direction it appears you are going, or may eventually go it's going to be worth getting something bigger than 5A if possible.

Don't piss about with any single coil crap, get a parallel one if possible.
Worst case scenario get a pair of singles and modify them to be full wave parallel

To do this you simply pull the frame ground connections off (always the wrap starting point) solder a 2" 14ga wire to one of them.
Desolder (cut if crimp connected) the tail wire from the other and resolder it to the other open ground, then that 2" line you added goes to where you just removed the outbound line from and you now have a full wave parallel coil stator that should be able to output a lot higher.

BTW They call them parallel because they run parallel to each other 180° apart, they are electrically connected in series.

The full chain of command would be stator>VRR>battery>distribution>system

All grounds back to frame beginning with the battery negative terminal, this saves a whole F★CKLOAD of wire as well as electrical problems later.

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