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  #181  
Old 09-03-2019, 07:29 AM
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Default Takin' on the Anthony Wayne Bridge

I wanted to (& my buddy Sid suggested) get some amp readings
...while goin' up/climbing a hill.

I took El Moto down to/by the Maumee River
...to find some bridges.

The biggest bridge that we have here in Toledo is called the "High Level Bridge"
...or officially designated the Anthony Wayne Bridge

* I believe it's named after General "Mad" Anthony Wayne
...he was supposed to be a "trail blazer" of this area back in the "pioneer days"

From what I'm seeing, the Max Amp draw seemed to be in the 200A-300A range
…& the constant Amps seemed to be in the 50A-60A range

Is that what you'all see?

Here is a video of the ride/data

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  #182  
Old 09-11-2019, 08:27 PM
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Gonna try something different
...to get some Amp readings from a different type/style of instrument

So, I picked up an analog Amp meter (~$23.00)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/401274659319

New DC 0 ~ 500A Analog AMP Current Needle Panel Meter Ammeter
XT-72 & Shunt
Type: Analog AMP Meter
Scale Range: DC 500A
Accuracy: Class 1.5
Size: 72 mm x 72 mm x 45 mm
Package included:
1 x Meter
1 x Shunt
2 x Nuts
2 x Spring Washers
4 x Flat Washers
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  #183  
Old 09-26-2019, 08:38 AM
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I've been lookin', seems like, forever for a "base" or box to mount this Amp meter into.

The top or opening, of the container, had to be able to hold the (4" x 4" x 2") "square" meter
…& the bottom had to be (~3 1/2") round, to mount on the bike

Well, lookin' around & thinkin' "outside of the box", I found a 1qt. Brake Fluid bottle that had a ~3 1/2" circular bottom
…& flexible enough to conform to a 4" x 4" square
(fits nice-n-snug)

So, I drilled some holes, in the bottom, for the wires & bolts
…& then, added some mounting "studs"

The wiring is super simple (doesn't even need a power supply)
...only has (2) signal/sensor terminals

It didn't come with directions or a wiring diagram so, I figured the (1) marked (-) must go to the battery pack negative (B-) side of the shunt (black wire)
…& the other (1) must go to "power draw" (P-) side of the shunt (yellow wire)
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  #184  
Old 09-26-2019, 11:24 AM
Tpdingo Tpdingo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Functional Artist View Post
I've been lookin', seems like, forever for a "base" or box to mount this Amp meter into.

The top or opening, of the container, had to be able to hold the (4" x 4" x 2") "square" meter
…& the bottom had to be (~3 1/2") round, to mount on the bike

Well, lookin' around & thinkin' "outside of the box", I found a 1qt. Brake Fluid bottle that had a ~3 1/2" circular bottom
…& flexible enough to conform to a 4" x 4" square
(fits nice-n-snug)

So, I drilled some holes, in the bottom, for the wires & bolts
…& then, added some mounting "studs"

The wiring is super simple (doesn't even need a power supply)
...only has (2) signal/sensor terminals

It didn't come with directions or a wiring diagram so, I figured the (1) marked (-) must go to the battery pack negative (B-) side of the shunt (black wire)
…& the other (1) must go to "power draw" (P-) side of the shunt (yellow wire)
Outside of the fact that you should paint the can black, that fit is sick!
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  #185  
Old 10-02-2019, 07:55 PM
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Default 250 e-mile update

Well, I've got over 250 miles on 'er since the conversion to electric
…& I'm happy to report that (knock on wood) everything seems to be goin' good.

The bike runs great, is very nimble & has great acceleration
...like 0 to top speed (35MPH) in ~4 seconds

I gave everything a good "lookin' over"
...went around double checkin' the bolts
…greased the idler sprocket bearings
...& the inspected the sprockets (they still aren't showing any wear)

Then, I took 'er for a ride to get some data with the analog Amp meter.

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  #186  
Old 07-06-2020, 08:56 PM
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just temporarily putting my foot in the door to keep the thread open for a while

'sid
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  #187  
Old 07-08-2020, 09:40 AM
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El Moto has been running great.
...& I've got 'er up to almost 500 miles since the conversion
...but, the seat is well worn & cracked up a bit

So, I got a new seat cover (~$30.00 + ~$10.00 sh = ~$40.00)
...& gonna share/show you'all how I changed 'er

It's "hand made" (right here in the USA)
...& even comes with installation instructions (unlike MOST Chinese stuff)


1.) Removed the seat from the bike
2.) Removed the hardware (hinges, latch & tool kit)
3.) Removed the chrome "trim ring"
4.) Pried-up the triangle "tabs"
5.) Pulled the original cover up-n-off of the "tabs"
6.) Removed old cover

Then, simply reverse procedure

A couple of details

According to the "directions"
...it's best to "glue" the top surface of the seat cover, to the foam
(to help avoid shifting during installation)

I did a "dry fit" first, just to be sure everything "looked good"

I did a video to help explain the entire procedure

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Last edited by Functional Artist; 07-09-2020 at 06:20 AM.
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  #188  
Old 07-26-2020, 07:45 PM
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Default 500 E-mile update

Been doin' some ridin'
...& have now put ~500 miles on 'er since the conversion

She rolls out really well
...& the seat is a nice/comfortable upgrade

The batt pack has consistently stayed very well balanced
...& the sprockets are still not showing hardly any wear

Lately, I've noticed a bit of chain "slap" (against the chain guard) upon deceleration

So, I gave 'er a little adjustment
...& took 'er for a ride
...but, something didn't seem right

Took 'er back & did some investigating

Now, there seems to be a "tight" spot in the chain

Was it the chain?
...or maybe my DIY sprocket

Did some more investigating
...& the chain seemed fine

So, I turned my attention to the 45T sprocket on the rear wheel

When I spun it, everything looked fine (by eye)

I figured, let's get a bit more scientific about this

So, I set up a "pointer" type gauge (just a piece of coat hangar wire)
...& started off by setting the "point" right "flush" against the chain
...then, slowly rotated the tire

Sure enough, the gauge showed where my DIY sprocket was off (at the worst point) by maybe ~3/32"
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  #189  
Old 07-26-2020, 08:02 PM
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Ya it's tough to get it perfectly centered eh!? I did one for The Ditchbanger all by hand without any precision equipment and got it within 1/8" which hasn't caused me any headaches but I'm also not going the speeds you are!

El Moto is awesome! Another great job man!
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  #190  
Old 07-27-2020, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brianator View Post
Ya it's tough to get it perfectly centered eh!? I did one for The Ditchbanger all by hand without any precision equipment and got it within 1/8" which hasn't caused me any headaches but I'm also not going the speeds you are!

El Moto is awesome! Another great job man!
Thanks!

It (sprocket) worked well for 500 miles
...but, now I'm tryin' to "fine tune" things a bit
...& maybe go a bit faster too

So, I ordered a new sprocket

I got it from Surplus Center ($25.00)
https://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-...-1-1979-50.axd

HUBLESS 40 PITCH SPROCKET
Brand new, roller chain sprocket with center bore to fit weld on hubs.

SPECIFICATIONS
Pitch 40
Teeth 50
Outside Dia. 8.25"
Fits X series hubs (2" bore in sprocket)
Shpg 4 lbs.


So, this sprocket will lower my GR a bit (54T to a 50T) which should give me a bit more speed
...without sacrificing much acceleration or torque

Also, I'm gonna "pic my battles" with this

The center needs to be bored out
...& it also, needs the (4) mounting holes drilled

So, I'ma going to go ahead & have it professionally machined at a local shop

Below are some pics of the stock Kawasaki sprocket (45T 50 pitch)
...& my new (50T 40 pitch) sprocket
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  #191  
Old 08-01-2020, 03:19 PM
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I picked up my "new" sprocket from O-Bars Machine & Tool

Went ahead & sealed 'er up before installation

A couple coats of silver
...& then, a couple of coats of clear

After a good day of dryin', I switched 'em out
...but, the chain was pretty yucky
...& I can't put 'er back on like that
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  #192  
Old 08-03-2020, 07:28 AM
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The chain looks to be in good condition
...& only has ~500 miles on it

So, I gave 'er a "bath" in some standard, petroleum "cleaner"
(I guess, gas is good for something)

Let 'er "bask" in the sunshine for a while
(to allow most of the petroleum to evaporate" away")

I had ta remove (2) links to accommodate the smaller sprocket before re-installing it back on the bike
...then, got 'er on & adjusted up properly
...& finally, "lubed" 'er up with some PJ1 Blue Label Chain Lube

* This stuff is supposed to spray on kinda "liquidy"
(to penetrate in-between everything & up under the "rollers")
...& then kinda "thicken up"
(to act as a "seal" to block moisture, dirt & debris from gettin' "in the gaps")
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