yerf dog 3203 build
- Thread starter Harris528
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Hellion
Disc brakes are for cowards!
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Most people wouldn't bother with such a mod because the factory, direct-linkage is unlike anything else out there. I mean you can go full-lock with just a flick of the wrist, essentially.
The forum search engine is your friend. Regardless, welcome to the forum and don't forget to post some pics pronto. Show us what you're working with.
The forum search engine is your friend. Regardless, welcome to the forum and don't forget to post some pics pronto. Show us what you're working with.
Thanks for the reply and the welcome. I recently purchased this go-cart and have been working on building it. I'm pretty new to carts and trying to figure out what direction I want to go to get the most out of it. I'll keep digging through the forums to get some ideas.
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Denny
Canned Monster
Put a CVT on it.
panchothedog
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Harris, welcome to the forum. I've owned a couple of yerf-dogs, still have one of them. Front of your kart looks like one of your tie rods is way out of adjustment. I wouldn't go through the trouble and expense of putting a rack and pinion on it. Stock stuff works well enough when adjusted true. Do as suggested by Denny. Get rid of that clutch, and get a torque converter. Your 301 has a 1" output shaft . You can run a 40 series. They come with a 1" driver clutch . Most 30 series come with a 3/4" driver, but you can find 1" set ups . The reason I mention this is because the 30 series can be had for about 1/2 the
money of the 40, and are easier to get set up. If for any reason you are thinking about hopping up the 301, then for sure go with the 40. The 40 is much more robust and the 30 world be at its limit on a stock 301. Your centrifugal clutch that's on there now won't hold up for 10 minutes.
money of the 40, and are easier to get set up. If for any reason you are thinking about hopping up the 301, then for sure go with the 40. The 40 is much more robust and the 30 world be at its limit on a stock 301. Your centrifugal clutch that's on there now won't hold up for 10 minutes.
BrownStainRacing
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I used this kit on a dingo build with a stock 301, 18" tires, 5.4:1 gear.
It worked great, climbed the steepest hills and still hit 40 mph on flat level ground.
I had to use 1" square tubing under the engine to get it a lil higher.
I thought it was a perfect combo for a bone stock 301.
1" Bore Clutch Torque Converter Kit (Comet Series 30 TAV2 Replacement) - Go-Kart | eBay
Are you looking for a complete torque converter kit to replace the clutch on your go-kart or mini bike?. Luckily for you, we have all the parts and accessories you may need for your recreational vehicles.
www.ebay.com
Great, thanks for the info. I'll go ahead and purchase the Torque converter. I don't plan on doing a lot to the motor for performance since I am building this with my teenager. I will probably leave it governed also. I just want to build a good reliable kart that we can have fun on. We have about a mile-long gravel road to ride down. Some of it is hill and when I test drove the kart during purchase it struggled up the hill. The tie rods for sure have some bend. I have tried to straighten them out. When someone is sitting in the kart it looks much straighter. I may go ahead and purchase new tie rods for it. So far I have just purchased new springs and the seat belts for it. I look foward to sharing pics of the build here and appreciate the information.
Denny
Canned Monster
Also buy a Genuine Comet Belt for it!! Yes they are more expensive up front but will save you lots of money in the long run. The cheap belts will only last about 10 minutes each. The Comet should last all season! GoKart Supply has an excellent tutorial on measuring for belt length, and the care and feeding of the CVT system.
panchothedog
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Your tie rods are straight enough to use as is. There is a lot of adjustability between the two ends. With the torque converter in place your kart will fly up that hill. Be sure to come back and post some videos of your teenager grinning from ear to ear as they get a feel for the new power it's going to have.
I know it's been a while but I wanted to give an update on the kart. So far it has new brakes, new shocks, and a TAV2 30 series torque converter. I added some off-road lights and some harnesses. I'm still looking for a replacement seat but I have everything together and it runs great. It has no issues going uphill. I got it all put together right before Thanksgiving so I could take all the kids for a ride. Thanks for all the information.
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Denny
Canned Monster
Glad to see you got to ride it! Now go build a seat and make more memories with the kids!
panchothedog
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Glad to see your pictures and read your text. You are what we love to see. A rolling success story.
Hellion
Disc brakes are for cowards!
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I agree with Denny, you need a seat cushion for the seat back for ultimate comfort. You can make one or buy one.
As for wanting a rack and pinion steering setup, I didn't read you describe a problem with it but is it because you don't like the effort it takes to turn the steering wheel? I told another member with a similar kart to make sure the steering system (all the linkages & component parts) are lubricated regularly and if there is any binding in the steering system, find the problem and address it. A lot of used karts spend their lives outdoors so anything that can rust usually does, and that means the steering can get stiff from the rust in the joints, kingpins and spindles.
If it was me, I'd take off those ugly neon green 'pool noodles' and add black padding meant for UTVs/go karts....but that's just my personal taste...
P.S. I am not fond of the current tie rod ends on the kart, the ones connected to the wheel spindles. Prior experience with that type of ball and socket joint means that when it wears out, the socket pops off the ball leaving you with no steering. That could be a major problem if you were far from home on a remote trail. I prefer heim joints that have a "captive ball" type of swivel. Something like this:
https://www.bmikarts.com/516-24-Female-Tie-Rod-End_p_1475.html
Just something to think about upgrading.
As for wanting a rack and pinion steering setup, I didn't read you describe a problem with it but is it because you don't like the effort it takes to turn the steering wheel? I told another member with a similar kart to make sure the steering system (all the linkages & component parts) are lubricated regularly and if there is any binding in the steering system, find the problem and address it. A lot of used karts spend their lives outdoors so anything that can rust usually does, and that means the steering can get stiff from the rust in the joints, kingpins and spindles.
If it was me, I'd take off those ugly neon green 'pool noodles' and add black padding meant for UTVs/go karts....but that's just my personal taste...
P.S. I am not fond of the current tie rod ends on the kart, the ones connected to the wheel spindles. Prior experience with that type of ball and socket joint means that when it wears out, the socket pops off the ball leaving you with no steering. That could be a major problem if you were far from home on a remote trail. I prefer heim joints that have a "captive ball" type of swivel. Something like this:
https://www.bmikarts.com/516-24-Female-Tie-Rod-End_p_1475.html
Just something to think about upgrading.
Now that the new shocks are on and everything has been adjusted it steers much better than it did. I would really like to find the original seat and padding that came on the kart but they do seem to be tough to find. I have been keeping an eye out for them on eBay. The neon green noodles were on there when I got it but agree they are ugly. Motor wise I don't plan to really do any more upgrades maybe an exhaust or something. I think I'll be looking to replace the tires soon. The tie rod ends are a great idea and at that price, I'll go ahead and order those. I plan to just work on it through the winter season and have it all together by the time Spring comes so any ideas on what direction I should go are greatly appreciated and I will continue to post some updates as I go along. Thanks
Hellion
Disc brakes are for cowards!
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I told the other guy in the "Yerf Dog thoughts" thread that go kart steering generally sucks, but only if you're a weakling lol. I also told him to mind the tire pressures on the front wheels as the lower the PSI gets, the harder-to-turn the steering will be.
I just used those as an example. I have no idea if they will fit your tie rods or if they have the same threads. Measure, inspect, use a thread gauge to determine what you have (or use a known size nut--if it threads onto your tie rod rods, then you'll know what size tie rod ends to buy).
I just used those as an example. I have no idea if they will fit your tie rods or if they have the same threads. Measure, inspect, use a thread gauge to determine what you have (or use a known size nut--if it threads onto your tie rod rods, then you'll know what size tie rod ends to buy).
Denny
Canned Monster
I doubt you’re going to find an original seat. But what you could do that would fool most people is look for seat material from a popular brand like Manco and build a seat to suit. BMI, MFG Supply, Go Kart Supply, OMB, and on and on may carry the seat covers to do this with.
Hellion
Disc brakes are for cowards!
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BAM! https://www.gopowersports.com/yerf-dog-carter-go-kart-double-seat-cushion/
I'm not saying to buy it, not saying it fits, it sure isn't "original" (it's a repop) and it doesn't have the Yerf Dog gray color or paw print logo but it might fit the kart in question. MEASURE.
Denny
Canned Monster
Looks good to me!