Upgraded my 212 so what’s next?

karl

karl

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Functional Artist said:
Still, no one has posted a price list or total cost for a 212 upgrade? :huh:
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Thanks for the write up!
Generally for a "stage 4" 212cc kit this is what your looking it, should
be competitive with your ride

Stage 4 kit, include ready to bolt on cylinder head - $552
Flatslide 24mm carb - $202
Billet Flywheel - $108
Clutch, tank, misc - $300
Base motor - $120

$1,282 , not far off! Im impressed!

But big block power is way more affordable, the 15.8hp 459cc predator
is $480 at harbor freight right now, pair that with a 40 series and
it will do the same or more than the stage 4 motor.

​

 
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Denny

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459 Predator a rod and flywheel, cam and valve springs and a 40 series cvt will get you much more than 45 mph for hours on end and still have $500.00 left over for gas, oil and lunch!
 
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WillMatrix

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Kartin’ kid said:
My thoughts exactly! When I was building my first ever kart I originally wanted to do electric. I ordered all the parts, had them all arrive then did a little research. Found out that I could double my horsepower for half the price and made the switch to gas
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My predator is reaching 6400-6800k RPM is that good and to be expected from this specific engine build
 
madprofessor

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Obviously you had the head off at some point in the build. What did you do for a head gasket when putting it back together?
One of the cheapest and best cost/reward ratio changes you can make on a 212 hemi is replacing the stock head gasket with a .012" or even .010" stainless steel head gasket for an appreciable increase in compression.
Amazing that nobody has mentioned it. Closest thing is Pancho talking about having the head machined down. Whatever you do, from thinner head gasket to different head, do a squish test every time that you change anything about the valve action. Some Play-Doh on the piston will tell you how much clearance you have to keep the valves and piston from colliding.
 
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WillMatrix

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madprofessor said:
Obviously you had the head off at some point in the build. What did you do for a head gasket when putting it back together?
One of the cheapest and best cost/reward ratio changes you can make on a 212 hemi is replacing the stock head gasket with a .012" or even .010" stainless steel head gasket for an appreciable increase in compression.
Amazing that nobody has mentioned it. Closest thing is Pancho talking about having the head machined down. Whatever you do, from thinner head gasket to different head, do a squish test every time that you change anything about the valve action. Some Play-Doh on the piston will tell you how much clearance you have to keep the valves and piston from colliding.
Click to expand...
I have heard of the play doh tip but I don’t know exactly what I’m looking for. Any video or illustration on this tip
 
karl

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madprofessor said:
One of the cheapest and best cost/reward ratio changes you can make on a 212 hemi is replacing the stock head gasket with a .012" or even .010" stainless steel head gasket for an appreciable increase in compression.
Click to expand...
With the large volume of the hemi head, the thin head gasket makes almost no difference .

I doubt anybody would notice a change from the stock 8.5 to 1 vs 8.6 to 1.

When you start dealing with smaller chamber heads, think sub 16cc, a thin gasket
can make a substantial change, almost a full point on a 14cc head.

One day you should try to CC a head with a plate and syringe, and calculate the engines compression ratio.
Knowing your engines compression ratio before and after mods/ swaps is quite nice.
 
madprofessor

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karl said:
One day you should try to CC a head with a plate and syringe, and calculate the engines compression ratio.
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I've always wanted to do that just for the experience. Just need to watch some video on how to and how far to add the oil to fill it up. Seen it before on a show, just a little bit in the dark, will figure it out.
 
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WillMatrix

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madprofessor said:
I've always wanted to do that just for the experience. Just need to watch some video on how to and how far to add the oil to fill it up. Seen it before on a show, just a little bit in the dark, will figure it out.
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That sounds so complicated lol. Would it be a crime to use gasket maker? I ripped my original gasket
 
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panchothedog

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For a head gasket you should use a manufactured head gasket. It's not like you're trying to prevent oil from seaping out. Even on these little engines there is a lot of pressure on the power stroke. When you BUY your head gaskets
order more than one. They are cheap and if you are into hopping up engines
as it seems that you are you will probably go through several.
 
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WillMatrix

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panchothedog said:
For a head gasket you should use a manufactured head gasket. It's not like you're trying to prevent oil from seaping out. Even on these little engines there is a lot of pressure on the power stroke. When you BUY your head gaskets
order more than one. They are cheap and if you are into hopping up engines
as it seems that you are you will probably go through several.
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Most definitely but I was referring to the side cover gasket and valve cover gasket.
 
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panchothedog

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Here is a non answer to your question of there ever was one. I have had four non hemi heads milled .050" to . 055" and all have worked great. Just this morning I picked up my 301cc hemi head from the machine shop that I had them cut .030" . Went with that number because of the canted valve angle probably bringing the valve closer to the piston on its lowest edge, and also if I went too far I don't know where I could buy another 301 head. In other words
I am kind of CHICKEN. On the 212cc engines heads, both stock and after market are plentiful so a screw up wouldn't be nearly as bad. I know you never want to go more than the first cooling fin which is probably about .060-.065" .
Aside from that how much lift your cam has is going to be a governing factor.
H
 
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