Type of Kart

Messages
45
Reaction score
1
Location
Worcester, Mass.
Looking at this kart, is this an R1? Comes with a McCulloch racing engine, seat and floor mat.
 

Attachments

  • 1F2A9611-3633-484E-AFF3-7B46D8A27167.jpg
    1F2A9611-3633-484E-AFF3-7B46D8A27167.jpg
    170.6 KB · Views: 25
  • 9A689268-EC16-4B33-A4F5-88D504ED3A8E.jpg
    9A689268-EC16-4B33-A4F5-88D504ED3A8E.jpg
    165.7 KB · Views: 20
  • C8013CB9-0212-4D27-A6FA-E1CC41D9C2C0.jpg
    C8013CB9-0212-4D27-A6FA-E1CC41D9C2C0.jpg
    132 KB · Views: 15
  • 8E700504-26F4-41E9-9DBD-82C836E058B2.jpg
    8E700504-26F4-41E9-9DBD-82C836E058B2.jpg
    143.5 KB · Views: 20

JTSpeedDemon

2019 Build Off Winner!
Messages
4,026
Reaction score
147
Location
Texas
Get it! :2guns:

That thing looks AWESOME! And with the Mac, too! :eek:

The rear gas tanks are intriguing, and the yellow wheels. Sid, are those wheels original?
 

itsid

Moderator
Staff member
Messages
11,564
Reaction score
115
Location
Ruhrpott [Germany]
Get it! :2guns:
....
The rear gas tanks are intriguing, and the yellow wheels. Sid, are those wheels original?
tanks? what tanks...
there's ONE (on the backside of the seat)

Anyways, wheels are tri stars.. period correct but not first choice I guess,
go power would be the go to wheel for McCulloch karts IIRC.
some magnesium wheels for sure not aluminium ;)
The yellow colour though (especially on the chassis) seems to be the original
(all McCulloch karts were yellow..)

Anyways, that's a rare vintage race kart.. and a beutiful at that..
I wouldn't wait a second to buy it.
(especially if it comes with an engine... if I can afford it I'd have it already ;))

'sid
 

itsid

Moderator
Staff member
Messages
11,564
Reaction score
115
Location
Ruhrpott [Germany]
well half is engine mount half is chassis mount..
the entire rear (axle, engines, brake etc..) is swappable

so you can easily hook up the gas line and the throttle and brake cable to swap between setups
(single engine, twin engine.. according to regulations, not having to dial in chain tension, axle adjustment etc..)
the rest are four nuts to self locating bolts

No there's no real benefit to that..
other than the rubber mounted vibration dampening of the entire rear
(as Rupp did with the torsion chassis)

'sid

great promotional video for that kart from 1961 explaining the details:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=qORsk6wGlDY
 
Messages
45
Reaction score
1
Location
Worcester, Mass.
Jumping ahead a little, is there a way to remove the red paint and keep the original underneath?

---------- Post added at 10:48 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:30 AM ----------

Thanks for the informational video.
 

itsid

Moderator
Staff member
Messages
11,564
Reaction score
115
Location
Ruhrpott [Germany]
maybe yes..
the karts were powder coated originally IIRC..
so a mild paint stripper should be able to grab the paint but not the coat.
powder coat is plastic though..
so any heat or 'matching' solvent will also remove the powder coat.


but I assume it was repainted because the original coat began to chip...
I'd try on the 'worst' spots and see how bad the chipping was..
then decide if I leave it chipped (adding some clear coat to stop rust)
or have it blasted and re powdercoated in he original colour
(I think it's still the same yellow today McCulloch uses)

'sid
 

itsid

Moderator
Staff member
Messages
11,564
Reaction score
115
Location
Ruhrpott [Germany]
that linkage is original (being part of the rearmount),
it eases the swap I was talking about earlier..
just disconnect the right side link, swap, and go

'sid
 
Messages
45
Reaction score
1
Location
Worcester, Mass.
Bought the kart, has an mc101b engine with it.
•MERGED•
Is this a Mcculloch engine?
•MERGED•
Any ideas on this rust on right side of frame? Ed
 

Attachments

  • 54C4FF38-066D-45F9-A34C-9134C6277E82.jpg
    54C4FF38-066D-45F9-A34C-9134C6277E82.jpg
    302.5 KB · Views: 19
  • 4E5781F7-6791-4C9B-90FD-DE7C92F5A490.jpg
    4E5781F7-6791-4C9B-90FD-DE7C92F5A490.jpg
    281.7 KB · Views: 18
  • 2FE1F68E-8427-466D-9432-A48EA6372D57.jpg
    2FE1F68E-8427-466D-9432-A48EA6372D57.jpg
    281.7 KB · Views: 11
  • 1879A638-F03C-4D37-A5BD-37BE400C52A2.jpg
    1879A638-F03C-4D37-A5BD-37BE400C52A2.jpg
    336.3 KB · Views: 16
Last edited by a moderator:

itsid

Moderator
Staff member
Messages
11,564
Reaction score
115
Location
Ruhrpott [Germany]
engine seems to be legit (i'd trust the sticker for now)


that rust needs carefull treatment...

IMHO take it all apart to the last nut and bolt,
and find an car restoration shop whichoffers acid bathing the chassis.
if you can't find any, find someone that can medium blast the frame..
talk to the guy what medium would suit the chassis best
(walnut might be a bit too gentle.. sand a bit too harsh... aluminium perhaps? ..he'll know I hope)
acid is less agressive on non rusted parts and leaves a better surface than sand blasting,
more like walnut shells...

then and only then is when you can decide on how to fix that.
I think it might be patchable
no matter what you need a perfect matching tube section
same material/diameter/wallthickness and bend radiuses/angles
if patchable you can cut the affected bits off that tube section and weld that in.
which I think would be the prefered repair here.
but as soon as there's more than half of the outer circumference affected,
I'd replace the tube section entirely.
That is a bit more difficult though, since you can't plug both ends..
even one plug might be tricky already.
and thus perfectly locating the tube section might be difficult.

then after patching all the chassis and grinding then sanding the welds flush and clean,
it'd be time to add powder coating again.

the full chassis treatment because
a) it's a kart that is worth the effort in a full restoration
b) you do not want to miss a nasty spot just to start over again next season
c) while it does cost a good amount of money to do this right,
it's still cheaper than doing it twice
d) and lastly: documented repairs like that pay off if you ever intend to resell that thing to a collector.


'sid
 
Messages
45
Reaction score
1
Location
Worcester, Mass.
Thanks Sid, I did not really look it over when buying, was just so excited, sort of bummed when I saw that rust area. I’ll call around and see if I can find someone to do the work. Thanks for your guidance.0
 

itsid

Moderator
Staff member
Messages
11,564
Reaction score
115
Location
Ruhrpott [Germany]
"Metal strip of new england" in franklin street?

Well Worcester,MA is correct, right?
you're not in the UK (original Worcester)
or down in South Africa, right? (some other clone worcester)

'sid
 
Messages
45
Reaction score
1
Location
Worcester, Mass.
Thanks Sid for your analysis, much appreciated. I was so excited, I didn’t look it over as well but either way I’m happy I bought it. I’ll call around to find someone. Thanks again for your help! Ed

---------- Post added at 11:30 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:29 AM ----------

Worcester, Mass

---------- Post added at 11:50 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:30 AM ----------

I have a feeling that Metal Stripping of New England is out of business. A lot of pros and cons to acid dipping vs media blasting? Ed
 

itsid

Moderator
Staff member
Messages
11,564
Reaction score
115
Location
Ruhrpott [Germany]
IDK what you paid,
but as I said if it would've been within my reach (distance and price)
I would've gone for it for sure ;)
And when it's stored outside like that rust was to be expected tbh

Now, pros and cons..
sure; both can be done incorrectly and cause unnecessary damage.
done correctly both only remove what needs to go (old paint and rust)
and leave the rest mostly unaffected.

media blasting depends mostly on the media itself,
the faster something removes paint and rust, the more aggressive it is on the good parts as well, leaves a rough surface finish that you might need to take care of before coating or paint.
And blasting media might not be able to reach all nooks and crannies as easily
and it might get trapped in other nooks and crannies afterwards.
So a broken frame (rusted through) might catch blasting media but not get internally cleaned.
same for the tank.
A good operator can only do so much to work around that.
It's quick and leaves a bit of passive media on the chassis at worst
but it's not suitable for most "inside" areas, those have to be taken care of seperately afterwards.

an acid bath is more thorough IMHO, since it can enter the frame tubes
through the holes and if rotated in the bath can even remove internal rust
(like in the tank, or the chassis tubes etc)
it is also dependend on how good the operator is, preventing trapped air bubbles and such.
Afterwards that acid has to be neutralized.. which is another bath essentially, that has to be taken as seriously as the acid one.
A good operator is key.. he flushes all the chassis with acid to reach all the nasty insides, and flushes and neutralizes the exact same way.
so no further step needed.. it also leaves a much smoother surface on all good metals

BUT a careless operator can leave the insides unteated (air bubbles) or worse can leave the acid un-neutralized, which would make the inside rust even quicker than before the next chance humidity gets.

Acid for me clearly wins but you need a trustworthy shop to have it done
Media blasting is easier so even a mediocre operator can still get a good result.
you just have to spend more time on post processing.
taing care of the insides, and missed spots manually.. polishing potential blasting marks etc.

I doubt there's much differences in price really..
since media blasting is usually expensive because of the wasted blasting medium and causing more man hours;
and chemical dipping is usually expensive since it requires more legal paperwork and training.
so in the end it should be about the same really.
Unless they're specialized on Trucks.. in which case they need a ton of chemicals to fill bath and a ton of energy to heat it to operating temperatures.

motorbike restoration... a tub for a bike frame should be big enough for a go kart I think.
check if you find one of those .. since they usually run smaller tubs,
they might charge a bit less (less heat required, less chemicals per tub filling...)

'sid
 
Top