I appreciate you bro, I’m probably gonna invest in that multimeter, I bought one last week but it’s all digital and difficult for no reason. Also the stripper I completely forgot existed and definitely will be getting lol I’ve been using a small knife inside of a multi tool and it’s been aggravating at best. I’ve just gotta figure out how to wire it up so I’m not messing up anything else in the process, apparently it’s a simple concept but me being me nothing can just be easy
Yea, knives can work, its just a little neater with the stripper, and less likelt to cut wires.
I appreciate you bro, I’m probably gonna invest in that multimeter, I bought one last week but it’s all digital and difficult for no reason. Also the stripper I completely forgot existed and definitely will be getting lol I’ve been using a small knife inside of a multi tool and it’s been aggravating at best. I’ve just gotta figure out how to wire it up so I’m not messing up anything else in the process, apparently it’s a simple concept but me being me nothing can just be easy
No worries! Those digital multi-meters definitely have some important uses, but they are beyond what I have needed so far for fixing cars/doing home remodels. Just set your center dial to the top left at the "20" mark, and you will be good to go for automotive work. I forget what all the other ones are, and I read somewhere to put it on the 20, and that works for me. I believe its just adjusting the sensitivity so you don't fry the internals.
From my understanding, you can think of an electrical system like a big circuit/circle/route. You can add new electrical devices to that route via tieing into the wiring. You need to make sure you are using the correct voltage for whatever device/crap you are adding. Aka 110v vs 220v (house), 6v (old motorcycles), 12v most cars, and 24v (some military/aircraft). Kill the power, cut your line, strip your wires of your circuit, strip your wires for whatever you are adding, and connect the positive side to the positive line, and negative to the negative (hence the multimeter). Make sure you don't have any "naked" metal as electricity can jump from there to other objects (hence short circuit/ground fault arc (GFCI)). It depends on what you are wiring in, but often times your colors/polarity don't matter for what you are adding. Light bulbs for example will light up regardless of what direction their current is running as they simply heat up a little electrode that gets bright, super simpel. But some mechanical tools/devices need to be wired in a specific direction so that the current rotates/operates a device in a specific direction. This is the case if you turn something on, and it runs directly opposite to what you want. But you can also fry some items if you hook them up backwards (ask how I know), hence the need for fuses as a fail-safe (also ask how I know, haha). Regardless, the wire in your circuit is what actually has electricity flowing through it. More wire, less electricity per unity of wire, this can be problematic if you have super long stands of wire in a circuit (super long extension cords on a small generator for example). Current flows through the wire, and whatever device you have simply changes some of that electrical energy to either mechanical energy, potential energy, electromagnetic (aka light), or others. What is left simply flows back into the line, and back into the circuit. You can see this if you mess around with a volt meter. Put your positive and negative on your car battery while its off. Have a friend start the car. While the alternator is running, your voltage will drop drastically.
You should check out "Electrical T-connections", those are cool fittings (I just found out about them), as they create a branch off of your main line. If your electrical component fails, your main line is still good as its still connected to the main circuit, aka the electricity, can still "flow". But, if you wire everything up "in-line" If something fails, everything else after it won't operate as the electricity can flow through whatever device you have connected. This sometimes happens in houses. If a wall outlet dies/something internal gets fried, everything after it on its branch, won't work. Find the broken item closest to your main circuit/run, swap it out, and everything else after it will work. Now that I am thinking about it, whatever lights you are running should "T" off of whatever line you are tieing into. Your switch is just opening and closing the connections of the device you are running. It should go: Main power wires from your cart, Fuse, Switch, Lights/electrical device. You could just run a line off of the battery as well. Downside of tieing into too small of a line is that you might need a bigger current to supply your device than whatever line you are tieing into. In that case you could run a line off of your battery. In a house this is the same as having a dedicated circuit for different areas of your house.
