Tillotson 225

JTSpeedDemon

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Welp, the Tillotson 225 finally rolled in!:cool:
https://www.gopowersports.com/225cc-tillotson-performance-engine/
And the long block:
https://www.gopowersports.com/225rs-tillotson-long-block/

It is $750 for the full engine. Crazy! But at the same time, a Stage 4 engine is about $875, before the performance kit has been optioned out.
So, actually, this is a true bargain crate engine.

Here's what GPS says:

Introducing the all new 225cc Tillotson Performance Engine package from GoPowerSports. This is not your run of the mill engine, this is a bored, stroked, and clearanced RACING engine designed for high RPM and high HP. If you have a mini bike, go-kart or drift trike and are wanting more power on the cheap, then look no further! This is the engine for you!

Engine Break Down:

72mm Tillotson Block (extra webbing, bracing, and thicker material is built into the casting producing a superior block to any other)
Bore : 72mm / 2.835"
Stroker Crank : 56mm / 2.205"
265 Lift Tillotson Racing Cam (wide power band, great for mini bikes and yard-karts, equipped with compression release)
Billet Rod with bearings
Forged, Lightweight Racing Piston
Tillotson Race Head (Large Ports)
27mm Intake Valve
25mm Exhaust Valve
26lb Valve Springs
Heavy Duty Retainers with Automotive style keepers
22mm AfterMarket Mikuni Carburetor kit (jetting and tuning will be close but some adjustment may be required)
Tillotson Racing Coil
ARC Billet Flywheel (standard fin length)

CAUTION!!!! This engine is not for young or inexperienced drivers. These engines are shipped with NO OIL. We recommend a high quality oil designed for splash oil systems such as Thor Oil or AmsOil 4T to provide better protection. Always keep 16 ounces of oil in the engine while in use. This is a performance RACE engine package, some assembly is required such as exhaust. *Block does not have tabs for mounting a fuel tank.

THIS PACKAGE DOES NOT COME WITH AN EXHAUST UNLESS YOU SELECT A HEADER PIPE FROM THE DROP DOWN MENU.

Break in required!

Premium gas or equivalent required.



Bored/stroked/clearanced with a racing head already sells it to me.

It seems a little wacky that they say it's been ported, but it comes with a Mikuni 22mm?? Seems like a restriction, and there's no carb options. Unless you get the long block, then you get to partially build it.

I would upload pics for reference, but my usual method isn't working for some reason.*shrug*

Sounds pretty neat!
Flyinhillbilly! When are you gonna get one of these to play with???;)
 

Flyinhillbilly

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I’ve looked at those and it seems like a pretty good deal, but they’re not quite hot enough to keep up in the kind of racing that I do.
That’s the same block I’m using for my new build, but with quite a bit less stroke. I’m in love with that block, it’s beefy. I think that would be a great engine for most people, but we squeeze every ounce of power we can out of them, and sadly, the block is all I’d really be able to use from that package. My new head is going to cost as much as that whole motor.
 

JTSpeedDemon

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JS, he does Open dirt oval racing(no engine mod rules:stir:)
For everyday thrashing and some mild racing, that engine would probably be plenty of power! But yes, probably too mild for Open Modified.
It'd probably need a hotter cam, head, and probably methanol to be able to keep up at all in OM.
Big blocks are great for ridiculous amounts of power, but there's not quite as many performance parts as small blocks, not to mention the noise factor.
To me, big blocks rule the torque department, but small blocks have mod capability to rev higher, plus they're physically smaller. It's all a matter of preference.
 

Kartorbust

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I think that mod options are only limited to certain brands for big blocks. You can get the same mods for small and big blocks, just one engine make might get more than another. Small blocks are more popular with kart racing. Big blocks are more common for off roaders and the mower racers.
 

Flyinhillbilly

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JS, he does Open dirt oval racing(no engine mod rules:stir:)
For everyday thrashing and some mild racing, that engine would probably be plenty of power! But yes, probably too mild for Open Modified.
It'd probably need a hotter cam, head, and probably methanol to be able to keep up at all in OM.
Big blocks are great for ridiculous amounts of power, but there's not quite as many performance parts as small blocks, not to mention the noise factor.
To me, big blocks rule the torque department, but small blocks have mod capability to rev higher, plus they're physically smaller. It's all a matter of preference.
Exactly.
The 225rs seems like it’s meant to me a “spec mod” to me. Kind of a spec motor for racing that would be way more entertaining than stock clones. The parts list is better than most guys “built”engines,and I’m impressed with the Tillotson 196r so I expect that this would exceed most people’s expectations.
 

J.S.@SMS

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There are some pretty good performance parts for big blocks (ex, stage 2 kits) an there are bigger carburetors out there (34mm mikuni for the gx390 and pred 420) which are for big blocks. Also, with more torque you can gear numerically lower, and make up for lost rpm. And if 500ci big block v8's have to be governed to 10,500 rpm, then someday these engines will too. Just not with me on one. One good question I just thought of, are v-twins, like the 670s allowed in that class, or is it one cylinders only? And is there a maximum allowed displacement?
 

Flyinhillbilly

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You can run anything you want. Literally no rules. I’m building a 244cc small block now that will have a custom built, tunnel port Gage warhead with a 34/28 valve setup, custom machined combustion chamber, and a 34mm flat slide carb on 30% nitromethane. It should be really strong and a 10-11,000 rpm motor.
I plan on documenting the build on my YouTube and posting it here.
 

Kartorbust

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That is really Outlaw! I guess it's just pocket books that stop people from racing v-twins more often at these events. Do they allow engines with oil coolers though? I mean a "No Rules" usually has some asterisks or caveats to it. Someone comes out with a bored 0.040 670, huge automotive oil cooler, nitro methane engine. Unlimited sounds fun, but man that will get stupid expensive fast.
 

Flyinhillbilly

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A big part of what limits the size of the engines is weight and how it affects handling. You can have all the power in the world, but if you can’t keep up around the corners then you don’t have a chance. My home track has no rules for this class, and no asterisks. The track owner will look you straight in the eyes and tell you that if you think you can drive it, then you’re welcome to bring it.
We’re racing on a 1/10 mile dirt oval, so the corners are more important than the power. That why small block clones dominate that class.
 

bob58o

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You can run anything you want. Literally no rules. I’m building a 244cc small block now that will have a custom built, tunnel port Gage warhead with a 34/28 valve setup, custom machined combustion chamber, and a 34mm flat slide carb on 30% nitromethane. It should be really strong and a 10-11,000 rpm motor.
I plan on documenting the build on my YouTube and posting it here.

Who is doing the head and/or block? Is this going to be another head from Gary?
 

KartFab

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A 22mm mikuni isn’t a restriction if you know anything about how much flow these Honda /clone heads actually have.
 

JTSpeedDemon

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I've actually calculated how much CFM these kart engines need at redline.
At 5400 RPM, for a 206cc engine, it'll draw, or at least want, something around 17 CFM.
I only found this out recently, and yeah, thinking back, a VM22 is probably enough.
 

Flyinhillbilly

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Who is doing the head and/or block? Is this going to be another head from Gary?

The head is being done by Charles Mosley, probably better known as Minidragbike. It’s going to be a 34/28 valve arrangement with 34mm intake port. It has to be welded to be ported that far, so I’m glad he agreed to do it. The block is a Tillotson 72mm that will be sporting a +.175 ARC super alloy crank and a custom cam speced by Charles. We’re looking at around 115 cfm. I’m going to use a 34mm Clements flat slide on it, and of course a healthy dose of nitro. I’m hoping to make some pretty good power.
 

bob58o

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The head is being done by Charles Mosley, probably better known as Minidragbike. It’s going to be a 34/28 valve arrangement with 34mm intake port. It has to be welded to be ported that far, so I’m glad he agreed to do it. The block is a Tillotson 72mm that will be sporting a +.175 ARC super alloy crank and a custom cam speced by Charles. We’re looking at around 115 cfm. I’m going to use a 34mm Clements flat slide on it, and of course a healthy dose of nitro. I’m hoping to make some pretty good power.

I read the same stuff as you on FB. I kinda thought Charles when I read your post, but knew you went with Gary before. I hope it’s awesome! Let the Big Dog eat.!!!
 

Flyinhillbilly

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I’ve been very happy with what Gary has done for me, and I’ve won a lot of races with his heads. I only lost two races all year, and that was because of handling issues, I had the field covered on power every time out. I’d go with Gary again, but this build is about pushing it to the limit for a 14.5 ci motor, and no one pushes it to the limit better than Charles.
 

Mrmonk7663

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Does Gary do milder stuff? I’d like to get a head done with bigger valves 28/25 37lb springs and titanium retainers. Ported and shaved. NR racing sells an oem 18cc Honda head like this but not sure if there is a better option. Would use a >.300 lift cam. Flush deck piston. Etc.
 

Flyinhillbilly

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He’ll do whatever you want. He’s very good with these heads and is constantly working to be even better. He worked with gage motor sports to help develop the warhead 2 along with some other heavy hitters. He’s also always been very affordable in my opinion. If you want to hit him up PM me and I can tell you how to get in touch with him.
 

Mercado

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Hi i m new here and i need some tips can i used all the parts from a hemi block on that 72mm block and maj
Ke a 72x55 engine or the parts are not interchange able

---------- Post added at 07:07 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:06 AM ----------

Or could my hemi be bore to .080 and still be safe for race and with out having any overheat issuse
 
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