It's a pain in the @ss! Pry bars and or very large screw drivers does the trick. Just keep working around the rim without putting to much pressure to damage the rim. Even some PB Blaster or other oil first around the bead, and let penetrate a day before trying helps a lot.
Streaker S465 live axle resto
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BaconBitRacing
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I’ll hit with oil in the morning then work it later on. It’s gonna take awhile, I can tell. Course this wheel is already trashed, so I can’t make it worse, but I have possibly 3 good wheels that will need to have tires removed.
Denny
Canned Monster
Run the tire over with your car to break the bead. Not the rim! Just the tire. You may have to put a board on the tire to get it close enough to the rim. If the tire isn’t too wide you can also use a big bench vice. Or do like I did. Buy a few tire machines, a Coats 20/20 and a Horror Freight!
BaconBitRacing
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Alright @BrownStainRacing, here’s the lockers so far. To torque I need a solid mount and it’s currently raining so I can’t right now. Probably could use a bolt and hole on the other side but I’ll get to that soon ‘nuff.
BaconBitRacing
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Torque wrench set to spec 17ft/lbs on side cover…
@BrownStainRacing
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BaconBitRacing
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Top left. It felt like it kept rotating, then I heard a bang, backed it out and hoped and prayed it wasn’t split… I was lucky all things considered.
BaconBitRacing
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So… best course of action is back out all bolts, get a thread tap for the correct size and pitch, new bolts all the way around?
BrownStainRacing
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17 ft/lbs is not that much. My 1/4" impact is 14-17. I use it on assembly, then check with torq wrench, most will take a hair of a turn before clicking the wrench.
You might wanna check it on other bolts to give you an idea. I got a 1/4" thats way low in inch lbs.
You caught it in time.
Put a washer under it.
Check crank end play after you get them torqued.
BrownStainRacing
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BaconBitRacing
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How to check crank end play? I’ll pick up some new bolts, they say 8.8, is that grade 5 in metric?
BrownStainRacing
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I have no idea about the grade, I've got so many from old take offs.
Jus grap the crank, push it in, pull it out.
If it doesn't move, it's too tight, will cause alot of heat and drag. Too loose will beat the side cover loose, and wear the sides of the connecting rod.
You can use the end of dial calibers to check. .010"-.012" is the sweet spot. A lil more is fine for breaking in on a test stand. .020" is when i start seeing problems.
BaconBitRacing
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Okay, I knew I'd have to get some calipers sometime
What to do if there is no play? Sorry for the constant questions, but I want this thing to last and I may build some in the future, so I want to get it right.
BrownStainRacing
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Okay, I knew I'd have to get some calipers sometime
What to do if there is no play? Sorry for the constant questions, but I want this thing to last and I may build some in the future, so I want to get it right.
No Play is too tight. Not good.
If you got a GOOD eye, you can find a blemish somewhere on the crank and use that as a mark to measure from, using feeler gauges.
BaconBitRacing
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So if it has no play you're stuck? Anything you can do?No Play is too tight. Not good.
If you got a GOOD eye, you can find a blemish somewhere on the crank and use that as a mark to measure from, using feeler gauges.
BrownStainRacing
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@BaconBitRacing
If it's too tight, I would definitely be questioning the torque wrench.
New boxed predators, are always on the loose side, .015"-.030". That's fine for a gov'ed, back yard fun time, toy.
The only time i see them too tight, is when some dummy took out the gasket and used silicone or permatex, or the bolts were over tightened and sqashed the gasket.
The gasket thickness and bolt torque, is what gives it the end play. Gasket and shims to get it into spec.
If it's too tight, I would definitely be questioning the torque wrench.
New boxed predators, are always on the loose side, .015"-.030". That's fine for a gov'ed, back yard fun time, toy.
The only time i see them too tight, is when some dummy took out the gasket and used silicone or permatex, or the bolts were over tightened and sqashed the gasket.
The gasket thickness and bolt torque, is what gives it the end play. Gasket and shims to get it into spec.
BaconBitRacing
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Just asking all the questions now, I'll check tomorrow. I'm not even sure why those gasket sealer exist, probably just for people who don't clean the surface then it doesn't seal. Thanks
BrownStainRacing
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No problem. Ask all you want and need.
It don't have to be built to nascar specs, but getting it close without spending money on it, is always a plus
If its too tight, you can use 2 gaskets, but that usally always needs crank shims.
When 2 gaskets are needed, somebody has done a major change somewhere. Crank bearings, side cover, custom crank something like that.
Side cover gaskets come in different thicknesses.
I use the black ones or green ones. I can reuse those suckas 3 or 4 times. Makes it nice for testing different cams
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