Sprocket, Clutch, Chain Advice

Ol’National

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So, building a trail crawling deal out of an old National mowing co mower, one of them golf coarse mowers, Trying to use a big chain, a 520, used on some of the GSXR bikes, it’s powered by a 301 harbor freight engine, 1”shaft. Can’t find a clutch that can run a chain that big, I need some ideas on how to run something that big, or if I even need something that big to hill climb, crawl over trees and what not. What would be a good chain size? Would it be more logical to use a torque converter instead?
 

Hellion

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Don't use that chain. There are clutches made with a 1" bore, so use the chain that matches the clutch; usually a #40/41/420
chain.

Then again, hill climbing IS the domain of the Torq-A-Verter. That's the Comet brand name.
 

madprofessor

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The 1/2" pitch chains Hellion mentioned, #40, #41, #420 are all heavy duty enough for a 420cc, so absolutely enough for a 301cc.
Check out the page link below for a chart showing the differences in chains, and note the roller width on #40 chain. It's 1/16" wider than #41 and #420, so that chain can be used on all 3 sprockets. Inversely though, a #40 sprocket is too big for #41 and #420 chains, so just stay away from #40 anything if you can do so.
Some chains are listed as being all 3 sizes, and that's okay like I said, but definitely avoid the #40 sprockets. There's plenty of other stuff out there.
Chain for Go Kart, Mini Bike | GoKarts USA®
 

Hellion

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Never seen a fella start with a chain first and try to build his vehicle around it...until now. :ROFLMAO:
 

Ol’National

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Thanks for the help you guys. It’s originally belt driven. Should we convert to chain driven like we planned or stay belt driven? I’m worried belts are going to slip.
 

Millwright

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I have a Polaris ATV. It's belt driven and the belt is enclosed in a water tight compartment. I got water in it once, and it was completely useless until I had it dry again. I was thinking this must be a problem for all the guys using the torque converters on their trail buggy. I'm assuming most are not enclosed that well?
 

Hellion

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I have a Polaris ATV. It's belt driven and the belt is enclosed in a water tight compartment. I got water in it once, and it was completely useless until I had it dry again. I was thinking this must be a problem for all the guys using the torque converters on their trail buggy. I'm assuming most are not enclosed that well?

I guess it wasn't waterproof was it? 😀

Some people run their belt drive units/TAVs (Torq-A-Verter) with the housing off and some with it on. It's basically to keep fingers, toes, shoelaces and assorted trail debris out of the whirring assembly and does not provide much water resistance at all.

Some TAVs have a fan blade mounted to the driver and with the TAV cover in place, it helps keep the cooling air circulating.
Have not seen one set up like that in a long time.

I would not recommend using a TAV in water.
 

madprofessor

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Don't know about others, but for me when full testing and experimentation is over on SchizoBallz, the CVT cover will get bolted down on it with only the barest minimum of plastic cut away for the chain. Given that the cutout will be directly below the clutch, and the motor rack is about 3' above the ground, mine will be very close to waterproof. Water resistant I'll call it. To a depth of 3'.
 

Ol’National

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Don't know about others, but for me when full testing and experimentation is over on SchizoBallz, the CVT cover will get bolted down on it with only the barest minimum of plastic cut away for the chain. Given that the cutout will be directly below the clutch, and the motor rack is about 3' above the ground, mine will be very close to waterproof. Water resistant I'll call it. To a depth of 3'.
What brand cvt did you get?
 

Bansil

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Don't know about others, but for me when full testing and experimentation is over on SchizoBallz, the CVT cover will get bolted down on it with only the barest minimum of plastic cut away for the chain. Given that the cutout will be directly below the clutch, and the motor rack is about 3' above the ground, mine will be very close to waterproof. Water resistant I'll call it. To a depth of 3'.
3ft? Does it come with a snorkel and goggles for the driver :bannana:
 

madprofessor

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Nope, cuz I already gots all dat. I'm the guy that went to 190' (dive only planned for 165'), that's logged on my computer, decompressed and safety stopped on ascent, and surfaced with 100 psi on a 80 cu.ft. aluminum.
The 3 other guys went through their 80's, another 80 and a steel nitrox we'd tied on the line, and broke surface when one ran out of air.
BTW: I'm a 2-packs-a-day smoker. Just more at home when compressed, and never been narced. Did get my left hand's middle 2 knuckles bent once in Ft. Lauderdale. VERY painful drive back to Jacksonville.:backtotopic: What do people waterproof plug boots with, silicone?
 

Bansil

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😆....lol...


Old days yes, roll boot back, rub with alcohol and then rtv.

Hei distributors the same, seal up tight, biggest issues were carbs, so we did 12+ inches of lift and 44's :p

Oh 1 time I snorkeled air into cab up high where heater used to be....:oops:..when secondaries opened up you couldn't hear nothing but....duuughh...wooooo....:ROFLMAO:
 
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madprofessor

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Always been nervous about motors snorkeling water, last ex-wife proved why. She slowed down her Nissan 300ZX to go through rainwater up and over the curbs in St. Augustine, put it in 1st gear and wound it up to plow through it.
Those little race cars have a breather setup that's a completely sealed ducting from both sides of the engine bay, but down low to not breathe the hot air in the engine bay into the engine. Those ducts terminate in front of the tires about 4" above the ground.
Massive inhale at high rpm sucked in so much water that it hydro-locked hard enough to bend the crankshaft! Broken rods, broken pistons, etc.
$7,500 about 20 years ago for a new block with rotating assembly installed at dealership, same heads went back on. $1,200 insurance deductible.
 
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