Recommendations on 48v motor/ controller from eBay?

DonutHands

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Upgrading a Minimoto cart after my daughter cut her teeth on a Razor ground force.

There’s a bunch of these motor controller combos listed. Just not sure if one brand/supplier is better than another.

Also picking up a 48v lithium battery as well, maybe 12-14ah. Anything in particular to look out for?


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DonutHands

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Looks like a bunch of great build threads. Not really addressing my question. Unless there is a specific post I’m missing.


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Functional Artist

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Upgrading a Minimoto cart after my daughter cut her teeth on a Razor ground force.

There’s a bunch of these motor controller combos listed. Just not sure if one brand/supplier is better than another.

Also picking up a 48v lithium battery as well, maybe 12-14ah. Anything in particular to look out for?
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IMO a 48V 1,000W brushed motor kit (~$115.00) is the way to go :thumbsup:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1000W-48V-...=2835291824552c52707f13ee47c3a9db2a3639e7743c

As far as a Lithium Battery pack
...check the specs to be sure it can supply the amperage requirements of the motor, that you choose
...& I'd also try & find one that comes with the "proper" matching battery charger :cheers2:
 

DonutHands

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Hmm. I didn’t even consider picking up a brushed motor. Just assumed I’d go brushless as in general it would be more power at the same voltage.

I don’t mind the marginal increase (IMO) in price to go brushless.

Is there a reason to not go brushless, aside from maybe the brushed being better price/performance ratio?


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Functional Artist

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Hmm. I didn’t even consider picking up a brushed motor. Just assumed I’d go brushless as in general it would be more power at the same voltage.

I don’t mind the marginal increase (IMO) in price to go brushless.

Is there a reason to not go brushless, aside from maybe the brushed being better price/performance ratio?
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I have used both styles :thumbsup:
...but, I like the brushed motors 'cause their super powerful
...& so simple (just (2) "power wires" connecting the motor & speed controller) :cheers2:

Where as, brushless motors have (3) "power wires"
...& also, a (5) "sensor wire" connector

So, their more complicated
...have more parts (sensors-n-stuff) to "potentially" fail
...& there's more to "trouble shoot", if there is a problem :cheers2:

I have 48V 1,000W brushed motors on !Arriba!
...& Destenys Cotton Candy kart (daughters kart)
...& Excalibur (Electric Racing Kart)
...& the Lunar Rover (4x4 articulating "Moon Buggy")

I have a 48V 1,800W brushless motor on Damien (IMO not more powerful than a 48V 1,000W brushed motor)
...& a 60V 2,000W brushless motor on my Atom kart
 
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In general, brushless motor are more efficient, which tends to keep them cooler and means longer run time from your batteries. Brushed motors will have arcing that makes them also louder and smell a bit. If someone has experienced brushed 1kW and brushless 1.8kW and gotten similar-seeming results, it could be the controller, or that the demand didn't take advantage of the differences. If they have similar peak RPM, the 1.8kW one will have more available torque to provide, but you likely won't see a big difference unless the motor is under a bigger load. Think of a Regera vs a Tesla. In a short drag race, they're gonna have nearly identical acceleration. But in a mile-long race the Tesla peaks around 145 or so, but the Regera will keep going to 248mph.
 

itsid

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In general, brushless motor are more efficient, which tends to keep them cooler and means longer run time from your batteries. Brushed motors will have arcing that makes them also louder and smell a bit. If someone has experienced brushed 1kW and brushless 1.8kW and gotten similar-seeming results, it could be the controller, or that the demand didn't take advantage of the differences. If they have similar peak RPM, the 1.8kW one will have more available torque to provide, but you likely won't see a big difference unless the motor is under a bigger load.

I disagree..

it's perfectly normal to find good or bad efficiency in both types of common DC motors.
Brushed PMDC or BLDC
both can yield very good 93% efficiency or suck at 78%
it only depends on the quality the manufacturer was willing and able to put out.

And now the terrible part:
a BLDC always must be attached to a controller in order to turn over under it's own power.
(a PMDC only needs a battery really)
And those controllers can get nasty hot as well
(and that again is a huuuge part of the efficiency game we're playing)
True true.. since we also strongly advise to use controllers for Brushed DC as well, that's not too different, but since there's less switching in brushed dc controllers they run more efficiently (all else being equal)

A good brushed DC motor (in good state) will ALWAYS produce a higher stalling torque than a similarly quality and rating BLDC..
usually in the realms of 15-30% more torque from the brushed commutation.
(higher resolution commutation)

So yeah, a decent quality 48V 1kW PMDC (my1020 by Unite motors)
was able to produce a peak torque of 4.05Nm (3.6Nm average ... 3.2Nm nominal constant torque)

a similar quality 48V 1800W labelled BLDC (Yalu BM1109)
is able to produce a peak torque of 4.5Nm (3.9 average, 3.2Nm nominal constant torque)

So 10% higher peak torque from 80% higher power rating...
see what I mean?

'sid
 
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Are you saying brushless motors do not have permanent magnets?

Also, comparing these two motors on *just* torque is not sufficient,. That would be like comparing a pickup truck to a Lamborghini on just torque. That 80% greater power rating translates to a much higher RPM maintained at the same torque rating. I struggled to find much documentation, but it would appear those torque ratings are applied at 3000RPM (or less, couldn't find thorough documentation) on the 1000W and 4500RPM on the 1800W. So one could reasonably have an additional 1.5:1 ratio on the 1800W and maintain that same 3000RPM of the littler motor, while ending up with at least 60% higher torque than said smaller motor.
 

itsid

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Are you saying brushless motors do not have permanent magnets?
No I'm saying not all brushed motors have permanent magnets
(sep ex motors don't)

Also, comparing these two motors on *just* torque is not sufficient,. That would be like comparing a pickup truck to a Lamborghini on just torque. That 80% greater power rating translates to a much higher RPM maintained at the same torque rating. I struggled to find much documentation, but it would appear those torque ratings are applied at 3000RPM (or less, couldn't find thorough documentation) on the 1000W and 4500RPM on the 1800W. So one could reasonably have an additional 1.5:1 ratio on the 1800W and maintain that same 3000RPM of the littler motor, while ending up with at least 60% higher torque than said smaller motor.

Peak torque on ALL electric motors is STALLING Torque
(ie near 0 rpm)
rated torque is what the motor is able to provide roundabout 70% of it's rev-band
and average torque is whatever the averaged sum over all of those testpoints will yield.

And there's the point.. the average is even WORSE than peak,
since nominal torque for those is identical

True, this BLDC revs more than the PMDC
but far less than what you seem to expect...

unloaded PMDC: 3700, BLDC: 4200
nominal load PMDC: 3200, BLDC 3500

So not even 10% more rpms
(oh and again.. the two motors above.. there might be different wound motors with different characteristics of course.. but most motors are terribly if at all documented so I had to pick two I could find infos on that are halfway decently reliable (which sadly isn't too trivial in the first place :()

And the torque curve drops significantly on top of the rev band (for all motors as well as engines)
so no chance you can cheat that away..
the amount of time it takes for the voltage to build up in the coil to create a magnetic field is a constant (for a fixed voltage and load)
and so is the time it takes for the magnetic field to collapse.
the faster commutated the motor is, the closer the time for one "switching cycle" is to one "build up and collapse period".
Crossing that line prevents a full build up and/or full collapse drastically reducing efficiency and power output until the motor is unable to rev any further.
Any load applied increases the magnetic resistance and thus demands higher currents, slows the build up and collapse down;)

(that's why simple PMDC motors run quicker at higher voltages and slower under just minimal loads)

The benefit of faster commutation the PMDC motor has on low rpms, now becomes a drawback (hence the BLDC usually is able to rev higher more easily since any coilphase is granted a little more time to build up and collapse it's magnetic field)

Don't get me wrong, I like BLDCs
but they're fancy and easy to make, easy to maintain and all that..
they're NOT the beefier motor; by far not.

it's essentially the comparision between a
200cc four stroke with say 10 hp
and a 100cc two stroke also with ten hp
one has all the torque, the other all the rpms
both can be fun and both can be the wrong tool for a job ;)

Oh and just to be sure,
since you are certainly wondering HOW ON EARTH
with comparable rpms and well comparable torque
one can be a 1kW and the other a 1.8kW motor

simple: they're of decent to good quality from a reliable manufacturer.
and thus they're labelled for their reliable mechanical power
or what the mfg considers as such.

both output a peak power of roundabout 2.2kW (yes mechanical)
and both draw about a maximum of 3.1kW electrical if they're allowed to;
both will die in a matter of seconds then ;)

the PMDC heats up quicker (arcing and quicker magnetic flux changes),
hence it must not be powered for just as long under high loads as the BLDC,
which is more forgiving in those terms because it runs slightly cooler.

The BLDC has a nominal 1800W (10min rating) and 1200Watts endlessly
(allowed 30s peak is just OVER 2000 Watts [2050])
the PMDC has a nominal 1000W and no 10min rating at all
(allowed 30s peak is just UNDER 2000 Watts [1980])

'sid
 
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Can you link to the documentation you find on these motors?

Also yes, *some* brushed motors are more efficient than *some* brushless motors, but on average brushless are more efficient. Everything I've found online says that in general terms. If you disagree, I'd be curious to know on what grounds, and what evidence you have to support that claim.
 

Functional Artist

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Real World Results

I've tested a 48V 1,000W brushed motor
...& also, a 48V 1,800W brushless motor, on a test kart (e-Lemon-aid) :thumbsup:
https://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=37442

TBH, I didn't notice much of a difference in the "performance" between the two :huh:
...here are the results I got :cheers2:

48V 1,000W My-1020 (brushed motor)
avg. amp draw: 8A
max amp draw: 25A
top speed : ~15MPH

48V 1,800W Boma (brushless)
avg. amp draw: 9A
max amp draw: 29A
top speed: ~16 mph

Here's the 48V 1,000W test
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AxKkIaE2feY

...& the 48V 1,800W test
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ffzQf7ppw5g&t=1s
 

itsid

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Can you link to the documentation you find on these motors?

unfortunately not..
I downloaded some datasheets when I looked for infos

but here's the unite constant test sheet for now,
the rest (all the sketchy peak values) were copied over plain text
from the now deceased website (unitemotor.com)
remnants of it are still on web.archive.org
but the 1kW isn't even listed in that archive...
only a single trace left that leads to no noteworthy info but a pic :(

The yalu datasheet is on my other computer,
I just took notes with me (I was quicker dictating some few numbers into my phone than actually copying it.. sorry for being lazy ;))
Source... I can't remember... some south african supplier IIRC...
I think mantech, but I can only find a dumbed down 1.2kW pdf there nowadays
So you will have to wait for me to fetch it from my bigboy computer I'm afraid :(

'sid
 

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I've tested a 48V 1,000W brushed motor
...& also, a 48V 1,800W brushless motor, on a test kart (e-Lemon-aid) :thumbsup:
https://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=37442

TBH, I didn't notice much of a difference in the "performance" between the two :huh:
...here are the results I got :cheers2:

48V 1,000W My-1020 (brushed motor)
avg. amp draw: 8A
max amp draw: 25A
top speed : ~15MPH

48V 1,800W Boma (brushless)
avg. amp draw: 9A
max amp draw: 29A
top speed: ~16 mph

Here's the 48V 1,000W test
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AxKkIaE2feY

...& the 48V 1,800W test
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ffzQf7ppw5g&t=1s

It's quite interesting. Based on those numbers, the peak wattage is a bit different, but the running power is nearly the same. I wonder why. Could be peak wattage rating on the 1,800W and nominal wattage on the 1,000W, could be the controller, and there's probably a few other possibilities too.
 

itsid

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unfortunately I must admit I haven't checked my sources properly I think

this is the diagram I had stored:
bm1109-1800.jpg

but I'm afraid that awfully looks like it's under use of the cheap controller that usually is supplied with it.
if it's at all an 1800W motor tested there..

and here's why I started to have my doubts....
when I -again- realized that forgot to copy that **** file over yesterday,
I checked if i can find traces of it online...
I couldn't!

what I did find however is the diagram of a 1200W and a 1500W
diagram of the same model from a reputeable german retailer.
(hence the watermark)

And those do make indeed more sense to me...
I started to calculate a few bits n bobs
just mechanical power from rpm and torque and while those numbers do work out,
the diagram effectively shows no signs of peak values that are anywhere close to the ones on the other two (lower nominal power) diagrams... (attached below)

So yeah.. I'm afraid
I have to say... I might have been fooled and was wrong.
Either that diagram was in fact mislabelled
and in fact from an even lower powered motor,
or it was dyno'd with a terrible controller..
I cannot tell..

.. *shrugs*
the other diagrams show way more power,
but even worse efficiency.. I'm actually baffled by that,
since usually BLDC are highly efficient when controlled right,
and the only drawback is the added efficiency cost from the controller.

I'm close to actually call those motors as fishy as it's ebay/amazon-relatives... (if only they had a reliable website :()
ah well...

I'd love o get one and dyno it myself..
just to know what idiot messed up where afterwards ;)


'sid
 

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Functional Artist

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unfortunately I must admit I haven't checked my sources properly I think

this is the diagram I had stored:
View attachment 121707

but I'm afraid that awfully looks like it's under use of the cheap controller that usually is supplied with it.
if it's at all an 1800W motor tested there..

and here's why I started to have my doubts....
when I -again- realized that forgot to copy that **** file over yesterday,
I checked if i can find traces of it online...
I couldn't!

what I did find however is the diagram of a 1200W and a 1500W
diagram of the same model from a reputeable german retailer.
(hence the watermark)

And those do make indeed more sense to me...
I started to calculate a few bits n bobs
just mechanical power from rpm and torque and while those numbers do work out,
the diagram effectively shows no signs of peak values that are anywhere close to the ones on the other two (lower nominal power) diagrams... (attached below)

So yeah.. I'm afraid
I have to say... I might have been fooled and was wrong.
Either that diagram was in fact mislabelled
and in fact from an even lower powered motor,
or it was dyno'd with a terrible controller..
I cannot tell..

.. *shrugs*
the other diagrams show way more power,
but even worse efficiency.. I'm actually baffled by that,
since usually BLDC are highly efficient when controlled right,
and the only drawback is the added efficiency cost from the controller.

I'm close to actually call those motors as fishy as it's ebay/amazon-relatives... (if only they had a reliable website :()
ah well...

I'd love o get one and dyno it myself..
just to know what idiot messed up where afterwards ;)


'sid

Um...which one you want? :popcorn:

My buddy Miguel from Alfa Wheels just got in another order of brushless motors & controllers :wai:
...Ima gonna see what it would cost ta get you one :thumbsup:

Here is some info that he sent me on 'em :2guns:

YALU 3000W Watt 60V Volt BLDC electric motor w Base BOMA Style BM1109 GoKart (~$140.00)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/153856149542

...& also, these controllers (~$95.00)
YALU 3000W watt 48 60 72V f BOMA GoKart Brushless BLDC Electric Motor Controller (for BOMA, YALU or similar motors)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/164057347596

There's more info in the graphs
...but, it ain't "showin' up" for some reason :huh:
 

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itsid

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naked graphs w/o any markings.. wow.. I mean.. wow
I can tell from the graph that they're using likely the same software that UNITE was using,
but other than that ... uhm ;)


'sid
 

alfa-wheels

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performance curves 3000w 72V Boma Motor

See if it works
 

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