Predator Kill Switch

Status
Not open for further replies.

chancer

ɔ ɥ ɐ u ɔ ǝ ɹ
Messages
9,358
Reaction score
8
Location
COMFORT, TEXAS
This is a frequently asked question.

How do I hook up a Predator kill switch?

In this Pic I show the Stock unmolested Wiring:
Notice the Yellow Wire going Down into the Block.
IMG_2245.JPG

In this Pic I have unplugged the Yellow wire going Down into the Block.
This is the low oil sensor. You want it Disconnected or your engine will shut off during cornering.
(note) If you are removing you internal Governor you can also remove this low oil sensor in the block.
IMG_2246.JPG

Now you just tape off the Yellow wire from the Block. The other end of the now disconnected Yellow wire is going in to the "Gold Box" Extend this wire to your Driver compartment ( I put mine right on the steering wheel) and add a switch. In this Pic I show a simple (non lighted) door bell momentary switch. Put your extended wire in one side and run a wire to ground from the other side of the switch.
IMG_2247.JPG

On my Daughters Kart I have this button on the steering wheel within thumbs reach.
IMG_5605.JPG

Here is the deal. The "Gold Box" is Magic.
Most engines require that you Ground them to kill the engine. So you have to hold down a button wired to ground continuously until the engine stops. Or wire a ground to a Switch.
Since the "Gold Box" is meant to sense a signal from the low oil switch it immediately Kills the engine with a momentary switch. This allows the use of a momentary button on the Predator. Great for safely killing the engine in an instant with the touch of a button.

You Do not have to use a "Doorbell button" In fact lately the non lighted ones are harder to find at the hardware store. Any Momentary switch (horn button) will work. Here is a nice all metal one I picked up at O'Reilly auto parts for 10 bucks. And a link to a $3.50 nonlighted button http://www.1800doorbell.com/gbase-dh1202.htm
IMG_5607.JPG

Here is a simplified Complete version of the Wiring. On this Krate Racer I was able to use the factory wiring. You can see the "gold box" yellow going to one side of the button, and the other side of the button going to an engine bolt for ground.
IMG_0083.jpg
 

mckutzy

Well-known member
Messages
8,353
Reaction score
31
Location
bc, canada
Thats how I roll...... works great and no cutting/spicing...... and no toggle switch required either.
 

Whitetrashrocker

Inmate #952016
Messages
2,346
Reaction score
120
Location
Southern New Mexico
I also did the same by running that wire to a steering wheel switch.
I used a toggle that I had. No need for the magic box. Just remember to turn it on before you wear yourself out pulling the rope.:idea2:
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20161011_111738384_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20161011_111738384_HDR.jpg
    249.2 KB · Views: 19

mckutzy

Well-known member
Messages
8,353
Reaction score
31
Location
bc, canada
But the box is just that... leave all the electrics unmolested, just unplug and replace that wire as the sensor button...No need to remember to turn on/off the switch to start...
Press to stop/pull to start... simple... and no studdering to stop... just dead..
 

chancer

ɔ ɥ ɐ u ɔ ǝ ɹ
Messages
9,358
Reaction score
8
Location
COMFORT, TEXAS
Here are a couple more pics. I like the buttons. They make a real clean install. and don't stick up like a switch. Also you can leave the red engine switch in the on position forever.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5606.JPG
    IMG_5606.JPG
    155.2 KB · Views: 17
  • IMG_0084.jpg
    IMG_0084.jpg
    332.4 KB · Views: 22

chancer

ɔ ɥ ɐ u ɔ ǝ ɹ
Messages
9,358
Reaction score
8
Location
COMFORT, TEXAS
Unfortunately the 79cc Predator and Briggs Engines do not come with a "Gold Box". I had to use a switch. It can be annoying when the switch is left on or off, and in conjunction with the Motor on off switch. Yes you find yourself pulling the starter 10 times cause the switches are in the wrong position.
 

pRoFiT

Can't buy it?, build it!
Messages
1,135
Reaction score
32
Location
California
Nice post. Good pictures. I still need to do that on my kart. Have only wires run no button. This week for sure.
 

Functional Artist

Well-known member
Messages
4,410
Reaction score
1,692
Location
Toledo, Ohio
This is a frequently asked question.

How do I hook up a Predator kill switch?

In this Pic I show the Stock unmolested Wiring:
Notice the Yellow Wire going Down into the Block.
View attachment 80034

In this Pic I have unplugged the Yellow wire going Down into the Block.
This is the low oil sensor. You want it Disconnected or your engine will shut off during cornering.
(note) If you are removing you internal Governor you can also remove this low oil sensor in the block.
View attachment 80035

Now you just tape off the Yellow wire from the Block. The other end of the now disconnected Yellow wire is going in to the "Gold Box" Extend this wire to your Driver compartment ( I put mine right on the steering wheel) and add a switch. In this Pic I show a simple (non lighted) door bell momentary switch. Put your extended wire in one side and run a wire to ground from the other side of the switch.
View attachment 80036

On my Daughters Kart I have this button on the steering wheel within thumbs reach.
View attachment 80037

Here is the deal. The "Gold Box" is Magic.
Most engines require that you Ground them to kill the engine. So you have to hold down a button wired to ground continuously until the engine stops. Or wire a ground to a Switch. Since the "Gold Box" is meant to sense a signal from the low oil switch it immediately Kills the engine with a momentary switch. This allows the use of a momentary button on the Predator. Great for safely killing the engine in an instant with the touch of a button.

You Do not have to use a "Doorbell button" In fact lately the non lighted ones are harder to find at the hardware store. Any Momentary switch (horn button) will work. Here is a nice all metal one I picked up at O'Reilly auto parts for 10 bucks.
View attachment 80038

Here is a simplified Complete version of the Wiring. On this Krate Racer I was able to use the factory wiring. You can see the "gold box" yellow going to one side of the button, and the other side of the button going to an engine bolt for ground.
View attachment 80042

Great Information!

...that almost every noobie & some oldbies can use

That's what i'm talkin' about! :thumbsup:
 

pRoFiT

Can't buy it?, build it!
Messages
1,135
Reaction score
32
Location
California
Okay so i tried this doorbell method. The only single button doorbell home depot had on hand had a light in it!!! As chancer says in the beginning use a non lighted switch. Here is the reason. The light bulb in the lighted doorbells have about 130ohm worth of resistance going across the light. That is enough resistance to kill the engine all the time if connected.

To check if this is your problem after following this guide above, use a DMM and set to ohm's meassure the switch as is. it should read open and not 130 like mine did.

To fix it you can carefully remove the light from inside the doorbell button. (maybe you could even go crazy and put 110vac through button to blow out the light bulb??? dont try that at home)

Anyways, the button top comes of easily and you can get to the bulb and remove it. then replace button and you are good to go.

Using the DMM measure open and closed positions to make sure you didn't damage the button.
 

Attachments

  • IMAG1384.jpg
    IMAG1384.jpg
    270.5 KB · Views: 8
  • IMAG1385.jpg
    IMAG1385.jpg
    237.7 KB · Views: 5
  • IMAG1387.jpg
    IMAG1387.jpg
    207 KB · Views: 5
  • IMAG1388.jpg
    IMAG1388.jpg
    234.9 KB · Views: 4
  • IMAG1389.jpg
    IMAG1389.jpg
    270.6 KB · Views: 4

Rail rider

Inmate # 3192016
Messages
792
Reaction score
0
Location
Planet earth ( the flat one)
Okay so i tried this doorbell method. The only single button doorbell home depot had on hand had a light in it!!! As chancer says in the beginning use a non lighted switch. Here is the reason. The light bulb in the lighted doorbells have about 130ohm worth of resistance going across the light. That is enough resistance to kill the engine all the time if connected.

To check if this is your problem after following this guide above, use a DMM and set to ohm's meassure the switch as is. it should read open and not 130 like mine did.

To fix it you can carefully remove the light from inside the doorbell button. (maybe you could even go crazy and put 110vac through button to blow out the light bulb??? dont try that at home)

Anyways, the button top comes of easily and you can get to the bulb and remove it. then replace button and you are good to go.

Using the DMM measure open and closed positions to make sure you didn't damage the button.

Now that it is apart, and you bypast the bulb hit it with some red plastic paint before reassembly.
 

supermanotorious

Winchmaster 5000
Messages
2,088
Reaction score
1
Location
New River, AZ
I myself do not like momentary switches for kill, I want to flip a switch and be done, not have to hold it until RPMs are too low to sustain spark
 

chancer

ɔ ɥ ɐ u ɔ ǝ ɹ
Messages
9,358
Reaction score
8
Location
COMFORT, TEXAS
I myself do not like momentary switches for kill, I want to flip a switch and be done, not have to hold it until RPMs are too low to sustain spark

No No No... Read carefully. That is the point of using the Gold Box. It is an "instant kill". No holding down a Ground wire button waiting on the engine to stop Dieseling.:thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top