Predator 212 Hemi Won't Idle After Valve Lash Adjustment

[KMEFA]

I would take out the main jet, emulsion tube,, & pilot jet,, & check over ''all'' the holes ''real good ''on them first.

If all looks good,, & the float bowl is ''full'' when removing it,,, then I am back to thinking that you ''unfortunately'' still have valve train problems.

Added,,
Am guessing you have an idle mixture screw on that carb.
Turn it all the way in & count the turns while turning it.
''Do not'' put any pressure on that screw when it bottoms out .
It should screw in around 3/4 - 1 1/2 turns.

 

[madprofessor]

Don't know what larger jet you're running in that thing, but listen to this about my 212 hemi...................
My hi-performance guy sets me up with a #6 (7.2 degrees) advance key for my 28 degree PVL flywheel (35.2 degrees total timing advance) for my hi-perf rare earth magnets coil, and a .036 main jet. (Also a .022 low jet.)
He absolutely insists that only the stock emulsion tube be used, even for my rather radical mixture/timing setup.
His building experience has proven that the aftermarket "performance" E-tubes cause rough running issues, make any large bore jetting idle rough or not at all.
I trust Jerry Dover completely as the best small engine hot rod expert/builder over anybody else. You can send him a message on ebay under his company name of diyperformance. Type " Predator top plate " in the search bar, click on the first one that pops up. Message him with any engine question, he always responds in an email, and with advice you can absolutely trust.

 

[SquidBonez]

Don't know what larger jet you're running in that thing, but listen to this about my 212 hemi...................
My hi-performance guy sets me up with a #6 (7.2 degrees) advance key for my 28 degree PVL flywheel (35.2 degrees total timing advance) for my hi-perf rare earth magnets coil, and a .036 main jet. (Also a .022 low jet.)
He absolutely insists that only the stock emulsion tube be used, even for my rather radical mixture/timing setup.
His building experience has proven that the aftermarket "performance" E-tubes cause rough running issues, make any large bore jetting idle rough or not at all.
I trust Jerry Dover completely as the best small engine hot rod expert/builder over anybody else. You can send him a message on ebay under his company name of diyperformance. Type " Predator top plate " in the search bar, click on the first one that pops up. Message him with any engine question, he always responds in an email, and with advice you can absolutely trust.

Should I try putting the stock jet back in then just to try it? Isn't the stock jet 0.36? Mine is 0.38.

 

[SquidBonez]

Swapped in the new emulsion tube today. Still using 0.38 jet. It's starting up now even in 25 degree weather, and no starting fluid! Don't think the coil is bad after all, but I still have a new one coming in. I'll just keep it on standby. Once this snow melts we'll see how she performs once in motion.

 

[madprofessor]

OEM jets can vary, but are mostly .029 main jet and .016 low jet.
Running .036 main in mine with stock emulsion tube.
Don't know what happened when you swapped out that E-tube, but it sounds fishy. Like there was something wrong, out of place, who knows when the tube was pulled and jet replaced before. Something that went back together right this time.
Since you can swap tubes in less than 5 minutes, really think you should swap the OEM tube back in and test again while it's still cold outside. Then you can swap again and test again with your new tube.
If it cranks and idles fine with the OEM tube this time now, I'd stay with it.
And just so you know, the high performance coils do not make a stronger spark. They just have the resistors disabled so they don't retard the spark at high rpm's. And maybe have a 8mm silicone plug wire like mine. Rare earth magnets in the billet flywheel make the better spark.

 

[KMEFA]

Doesn't add up does it ??

Think something was plugged & restricted.

+1 on putting the stock emulsion tube back in ,''if it's ok'' ??

 

[SquidBonez]

OEM jets can vary, but are mostly .029 main jet and .016 low jet.
Running .036 main in mine with stock emulsion tube.
Don't know what happened when you swapped out that E-tube, but it sounds fishy. Like there was something wrong, out of place, who knows when the tube was pulled and jet replaced before. Something that went back together right this time.
Since you can swap tubes in less than 5 minutes, really think you should swap the OEM tube back in and test again while it's still cold outside. Then you can swap again and test again with your new tube.
If it cranks and idles fine with the OEM tube this time now, I'd stay with it.
And just so you know, the high performance coils do not make a stronger spark. They just have the resistors disabled so they don't retard the spark at high rpm's. And maybe have a 8mm silicone plug wire like mine. Rare earth magnets in the billet flywheel make the better spark.

I'm keeping the stock tube on standby again so I can swap it in the future just to see if it would work. The coil I bought is an OEM replacement, not high performance or anything like that. Last time I opened the coil gap I went from 0.03 to 0.06. Really didn't make any difference but since it's running now I'm going to leave it as is. The jet wasn't clogged or anything when I swapped the tube but I still sprayed it down with carb cleaner (made sure it shot through the hole). No idea how a pushrod falling out led to all this nonsense, but hey, it's running (for now). If anything changes I will post again.

Thanks again to everyone who helped me along the way!

 

[Budget GoKart]

when taking carbs apart use junk wire strands ro poke through holes i had a atv carb so plugged i spent an hour with every type of wire i had and carb cleaner and eventually got a chunk of goo out and got it started