Predator 212 Fuel Pump Question and pull start kickback

Crazznewt

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I hope I'm posting in the right place. I just bought a fuel pump and a clear valve cover with a pulse fitting already installed. I was hoping to run the pump off of that fitting.

I watched a couple videos on the subject then realized I might have to leave that pulse fitting open for the crankcase to breathe. These videos didn't address my question which is: will I need a separate pulse fitting to operate my pump? Thanks!
 

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Crazznewt

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Thanks man. I thought I had ordered everything I needed. Now I have to drill that plastic without breaking it. The only reason I ordered plastic was it was the only valve cover in stock with that fitting. 😖
 

Crazznewt

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I used a step bit to drill the hole for the pulse fitting. I mounted it vertical to hopefully minimize oil getting into the pump. I'm not sure I like this setup and might do something different. 20200908_002843.jpg20200908_005033.jpg
 

pearl111

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Could you bend that metal horizontal- flat ? Another option would be a throttle plate. I have 2 of those style fuel pumps on throttle plates with pre drilled holes, they work really well, for me.

I've never seen a vertical fuel pump set up that way. So I can't say how well it will work. I hope it works good if you keep it that way. Who knows maybe you come up with a new way to mount this style fuel pump.

let us know how things work out.
 

Crazznewt

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This is my first fuel pump install. I have read that oil occasionally gets into the pump when tapped into the valve cover and thought this design would allow the oil to drain back into the valve cover. My riding lawn mower has a vertically mounted pump so hopefully this will work the same.

I will let you know.
 

pearl111

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That sounds great, but if things don't turn out so well (again) ARC Racing has videos on throttle plates, in that video they have real good info on how that style fuel pump works. Might be worth looking into. The vid. might be long but you could search around on it until you find the section on fuel pumps, and fuel pump mounting.

Anyway hope things work out the way you want to.
 

Crazznewt

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The fuel pump works perfectly! It tucks in nicely below the top of the seat and keeps more fuel in the fuel filter than the gravity feed did. Sometimes I will go against the norm if I think I can avoid problems later. I want the boys to hot rod hard and not have to bother me for repairs. It also saved me 30 - 40 dollars the cost for a small metal plate.

The test will happen after school today when my son takes it out back to our dirt track. The engine would sputter after 3 or 4 laps despite having no issues on pavement. If this doesnt work, the next step is a new Mikuni.

Thanks Pearl for the info, I'll check out the video later!
 

Crazznewt

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Looks like I need a Mikuni. The kart stalls after drifting on dirt for a few laps. The low oil sensor is disconnected and my son can drive it on pavement even doing donuts on pavement and it never stalls. Am I on the right track?
 

pearl111

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I can't answer why it sputters. I don't know any mods. that were done to the motor. I see you have a TC. I don't have any TorConv. on any of my karts or mini bikes. It might have something to do with the TC while the kart is sliding through the turns.

Honestly I don't know the cause for the sputtering. I hope someone with more experience can come on and help with this issue.
 

Crazznewt

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The only thing I can think of is the bowl may be bouncing during the hard power slides. This thing is awesome on pavement though! It will lay rubber for about 5 feet and tops at 38 mph. This is my second torque converter and I will never have another yard kart without one.
The only mods are a stage 1 performance kit, governor delete, hotter plug and the fuel pump. My son will eventually build this to the max. I just have to keep him from doing donuts on the pavement because we need a billet flywheel and Mikuni next not replacement tires.
 

pearl111

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I forgot about the float in carb. bowl. Might be something to look at.

Those TC. sound like fun, I might have to see about putting one on.
 

Crazznewt

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Concerning the torque converter: I've had a $300 one and another Chinese rip off of American technology we have now which cost $100. I dont see a difference in performance.
 
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pearl111

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From what I understand they are about the same. Only one difference the belt, but if you put a really good (high end) belt on the Chinese TC and careful how you run them, they should be just as much fun as a good one (TC).
 
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Crazznewt

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Well , my son installed the Mikuni kit on the kart and we are 100% thrilled with the boost in performance! We can hot rod on our 1/8 mile paved drive with no problems. However, on our dirt track the engine still sputters. My next guess is a gas tank replacement. Any ideas gentlemen?

THE Go power sports website said they were shipping me a Chinese Mikuni because the Japanese one was out of stock. When I first examined the carb upon receipt this morning, I noticed how well built it was. I saw the Mikuni stamp in the metal then I was thrilled when I saw the Japan stamp. Is this proof this is the authentic Mikuni?

I am a little nervous because this engine is turning some high revolutions right now. The next step is the billet flywheel and rod. We might do a cam upgrade at the same time. Am I missing something?

Harbor Freight has been out of Predator 6.5's all summer and for the first time in months I received my coupons with a coupon for a Predator 6.5 for $99. I'm about to check on availability because we are spending a lot of dough not to have a backup.

One more thing. Go Power Sports has a discontinued brake cable on sale for seven bucks. I think it was $29 originally. It is very high quality and allowed us to replace the brake linkage on this kart. Peace out!
 

Crazznewt

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So, this kart had no issues while riding on pavement but now when pull starting, it wants to kick back and tear your arm off.

Predator Hemi 212 w/stage 1 upgrade, Mikuni 22, fuel pump operating off the clear valve cover which has a separate fitting for the breather.

There was no issue until the second day after the Mikuni install. Now we use a drill to start it. I have had the flywheel off and everything is good there. The Mikuni made this thing scary fast meaning it's time for the billet upgrades.

Where else should I look for the cause of the kickback? Could the valves need adjustment even though I've not touched them since the stage 1 upgrade 6 weeks ago? Also, do the pink vent lines on the Mikuni need filters?
 
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JTSpeedDemon

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Yeah check the valve lash. You sure the ignition key didn't partially shear? Other than that, all I can think of is a faulty compression release on the cam.
 

Crazznewt

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Thank you JT for your input. This thing has been a fun hobby for my son and I. I needed a hobby because I've not worked for over a year due to 4 surgeries for carpal and cubital tunnel syndrome. We went from being basketball fanatics to go kart gearheads. We have the garage arranged and parts kits organized for this toy.

It's a money pit but obviously not as bad as a hot rod car. Engine prices are reasonable thanks to the Chinese rip offs. Heck, we paid much more for our kart engines back in 1978!

Ahh, the memories of the unmounted 9000+ rpm McCulloch 101 a buddy and I started on my concrete back porch. It got away from us and bounced all over the porch and we couldnt catch it untill it ran out of gas. I feel like a kid again.
 

Crazznewt

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The reason the engine stalled when riding in the field was because of the gas tank the whole time. We changed the tank and have had no issues since. However, the pull start kick back is still an issue. The flywheel key is intact and we adjusted the valve lash so I'm assuming it's the compression release like JT suggested. We are starting the engine with a big drill for the time being.
 
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