currycarts
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It's a Howhit in a Crossfire 150R. The new harness came with new electrical components, which I changed out, except for the stator. It's turning over, but not firing. Help would be appreciated.
New wiring harness and plug, but no spark.
- Thread starter currycarts
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remember the brake pedal...
on many recent gy6 models the brake pedal must be pressed in order to start the engine,
that's also the case for yours IIRC
'sid
on many recent gy6 models the brake pedal must be pressed in order to start the engine,
that's also the case for yours IIRC
'sid
currycarts
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We did that part, thanks. Could a bad stator be the issue? It's the only thing I didn't change out.
tough to tell..
is the engine turning over very sluggishly or 'normal'
if the starter has the power to turn the engine over quickly enough on a fresh battery,
the next thing could indeed be the stator;
it is more likely however that the CDI is preventing a successfull start
You said you swapped the CDI if I'm understanding your "everything" correctly..
swap it back to the old one and see if that helps
if not, get a multimeter handy and measure the Voltage across the ignition coil source terminals
during cranking the engine.. it should read as 12V on a mediocre lagging electronic multimeter.
(maybe a hair less)
the short discharge shouldn't actually affect the reading too much
if you read ZERO volts (or some low value [i.e.<9V])
trace back the connections thoroughly..
start with the coil and measure it's black against the black on the Rectifier.
(in continuity test and/or resistance)
if that's okay measure the coils blue against the blue wire on the CDI
(again continuity testing and/or resistance)
Once that's both within reason (well below 2 ohms and with good continuity)
measure the Output voltage of your rectifier
it should be in the 13.5V range ( 12.9 - 14.5 actually)
(again while cranking the engine.. and yes I'm afraid that'll be hard on the starter
)
And if that's not the case it's time to measure the stator output to verify it's the rectifier or the stator
I don't know the correct specs for your stator tbh but I'd bet it's a ~50V version
So set the multimeter to measure AC mode voltage..
pick any two of the three leads and again crank the engine over a bit
it should spike roundabout 50V (maybe a bit less since it's not at full idle speed)
try every combination of the three wires
A-B, A-C and B-C direction is not important of course.
if one stands out to be lower than the others it might be resolveable (a burned diode)
if two are lower it might not be (a shortened out or broken coil [in case of zero volts])
if all three are equal and just very low
I might be wrong about the assumed voltage and the stator might be working properly
hence it'll more likely be the regulator.
'sid
is the engine turning over very sluggishly or 'normal'
if the starter has the power to turn the engine over quickly enough on a fresh battery,
the next thing could indeed be the stator;
it is more likely however that the CDI is preventing a successfull start
You said you swapped the CDI if I'm understanding your "everything" correctly..
swap it back to the old one and see if that helps
if not, get a multimeter handy and measure the Voltage across the ignition coil source terminals
during cranking the engine.. it should read as 12V on a mediocre lagging electronic multimeter.
(maybe a hair less)
the short discharge shouldn't actually affect the reading too much
if you read ZERO volts (or some low value [i.e.<9V])
trace back the connections thoroughly..
start with the coil and measure it's black against the black on the Rectifier.
(in continuity test and/or resistance)
if that's okay measure the coils blue against the blue wire on the CDI
(again continuity testing and/or resistance)
Once that's both within reason (well below 2 ohms and with good continuity)
measure the Output voltage of your rectifier
it should be in the 13.5V range ( 12.9 - 14.5 actually)
(again while cranking the engine.. and yes I'm afraid that'll be hard on the starter
)And if that's not the case it's time to measure the stator output to verify it's the rectifier or the stator
I don't know the correct specs for your stator tbh but I'd bet it's a ~50V version
So set the multimeter to measure AC mode voltage..
pick any two of the three leads and again crank the engine over a bit
it should spike roundabout 50V (maybe a bit less since it's not at full idle speed)
try every combination of the three wires
A-B, A-C and B-C direction is not important of course.
if one stands out to be lower than the others it might be resolveable (a burned diode)
if two are lower it might not be (a shortened out or broken coil [in case of zero volts])
if all three are equal and just very low
I might be wrong about the assumed voltage and the stator might be working properly
hence it'll more likely be the regulator.
'sid
currycarts
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Lots of great info. I'll work my way through it. Thanks