New 212 fouling plugs

Pbnclb

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I have a predator 212 with a GoPowerSports stage 1 kit installed w/ 18lb valve springs. I swapped the plug the other day and it came out solid black. I was getting a misfire because of this, put a new plug in and it ran fine for an hour then I started getting a misfire again and a little trouble starting the motor but not bad.

I put an NGK BR6ES plug in there as replacement and rode for 1 hour maybe and it came out black. I have the valves set at 0 lash and I’m running a 10t clutch w/ 62 tooth sprocket on 13 inch wheels all around.

any of you guys have any idea what I could check to see whats causing this condition? I’ve searched many forums but cannot find much
 

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madprofessor

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My performance guy up in N.C. told me to only run stock plugs with the rich .036 main jet and .022 low jet that came from him as part of the hotrodding up of my Predator 212's (15+ hp. currently). Said the so-called "racing" plugs are great on a track, but a few minutes of putt-putting around will foul them right out.
They will always come out black and sooty when running rich like mine, assuming they're not high-revving the entire time they're running. The test is to wipe the plug with a clean dry rag, including between the insulated center rod and the electrode. Soot will wipe right off, means everything's normal for those jets. Should wipe off the soot routinely though, soot is carbon, and carbon can trickle off spark intensity to ground. If it's oily, or if it's crusty with stuff that doesn't freely wipe off, it's pretty much fouled out.
Do you know your main jet size (for certain)? What new parts came with your stage 1 kit besides the header pipe w/muffler and the hi-flow air filter w/adapter and filter sock?
 
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Pbnclb

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The main size is 0.38 , and the only other part that came with my kit was 18lb valve springs. I installed those and set valves to 0 lash.

I’m not sure if the soot wipes off freely, I will check here soon and report back. It is definitely causing the engine to run a little funny once it gets dirty. The first couple minutes it runs pretty good then I start to hear a slight miss or at least I think it’s a miss after the engine runs for a few minutes.

I did find a random post where someone said they were having a fouling issue from having too much oil in the motor. I think when I filled it last time I put a few extra ounces of oil to finish off a bottle and maybe that could be it?
 

madprofessor

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Absolutely not. There's no oil pump to force extra oil anywhere, it's splash lubrication only. Excessive oil level can cause drag at high rpm, but even then can't force oil into the cylinder to oil-foul a plug. That's what the bottom 3-piece oil wiper ring assembly is supposed to seal against, and there's 2 more rings above that.
If there was a way to force extra oil up into the head, a leaking intake valve stem could let it get into the cylinder, calls for new valves and guides.
NOTE: The 3-piece wiper ring assembly needs to have its 3 ring gaps clocked 120 degrees from each other, and the top ring of the 3 should share 120 degree clocking with the 2 rings above it. All of that seals the cylinder from oil intrusion.
NOTE: Zero lash is not where you should be setting your valves. More like .005 cold on the intake, and .007 cold on the exhaust. Others say .003 anytime. I set my own for .003 cold on both valves because I use 22 lb. springs.
 

Pbnclb

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I set the valve lash today. I appreciate ur replies.
I’m hoping I can find a way to make this engine run a little cleaner so I don’t have to keep cleaning this plug. Pulled it out today to check spark and the spot wiped off but it’s still stained black kind of.
 
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madprofessor

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If you want it to run cleaner you'll have to drop the jet size some. My motor's hotrodded up to about 15+ hp., and that's with just a .036 jet in it.
Mine gets a little sooty too, but doesn't foul out. Order a .034 jet, it'll make a difference.
 

Denny

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Lash should be set at .003-.004. Running zero lash will not allow the valves to close completely once everything heats up. Zero lash is for hydraulic liters. Which these engines do not have.
 

Pbnclb

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Lash should be set at .003-.004. Running zero lash will not allow the valves to close completely once everything heats up. Zero lash is for hydraulic liters. Which these engines do not have
I set it in reference to this GoPowerSports video originally (This video) they stated to set it at 0 lash for some reason.

Earlier today I set it to .003 on both sides.

Thank you for ur help!
 

bob58o

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Lash should be set at .003-.004. Running zero lash will not allow the valves to close completely once everything heats up. Zero lash is for hydraulic liters. Which these engines do not have.
This is not correct. On these engines if you properly set lash to zero when cold, the lash will grow as the engine heats up.
 

Pbnclb

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Issue ended up being the black plate between the carburetor and the motor. I had let the motor tip over a while back and the bottom of the black plate snapped off... didn’t look like it would cause this, swapped out plates today and plugs are coming out looking white/ a toasted marshmallow.

just Incase someone ever comes across this post in the future. This was the solution.
 
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