Need help identifying kart

[GoldKart]

I just picked up a used off road go kart/buggy and I cant find any identifying tags, marks or numbers anywhere. I have scoured the internet for two days and I am unable to identify this kart/buggy. I am attaching some pics and it does have some unique features. It has independent suspension on all for wheels. Is has a steering rack, not the typical basic steering linkage. It has a hydraulic disc brake on the rear and it's most interesting feature is that the steering wheel is attached to a bar that tilts up and down. I guess to adjust it, or maybe just make it easier to get in and out? It unfortunately appears to be missing the piece that locks that bar in place on the drivers side, but you can see the attachment points for it on both the frame and the "steering bar". It is pretty wide for a two seater (about 5 ft from wheel to wheel) and i believe it's about 7 ft long, bumper to bumper. It has these... i dont know what to cal them... maybe "step bars" on both sides. It also has a front and rear pushbar, or, almost a bumper, sort of. There is a rack on the back as well above the motor. The frame tubing is pretty large at 1.5" diameter tubing. It has 19x7-8 tires on all four wheels. The engine is a predator, but has no identifying decals or indication of the size or HP. I am going to try to find a serial number on the engine tomorrow. I could not find any tag or serial number on the frame. I keep leaning towards Manco or Murray because of the headrests and the rear end configuration, which reminds me of the Manco Bad Cat, but its definitely not a Bad Cat. I believe Manco karts and buggys typically have fixed steering wheels. I was really hoping that that tilting steering bar would help make this easy to identify, but i am stumped. I guess from it's size, this would qualify as more of an off road "buggy", as opposed to a kart, but that's really here nor there. I looked through all the manco models that I could find and I didnt see this kart anywhere. Maybe it's Chinese or something, but it's a seriously stout, well built, full featured kart. It does not have electric start, or lights or anything like that though. I am stumped and could really use some help identifying this. Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

[panchothedog]

That is a " Baja motor sports blaster 65 " I am not guessing, I own one. I bought mine brand new here in San Diego from Pep Boys Auto Parts in 2008.
It was the last of a discontinued model back then a few years later ( don't know how many ) the Baja motor sports company went out of business. I have hunted high and low for a new parts source and have had no luck. I have improvised and adapted as needed. Still have ours, and it's held up pretty well.

 

[GoldKart]

Thank you Panchothedog! I really appreciate your help. I bought it because that frame is pretty solid. It seems a bit wider than some of the other two seaters I looked at and I liked the larger tube stock, so I figured it was a solid starting point for a custom project. I was able to find a source for some of the parts. A place called alpa-sports. I was just reading about this model and lots of folks had issues with the rear axle setup. Apparently they strip the splines on the center shaft easily? Have you had to deal with that? If so, how did you fix it? My biggest issue is the steering rack. It's toast and that is not easy to find. Have you had to replace yours? If so, can you recommend an aftermarket unit that fits?

 

[Denny]

What ever you do replace it with an all aluminum one. The ones with plastic pieces break too easily.

 

[GoldKart]

Thanks Denny. I will absolutely do that. I am going to go as heavy duty as possible.

 

[panchothedog]

Hey GK you are wright the kart is wider than most.I have 4 karts and all are two seater with torque converter. Five grandkids and everybody wants to drive. The extra width really helps with stability. I have seen one of my other karts up on two wheels and another they managed to get it all the way over on its side.
Fearless. But the Baja Blaster no way. I have really gotten into building the predator and clone engines over the last two years and the hottest one I have is on the Blaster, probably 15-16 hp. In the dirt it will corner like a crossed up sprint car and on asphalt ( different tires ) it's like a little sports car. Handles fantastic. No trouble with the rear axle and last summer I took them to Pismo Beach with 20" tall paddle tires. It proved to be too much for the drive belts, comet belt lasted about an hour and a half, Chinese extras about 30 minutes each. That had to be quite taxing to the rear splines and axle U joints. Two areas that failed was one of the front spindles, the cast part where the tie rod connects. This was early on, they were still in business and I was able to order a new one. The other was on the lower frame rail there is a welded on tab where the rear of the lower A arm attaches busted off. Welding shop fix. For almost 14 years of ownership and use, it has brought my grandkids and myself many many smiles.

 

[GoldKart]

Well that makes me feel better. I mean, I paid 200 cash and traded a handful of seat heaters for it. Pretty good deal, even if it does need work. I think the rear end is OK, so really I just have a bunch of work to do on the steering assembly and the engine.... and seat belts! I have been looking at it and I may be able to rebuild this steering rack actually. If I can fix that I will be in business. The engine needs some work, but worst case, I just buy a new predator and be done with it. I do need to finagle some kind of replacement for the adjusting rod for the steering bar. It is missing so that bar that the steering wheel is attached to just folds up and down. I was thinking of finding an old screw-style chain turnbuckle and making some bushings for it. I think thats basically what the original one is anyways. That alphasports site wants like $170 bucks for it! I can find a chain turnbuckle for $5 to $20 depending on the size. Like the pic attached. Is that close to what it looks like on yours? Any way you can send me a pick or tell me the dimensions of yours? Total length and diameter? I am going to Start working on it this weekend, so wish me luck! And thanks for all the feedback!

 

[panchothedog]

Hey GK. When I bought mine since it had already been discontinued, the store wouldn't assemble it and they also said it was missing some parts. It was all of the bolts that hold the roll cage together as well as onto the chassis. Included in those missing parts was you guessed it, the piece that holds up the steering loop. I see now that you posted a picture of a turnbuckel and that is exactly what I have on mine. The one I used FWIW has a center body that is 31/2 " omg and the threaded shanks are 5/16" in diameter . I also used a couple of nuts, one standard and one reverse thread to lock down like jam nuts against the turnbuckel body to prevent any movement. As I mentioned I have a very hopped up predator engine on it but the stock 196 cc clone !motor that came on it is on another kart and still running strong. Depending on how thrashed yours is or how tight money may be you might not want to give up on it.

 

[GoldKart]

Perfect! I will drown it in wd40 before I give up. I will run it into the ground before I decide to buy a new one! The guy I bought it from left the air box off and it was outside, so I am guessing there is water in it. It's not seized, so I think I can salvage it. I can't wait tobtear into thing thing! I may even start pulling g the engine off tonight if I get off work early. At least start making a list of everything I need, bolts, turnbuckle, and get a good look at the steering rack to see what I am up against there. I do need to get new wheels for it. Andy idea what wheel size and offset? They are all pretty rusty and one is toast, so I at least need one wheel for the front right.

 

[panchothedog]

Of the wheel is just bent around the edge, tire shops have a tool that looks like a giant crescent wrench with a fixed slot in it and can somewhat straighten out dented edge. I have street and dirt tires for mine mounted on separate wheels.
The size is 8" x 5" and the bolt pattern is 4 x 110. Not a real common size. The 4 just means 4 holes but the 110 is the measurement in millimeters across the bolt pattern. I bought mine from Go Power Sports in Texas. The offset was centered and I believe the stock wheels are not as I had to add about a 1/8" spacer over each lug to achieve proper on clearance on the fronts. By doing that they work fine.

 

[Denny]

I would rebuild the carb first. Then change the oil, a little atf or Marvel Mystery oil in the cylinder and a few slow pulls with the plug out. Then put the plug back in and dump some gas down the carb and pull away and check for signs of life first. If you have signs or it starts clean the fuel tank and replace the lines and run it. If nothing then remove the engine and tear it apart.

 

[redflash]

You can buy an 8 inch or 11 inch solid beefy rack and pinion assembly from Nex Gen off road. about $100 buckers. I use it on my off road arachnid.
rock solid and smooth. Made for serious off road sand buggies.

Da Flash

 

[GoldKart]

Excellent. You are a wealth of information, sir! That kind of funny actually. I just bought 2 new sets of tires and a second set of wheels for my son's Manco Dingo for the same reason. I get most of my posts for that kart from them or BMI. Pulled off the rack after work today. It's actually working perfectly but need new tire rods and boots, so way easier than I thought it was going to be. Lower control arm joint is toast though. Since they are no longer available, I think I may cut off the old joints and weld a nut on the end so I can just thread in the upper joints in their place. Would be really easy to swap them out the next time they go out too. Unless you know of any aftermarket control arms that bolt up easily? Have you had to fix those yet?

 

[GoldKart]

I would rebuild the carb first. Then change the oil, a little atf or Marvel Mystery oil in the cylinder and a few slow pulls with the plug out. Then put the plug back in and dump some gas down the carb and pull away and check for signs of life first. If you have signs or it starts clean the fuel tank and replace the lines and run it. If nothing then remove the engine and tear it apart.

Sounds like a plan. Pulled my steering off today to assess the damage. I am in good shape there and parts are ordered. Engine is next. The pull rope is busted and has some issues retracting so I have to deal that, but should know if that engine is any good this weekend for sure.

 

[Denny]

Good decision, why rebuild the engine if it doesn’t need it. What about adapting a inner or outer tie rod end off an older GM rear wheel drive car? It would be beefier than the lower balljoint that is on there now and you could just run to the auto parts store when you need a new one.

 

[GoldKart]

Hmmm......now that's an interesting idea Denny. I actually have a ton of random NOS auto parts. I used to be in the automotive closeout business. When we moved buildings, my bosses were throwing out all kinds of parts. I would dumpster dive and have a huge assortment of brake and clutch master cylinders, tie rods, springs and a few other things. I may actually have some that would work and they would definitely be more durable. Thanks for the suggestion!

 

[Denny]

Glad I could help!