My very first go kart build - yellow jacket - please help

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Tazdude

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This is my first go kart build and I know very little. I'm working on a yellow jacket.

I know that it has four 12 inch shocks, two in the back and one on each of the front tires. the tires are 145/70-6. All the shocks are gone, and the tires are trash.

It has a live axle that is in a square tube that's welded to the frame. I can't bang the axle in or out and the drive tire is stuck and keyed. A 9" 60 tooth sprocket is bolted to the drive tire and we can't get either off. The sprocket is for a 420 chain, but since the sprocket is bent, should I stay with a 420 or go for a different size? I don't know what parts are missing, and I need help. Please tell me what part you think I'm missing. I bought a predator 212, but it is still in the box as I don't have any other parts to go with it. Should I get a clutch or torque converter? This will be an off road go kart as I don't have any concrete on my property. What about tire size? Oh and there's no seat, but I have the hardware for the bracket, but it's not adjustable. This will be used by teens. Thank you in advance for any ideas, advice, photos of other Yellow jackets for reference, or links to manuals or part lists. I've searched and searched and searched online and can't find much. I have also done a search on this forum for yellow jacket and read them all. But no one has had my problems, it seems.

Oh, and this was free as it was left behind at the house we bought this year. 20200718_182237.jpg20200718_182242.jpg2020071895182247.jpg20200718_182104.jpg2020071895182252.jpg20201012_202316.jpg20201012_202322.jpg20201012_202330.jpg
 
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Functional Artist

Functional Artist

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It looks like that kart has "lived" out in the weather for quite a while :(

I'd start off by soaking everything (especially the rear axle stuff) with penetrating oil (WD 40 etc.)

While everything is soaking, do lots more research (here on the forum) on axle/bearing issues.
(doesn't have to be for your specific kart, many are designed the same)

Then, soak everything down again (it may need a few applications)

While everything is soaking (deeper) maybe look around your area for someone who may be able to "press" the wheel off
...or the axle, out of the bearings (most times continued "beating" on it just makes things worse)

Worst case, you may have to actually cut the axle, to get 'er apart :eek:

* Also, while soaking you can look around @ BMI karts (or other vendors) for replacement parts.
example:
BMI has axles for (~$30.00) https://www.bmikarts.com/1-Steel-Live-Axle_p_517.html
...wheels for (~$20.00 ea.) https://www.bmikarts.com/6-x-4-12-Steel-Rim-1-Bore_p_5402.html
...12" shocks (~$20.00 ea.) https://www.bmikarts.com/Mechanical-Adjustable-Shock--12_p_1281.html
 
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Tazdude

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Functional Artist said:
It looks like that kart has "lived" out in the weather for quite a while :(

I'd start off by soaking everything (especially the rear axle stuff) with penetrating oil (WD 40 etc.)

While everything is soaking, do lots more research (here on the forum) on axle/bearing issues.
(doesn't have to be for your specific kart, many are designed the same)

Then, soak everything down again (it may need a few applications)

While everything is soaking (deeper) maybe look around your area for someone who may be able to "press" the wheel off
...or the axle, out of the bearings (most times continued "beating" on it just makes things worse)

Worst case, you may have to actually cut the axle, to get 'er apart :eek:

* Also, while soaking you can look around @ BMI karts (or other vendors) for replacement parts.
example:
BMI has axles for (~$30.00) https://www.bmikarts.com/1-Steel-Live-Axle_p_517.html
...wheels for (~$20.00 ea.) https://www.bmikarts.com/6-x-4-12-Steel-Rim-1-Bore_p_5402.html
...12" shocks (~$20.00 ea.) https://www.bmikarts.com/Mechanical-Adjustable-Shock--12_p_1281.html
Click to expand...
Yes, thank you for those suggestions. I've sprayed PB blaster on just about everything, but I'll keep doing it because yes, it's rusty and a lot of the moving parts, don't. Lol I'm hoping to not have to cut off the axle if possible; I'd prefer to remove and replace the bearings and rod. And thanks for the links; I'll explore them.
 
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Tazdude

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Karttekk said:
That's a Manco 415-D sold by Sears under the Avenger name. Here's a parts manual for it, maybe it will help you get some parts that are close to original as far as sizes and specifications.

Click to expand...
Thank you so much!!! I've been looking for A parts list and I've explored some Manco models manuals but couldn't find one that matched. I'll look at both of these and see what I can find. Thank you again!!
 
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Tazdude

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Karttekk said:
That's a Manco 415-D sold by Sears under the Avenger name. Here's a parts manual for it, maybe it will help you get some parts that are close to original as far as sizes and specifications.

Click to expand...
Well, it's not exactly the same as my rear end is hinged with 2 shocks and this is fixed, but aside from that it is very similar and I'm sure I can pull some parts numbers and sizes off this. Thanks again.
 
madprofessor

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Everything you need to start with is there, plus some other stuff that needs to be thrown away. Your basic frame w/swingarm, front spindles and tierods, steering shaft and wheel, can all be used. The only unknown of that is the condition of the rear axle bearings in those cups, and if you've already been beating on that wheel I wouldn't trust them anyway. The bent up drive wheel with sprocket and what looks like a brake drum for external band brake need to disappear, along with any other wheels and tires. I strongly recommend getting a new set of SPLIT rims (with innertubes w/L-shaped valves) all the way around with all new tires. I don't even know how people manage to put tires on little solid single-piece wheels, only use 6" split rims myself, historically with 4.10 x 3.50 x 6 knobby tires. Rear wheels can be had with the hub bore that fits your axle, front ones with bearings that fit your spindles' axles. Your Predator 212 would need less maintenance with a simple clutch instead of a belt-drive CVT, you did say teen use. You'll need a new axle sprocket, so here's your chance to go mainstream and less money with #35 sprocket and chain. You can use the type rim with sprocket/brake drum attached on that left rear staying with a split rim. FYI: Internal shoe brakes might give you dragging problems where external band brakes seldom have problems. The manual provided above should make new rear bearings available to you. Why do I use 6" rims? Largest available in split rim, which keeps axle sprocket the farthest up out of the sand as possible. Match your clutch's drive sprocket teeth and axle sprocket's teeth ratio for the use you want in the end. Example; My own (#35) 5:1 ratio (12-tooth/60-tooth) gives me a fair top end speed with a fair low end acceleration. Switching to a 6:1 ratio (12-tooth/72-tooth) would reduce my top end speed for safety's sake while increasing my low end acceleration. For teens that's likely your safest route.
 
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Eb24

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Looks like we're on similar paths! Just got this one.
 

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