My summer projects

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r_chez_08

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Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck the jackshaft bent :(
Time to redo jackshaft, sprockets and chan. Ffs!!!!
I feel like crying right now!
 

r_chez_08

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I drilled a 6mm hole through it because my method of attaching the sprocket was a bolt not a keyway. However before the hole was only halfway through the hole and threaded. Now i have a through bolt and it significanly weakened the jackshaft and it bent like 3/4" off centre, threw the chain and snapped it.

Time to make a new jackshaft with keyways and places for circlips instead of lock collars.
Will mild steel be ok?
 

r_chez_08

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Hmm yeah I will get some pics in a minute. It started with a small wobble and then it suddenly did this :( it smacked into the engine, thats how bent it is :/.
 

r_chez_08

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Here you go...
The new steel I bought for a new jackshaft is next to it for comparison.
I will make up a new jackshaft at school and key my new sprocket and install a set screw.

My kart headlights are pretty bright!

I have also included some pics of my new kill switch, which was a £1.30 on off on toggle switch, which means that when it is flicked either up or down it will kill the engine, and in the middle position it stays on.

Here is my finished steering, and the finished spindle, minus bushing.
I still have the problem of the bushing not wanting to slide up and down the bolt because of my KPI. I lubed it with "chain lube" which is essentially grease in a spray can.
do I need linear/rotation bearings? and is there such a thing? at the moment you have to jump on the front end to get a rather jurky action of the spring compressing, due to the bushing not sliding smoothly.

Edit: I am going to add the reinforcement onto the "C" spindle bracket, because it looks weak.
She really needs a coat of purple paint and some TLC :( only 4 days left of my hols though.
In the christmas hols I plan to paint her purple with white trim, like I mentioned before, but I want to source easy to apply paint for under £15. I may add the rear suspension but its not a priority

I also think I need a real straight pipe, painted white and the engine shroud painted purple. My pipe looks crap and the bolts come loose really quick due to its weight.

TO DO:
Bike-
Install a cast aluminium backplate or cut and heavily reinforce the steel one
put new belt on
make gas tank mounts

Kart
-new rear sprocket (difficult to install because I need to drill mounting holes in it and I have rusted on axle bearings)
-New jackshaft, j/s sprocket and chain
-install kill switch and maybe a bike speedo
-at christmas I need to strip down the frame, paint purple and also maybe install the rear shocks
-make a straight pipe
-make a new seat bracket because the old one has never been strong.
-strip down the clone, remove the crankshaft and fix it (there is a major chip in the keyway due to the torque converter falling off)
-Rev the SH!T out of that clone!!!!!! and try not to die from a grenading flywheel ;)
 

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redsox985

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That jack shaft is exceptionally long and has minimal, actually not enough, support.
 

r_chez_08

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It worked fine for ages, is it not just because I drilled a 1/4" hole for the sprocket to mount?
If not how do you suggest I reinforce it?
 

r_chez_08

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Do you think it needs an extra bearing? It did it when the chain came off, but I think it came off because it bent.
 

r97

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In its current setup, i would suggest a minimum of 3 js bearings. try moving the sprocket much closer to the torque converter and moving the bearings in. :iagree: you should reinforce your steering, "C" brackets, spindles, and tie rods.
 

r_chez_08

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Ok I will try and figure out a way of mounting a 3rd bearing. I will also move the sprocket slightly closer to the bearing. I know I need to reinforce the brackets, but how can I reinforce the tie rods and spindles?

And b man, what is the flaw? I know it doesnt like to move up and down because of the angle and it will also change my steering geometry slightly when moving up, but is there something else?

Edit: i have had the previous jackshaft bend by a few mm when the chain came off and jammed, causing loads of torque being thrown at the jackshaft. I think it bent this time because it hada 1/4" hole drilled through it and because the bigger wheels put more strain on the shaft.

I cannot figure out how I can easily mount an extra bearing though.
 

B man

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when the spring compresses it looks like it will hit the rim or tire,

you have all that spring but not alot of area to let it compress.
 

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Doc Sprocket

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Boy, you really did taco that jackshaft, didn't you! You certainly want to avoid cross-drilling it. But I would still suggest adding a support bearing close to the sprocket. Even with a wee bit of chain tension, you might be surprised at how much it can flex.
 

DCProductions

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when the spring compresses it looks like it will hit the rim or tire,

you have all that spring but not alot of area to let it compress.

The entire spindle assembly moves with the rim. It will remain that distance from the wheel throughout suspension travel. It does look like it will though.

I see now that you used forward facing spindle arms (pitman arms?) rather than backward. Did you incorporate Ackerman?
 

r_chez_08

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when the spring compresses it looks like it will hit the rim or tire,

you have all that spring but not alot of area to let it compress.

Me and my dad looked at this and I suggested a spacer keeping the wheel out. However we worked out that the springs do not have enough travel for the bracket to hit.

Boy, you really did taco that jackshaft, didn't you! You certainly want to avoid cross-drilling it. But I would still suggest adding a support bearing close to the sprocket. Even with a wee bit of chain tension, you might be surprised at how much it can flex.
I have ordered another 3/4" pillow block bearing for £7. Will fit it up so that it is just next to the sprocket (up to 1" away)

The entire spindle assembly moves with the rim. It will remain that distance from the wheel throughout suspension travel. It does look like it will though.

The spindle does move with the rim but the bracket does not. I can see what B man is saying

I see now that you used forward facing spindle arms (pitman arms?) rather than backward. Did you incorporate Ackerman?
I did :) atleast tried. The steering works well, as in the inside wheel turns a tighter radius than the outside wheel and I have KPI of 10* and the camber cancels the KPI out when the wheels are pointing straight, but when you turn the wheel "Tilts".
I have also inorperated 15* of caster so the king pin points back, which means that one side of the kart lifts and the other side goes down (This does make it slightly difficult to steer!)
 

r_chez_08

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Bump! Minibike update!
I found a way to mount the steel back plate with little modification, just the removal of a bracket.
I moved the jackshaft which allowed the plate room. I had to raise the enginr by 1".
I am currently waiting for some jb weld to dry on the engine (i broke one of the mounting points, not sure how.)

All I need is one v belt which should be here next week.
I have also ordered a small tin of red hammerite to give the bike a re coat because i didnt do enough coats originally, and I need to paint the new welds/ steel

Finally i have re mounted my cheapy chineese £4 mechanical brake caliper and it now can lock up the wheel! Sweet!

She should be running next weekend! Then I need a straight pipe and to put on a gx390 carb I have, and get a k&n style pitbike filter.

On my kart I have recieved the additional bearing. I need to some how remove the rusted on axle bearings though. I have a puller but I do not believe it is long enough.
Any suggestions?
 

DCProductions

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Are the bearing still on the bent axle? If so, you could cut the axle. That's what I had to do with a 1" axle and BOY was it difficult!
 
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