My Mini Bike setup, looking for the Adventure Mode......

Bansil

Bansil

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Let's talk mini bike setup.

I know I haven't ridden in 45 years but dang, I remember these being easier to ride. I have been watching youtube videos of people plain ripping it, even all the races GPS and others do, on pavement, dirt, gravel in the woods on single track...etc.

I don't know if it is the tire pattern of what.

What type of air pressure should I try?

Also think I want 3 inch risers or taller bars so steering feels better, they basically don't turn for crap you can only lean so far on grassy hills before it wants to slip.

Maybe I just need more time on it..dunno

Any tips??

Just talking, will head home in a few and try to video again
 
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BrownStainRacing

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It's those v treads. They are the cheapest, so manufacturers use them. I don't like em on minis, they seem to want to steer me into ruts. They suk on gokarts too.

I also found a bigger tire in front will help with steering. I run a 20" on the back and 21" in the front. Some others around here run a 19" back and 21" in front, but they lighter then me. The front dont wanna wash out from you. Jus look at ALL Motorcycles, always a bigger tire in the front.

I'm 200# and put 5-6 psi in back for a lil bounce, cushion, and 10 psi in front for the hydraulic forks.
 
Bansil

Bansil

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I rode around or tried to ride around last night, the biggest problem seems to be that our property is not flat, so it will not turn up or down when side sloping. Up/down flat is great.

On a side note my front tire is backwards compared to wifes bike and that doesn't make a difference, figured it might.

Will check tire pressure.

Also took note that throttle response or T/C response is slow so it's jerky and not smooth which contributes to poor handling.

I took up slack in throttle cable and that helped.

I think I need to tune the T/C on these...I am sure I saw an article somewhere on how to do that
 
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BrownStainRacing

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Bansil said:
I rode around or tried to ride around last night, the biggest problem seems to be that our property is not flat, so it will not turn up or down when side sloping. Up/down flat is great.

On a side note my front tire is backwards compared to wifes bike and that doesn't make a difference, figured it might.

Will check tire pressure.

Also took note that throttle response or T/C response is slow so it's jerky and not smooth which contributes to poor handling.

I took up slack in throttle cable and that helped.

I think I need to tune the T/C on these...I am sure I saw an article somewhere on how to do that
Click to expand...
The throttle assembly is not really designed for mini bikes on these engines. They're more for utility uses, set it and forget it.

If you notice, you will only get about a 1/4 turn outta the twist grip when going from idle to WOT. This makes things a lil sketchy on loose, slippery or uneven terrain. It's either not enough or way too much and breaking the tire loose. A lil bit slack in cable helped me,... some.

There's some throttle assemblies on the market that will give you more throttle control in the twist grip (throw) with out affecting the governor rpm, or any other rpm settings. They're adjustable, but i dont think you can get a full turn from idle to WOT.
I have a throttle plate that gives me almost 3/4 turn, no gov and no stock tank.

Jus make sure you look at the ones for governed engines, with stock gas tanks.

You might be able to make your own, it jus a lever with holes for different ratio's.

Those stock Chinese driver weights are usally not the same weight. I've seen em as much as 12 grams different.
Being the same weight will make for a smoother engagement and not so jerky.
I use a "dopers" gram scale and wire wheel on a bench grinder to get them the same weight.

You can also try the white driver springs (3100 rpm). They will help from the instance jerk the stock 2200 rpm springs give from the short throw of the twist grip.

My grandson learned alot better throttle control when using a lil more rpm engagement, I got his set at 2800 rpm, with aluminum weights and 2 pink springs.
The aluminum weights also seem to be more smoother then those heavy zinc weights.

1 white spring and 1 plain (stock) spring with zinc weights (stock), will give you around 2600 rpm engagement. Works really good for stock gov'ed engines, and sketchy terrain. Deceleration is not so grappy when going down hill.

2 white springs, zinc weights is 3100 rpm engagement. Good for hot rodding, hard launches, digging holes and will put you on your head when launching from idle to WOT on hard surfaces, gov'ed or no gov'ed. Better for karts, then daily driver mini bikes.

 
BaconBitRacing

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BrownStainRacing said:
The throttle assembly is not really designed for mini bikes on these engines. They're more for utility uses, set it and forget it.

If you notice, you will only get about a 1/4 turn outta the twist grip when going from idle to WOT. This makes things a lil sketchy on loose, slippery or uneven terrain. It's either not enough or way too much and breaking the tire loose. A lil bit slack in cable helped me,... some.

There's some throttle assemblies on the market that will give you more throttle control in the twist grip (throw) with out affecting the governor rpm, or any other rpm settings. They're adjustable, but i dont think you can get a full turn from idle to WOT.
I have a throttle plate that gives me almost 3/4 turn, no gov and no stock tank.

Jus make sure you look at the ones for governed engines, with stock gas tanks.

You might be able to make your own, it jus a lever with holes for different ratio's.

Those stock Chinese driver weights are usally not the same weight. I've seen em as much as 12 grams different.
Being the same weight will make for a smoother engagement and not so jerky.
I use a "dopers" gram scale and wire wheel on a bench grinder to get them the same weight.

You can also try the white driver springs (3100 rpm). They will help from the instance jerk the stock 2200 rpm springs give from the short throw of the twist grip.

My grandson learned alot better throttle control when using a lil more rpm engagement, I got his set at 2800 rpm, with aluminum weights and 2 pink springs.
The aluminum weights also seem to be more smoother then those heavy zinc weights.

1 white spring and 1 plain (stock) spring with zinc weights (stock), will give you around 2600 rpm engagement. Works really good for stock gov'ed engines, and sketchy terrain. Deceleration is not so grappy when going down hill.

2 white springs, zinc weights is 3100 rpm engagement. Good for hot rodding, hard launches, digging holes and will put you on your head when launching from idle to WOT on hard surfaces, gov'ed or no gov'ed. Better for karts, then daily driver mini bikes.

Click to expand...
You can certainly go a lot more aggressive on a kart, not worrying about flipping means if your tires have grip, you go. A great demonstration of this is Top Fuel or Funny Cars vs. Drag Bikes, and looking at times. Power to weight isn't the only reason Top Fuel goes so fast, Traction and clutch control. I find it hilarious that the fast accelerating cars on earth share more drivetrain qualities with a kart running a clutch than a F1 car. Think about karts and how much travel the gas pedal has and the extra grip of two tires and more weight, then essentially half the traction, and remove some control, and make it easier to take on narrow, difficult trails, yeah, it's gonna spin the tire.
 
Bansil

Bansil

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BrownStainRacing said:
The throttle assembly is not really designed for mini bikes on these engines. They're more for utility uses, set it and forget it.

If you notice, you will only get about a 1/4 turn outta the twist grip when going from idle to WOT. This makes things a lil sketchy on loose, slippery or uneven terrain. It's either not enough or way too much and breaking the tire loose. A lil bit slack in cable helped me,... some.

There's some throttle assemblies on the market that will give you more throttle control in the twist grip (throw) with out affecting the governor rpm, or any other rpm settings. They're adjustable, but i dont think you can get a full turn from idle to WOT.
I have a throttle plate that gives me almost 3/4 turn, no gov and no stock tank.

Jus make sure you look at the ones for governed engines, with stock gas tanks.

You might be able to make your own, it jus a lever with holes for different ratio's.

Those stock Chinese driver weights are usally not the same weight. I've seen em as much as 12 grams different.
Being the same weight will make for a smoother engagement and not so jerky.
I use a "dopers" gram scale and wire wheel on a bench grinder to get them the same weight.

You can also try the white driver springs (3100 rpm). They will help from the instance jerk the stock 2200 rpm springs give from the short throw of the twist grip.

My grandson learned alot better throttle control when using a lil more rpm engagement, I got his set at 2800 rpm, with aluminum weights and 2 pink springs.
The aluminum weights also seem to be more smoother then those heavy zinc weights.

1 white spring and 1 plain (stock) spring with zinc weights (stock), will give you around 2600 rpm engagement. Works really good for stock gov'ed engines, and sketchy terrain. Deceleration is not so grappy when going down hill.

2 white springs, zinc weights is 3100 rpm engagement. Good for hot rodding, hard launches, digging holes and will put you on your head when launching from idle to WOT on hard surfaces, gov'ed or no gov'ed. Better for karts, then daily driver mini bikes.

Click to expand...
Yeah, I will work on it this weekend, the throttle travel is the issue, almost like driving my old 78 Monte Carlo with a 434 SBC and 3500 stall with manual valve body.

Throttle response is what I will work on 1st.
 
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BrownStainRacing

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Bansil said:
Went to storage and found 2 of these from old project
View attachment 138341
They say same size...looks are deceiving
View attachment 138342
Say the same, reckon it will balloon up?
View attachment 138343

Hope to mount tonight or in morning.

Everything I have seen and read....this should be big improvement
Click to expand...
I've got 2) sunf tires, different model's 20x7x8. When new, 1 was 1" taller then then other, both measured with 10psi.

Change the rear 1st and see if you like the "taller in front". It changed the whole bike for me.

Kids around here take an angle grinder and cut the V outta the v-treads and make smaller knobs. Seems to work better for them.

I'm jus not a fan of v-treads on minis.

The slide carb swap is not a bolt on deal. I hope it works out for you.

Good luck 👍
 
Bansil

Bansil

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Well got tire swapped out....easier than I remember 40 years ago....
20230520_203823.jpg

But...even with a 1-1/2 ratchet strap...nothing but a square tire happened both beads 2" away...tomorrow will try 3" ratchet strap...to get tire to seat

I like the tire grooving idea...probably still got mine from years ago, it was setup with 3/16 -1/4 blades
 
Bansil

Bansil

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Well after a cup of coffee,I went out earlier and tried 3 inch strap, plus other ones...no go.
:mad:
Next? Biscuits and sausage gravy, over medium fried eggs with a mimosa.

Then work on deck, planter and till some more.

I think I can get one side to seal with help ,so will try that plus ratchet strap (wrapped in a hvy blanket incase it explodes) and see if a small internal gas explosion will help seat last side. :p


I need to buy a new valve stem tool, last night I walked into house and neighbor up the street was playing carrom , they said how's it going?

Slow, I can't find valve stem tool....

Oh, wait a second, whiley stands up and pulls a miniature one out of his pocket :ROFLMAO:
 
Bansil

Bansil

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Well, all shops around here close at 17:00 or 17:30 and closed weird days of the week, may have to wait until Friday, since I don't get of until after they close...PITA

I do have all my carb stuff and may work on it tonight so I can have that done at least



This the way I grooved my tires back in the day
 
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