Live Axle Bearings Replacement & Drive Hub Options

Dan1980

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I just know them for joining readyrod/all thread lengths...
A long nut..
https://www.mcmaster.com/threaded-rod-coupling-nuts

Ah, I got you. Duh! Yeah, that would be an easier way to build a hub and make it stronger too. Thank you!

At this point we are leaning towards, if possible, to go with the double flanged hub I linked to with a replacement axle that is longer because that hub is just over a 1/2" wider. We like this idea because it avoids any welding which I've never done and we're tryin' to get this thing rollin' asap. We'll have to also find a suitable hub for the other side with the same bolt circle.

So, that brings up another possible issue. We measured the distance the front wheels stick out relative to the rear wheels and also the difference between each of the rears and found that the front wheels sit more inward and also the left rear drive wheel sits more outward than the right.

What is the optimal arrangement of wheel distances relative to each other, all 4 in line or maybe the fronts a bit inward?
 

Dan1980

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Here's mo pics:


 

mckutzy

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Id polish up the shaft ends with scotchbright, make sure no mushroomed ends...
Get some big hammers and pieces of 2x4 to hammer on over the shaft.
Heat the bearings and try to drive the shaft out...

At least try to get one or both bearings unseated from the cups, then youll be able to get a puller in and remove it the rest of the way off.
 

Dan1980

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Anybody have any thoughts on wheel placement? What is the optimal arrangement of wheel distances relative to each other, all 4 in line or maybe the fronts a bit inward?

AND

This kart came with axle nuts that were not the stop nut kind. If you tighten them down tight enough that they don't back off doesn't that put undue tension on the inside of the hub where it sits flush against the bearing? Wouldn't one want a bit of space there so the axle spins as freely as possible? I think a castle nut with a cotter pin would be better.
 

mckutzy

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You can have a washer between, use nylon lock nuts, or like you said, drill and use castle nuts/cotter pins.

As for wheel placement.. Are the rear the same or different size widths???
Typically wide wheels on the back, skinny on the front..
It has no diff so it not so much of a concern.
 

mckutzy

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Honestly Id just leave it... If it doesnt look like it was crashed or bent in some way.. Its a yard kart... Itll be fine...
 

Dan1980

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I got you. Reason for asking is because we're rebuilding the whole rear end anyway so why not do it right.
 

mckutzy

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Cool...
Show us what you come up with when you start building....
This comes up a number of times... Plenty of people are wanting to know...
 

Dan1980

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Will do. Right now we're waiting on the PB Blaster to soak in on that axle and I contacted BMI waiting to hear back on more exact dimensions of that double flanged hub.
 

Dan1980

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Got the axle and bearings out today. :wai: Cleaned up nice. The bearing size was 1-5/8" OD x 1/2" width. Waiting on parts.
 

2cls2h8

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I am just starting my first complete rebuild and have this same rear axle setup. Very interested to see how how you proceed. I will get some pictures of mine up tonight. Its a Road Boss 650XL Cobra II.
 

Dan1980

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After getting parts we were finally able to start the next phase of rebuild. Took so long partly because we were sent the wrong axle and they left out other parts also. Since the front bumper of this kart was wrecked and bent we decided to straighten it up. We wedged it into our trailer tongue and pulled it back into shape with a come-along.

This was the first setup:






Used various other arrangements of leveraging and now the front end is a bit better. However we did brake a weld on the left side. Should have heated things up. No biggie for now. Fix that later. :oops:




More to come later. Next, paint prep... :cheers2:
 

Dan1980

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Hey everybody,

Obviously haven't updated in a while. Sorry about that. To fill y'all in here we did a bunch to it and basically finished so now we're working through perfecting it, which of course will never be done. We painted thick with multiple top coats and finished the hubs. Put everything back together but hadn't yet drilled holes into the ends of the axle for the castle nut cotter pins before we started riding it. Took it out and man does it shred! So much fun fishtailing and doing donuts in the sandy area around here. We estimate it may go around 30 as is. We have the Stage 1 kit ready to be put on but going to order a GPS speedo first. At some point we spun an axle nut and brass washer that we couldn't ever find and moved on to other things. Finally got back to it. Had the axle drilled and ordered some new parts. Rode some more and broke the custom brake linkage we previously fabricated out of a cable turnbuckle. The original rod was just too floppy to use with the bigger motor on it. So that's where we are now. It needs more solid breaking. Not going to disk brakes on this so our new plan is to do a crossover two rod system that is more robust than one rod that flexes too much. Feast yer eyes on these pictures. Wish I had one of the adjustable brake rod we made before it broke. Actually broke it twice. It really worked pretty good but just flexed too much at the pedal because of the angle relative to the shoe. And, sad to say I don't have any pictures of it finished. Sorry about that. I'll try to upload some soon. Let us know what y'all think.

 

madprofessor

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Look at the 1" live axle setup in the attached picture. Simplicity itself using cheap pillow block bearings, and a sprocket hub to carry a split sprocket (6 screws hold the 2 pieces). Start over with a 1" axle and sprocket hub, then change ratios with those split sprockets as you wish, just 6 screws, nothing to pull off of the axle. Note: You don't need to use 4 bearings like I did, but they sell them on Ebay usually in lots of 2,4,8, etc.
 

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