Live Axle Bearings Replacement & Drive Hub Options

Dan1980

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Hey all,


Okay here's the deal. We need to replace these axle bearings and haven't figured out an easy way to remove them.



I was thinking that if there is some kind of flange that's a part of the axle on either side behind the bearings then you could just whack the end of the axle and pop out the other side's bearing, then switch to the other side. Is that the case or do I need to just tear into them?

Also we haven't been able to find a replacement drive hub. Been to just about every web-store. This hub mounts the wheel, sprocket & brake all-in-one. What options are out there as an alternative?


 

Dan1980

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If you have a long enough screwdriver or metal dowel you can hammer from the other side.
If not I like to use the blind bearing puller with slide hammer. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZZ2FPVQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for the suggestions.

There's no way to get a screwdriver or dowel in there as the axle and both bearings are still installed on either side and the bearing puller would only work if the axle wasn't there.

Will the axle come out freely by whacking on it?
 

JTSpeedDemon

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For the hub, that's a Carter Bros. "clover" hub. They are unfortunately, extremely rare. If you can't find a replacement, you may have to redo the rear end to a more conventional size.

That said, why do you need to replace the hub? Looks fine to me.
 

JTSpeedDemon

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TBH, I'm not sure what exactly is an odd size. I think it's the bolt circle, but it may be the axle diameter. All I really know is that they're very rare!

If you need a new sprocket, I know some websites sell blanks with no bolt holes, you just have to drill your own.
 

Dan1980

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most likely, put some penetrating oil on it and let it sit for a while.

Do you mean oil the shaft so it slides all the way through and out???


For the hub, that's a Carter Bros. "clover" hub. They are unfortunately, extremely rare. If you can't find a replacement, you may have to redo the rear end to a more conventional size.

That said, why do you need to replace the hub? Looks fine to me.

Key-way wallered out:
 

Functional Artist

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To get a stuck bearing off a 1" axle, I have used a 1" open end wrench.

Slide it over the axle, next to the bearing
...& then, use a hammer to tap on the flat area, of the wrench, right next to the bearing till it slides off :cornut:

Also, a little sanding/smoothing between the bearing
...& the end of the axle (removing the rust/corrosion) helps a lot
...plus a bit of lube :cheers2:

If that specific hub is not available
...try look for a substitute :thumbsup:

Maybe something like this :idea2:

https://www.bmikarts.com/Rear-Sprocket-Mounting-Hub-for-the-Coleman-KT196-Go-Kart_p_10639.html
 

mckutzy

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If it were me Id look into building a New drive hub... Make it out of a shaft hub, weld on new nubs that are threaded rod couplers of the same size(save time Tapping a thread) or tabs like above. Use the old set to setup the new one for spacing of the new hub....
 

Dan1980

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Okay, I think maybe y'all are misunderstanding my question as it relates to removing the old bearings. I'll back up a bit in my explanation.

The 3/4 dia. axle shaft itself is about 4 or 5 feet long and it is encased inside of a tube welded to the frame. I need to remove the 2 bearings, one on either side of the tube. How can remove the bearings without first removing the axle itself or how do I remove the axle to pull out the bearings?

Is the axle made to slide all the way through and out the other side?
 

Functional Artist

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Okay, I think maybe y'all are misunderstanding my question as it relates to removing the old bearings. I'll back up a bit in my explanation.

The 3/4 dia. axle shaft itself is about 4 or 5 feet long and it is encased inside of a tube welded to the frame. I need to remove the 2 bearings, one on either side of the tube. How can remove the bearings without first removing the axle itself or how do I remove the axle to pull out the bearings?

Is the axle made to slide all the way through and out the other side?

Yup, in that situation
...clean 'er up a bit, add some oil & smack it with a hammer
(use a block of wood to protect the end of the axle from damage)
 

Dan1980

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yes and to your question about oiling the shaft yes.

Yup, in that situation
...clean 'er up a bit, add some oil & smack it with a hammer
(use a block of wood to protect the end of the axle from damage)

Alright, cool!

Now I just need to decide if I should go to the trouble of fixing this axle or not since the "clover hub" is so hard to find. I may want to do the upgrade to a more conventional size axle as JTSpeedDemon mentioned. What is a more conventional size, 1 inch? I've seen a fair amount of parts for 3/4".

Or maybe remake a new hub as mckutzy said. If I do that what would the ideal base hub part look like? mckutzy, what is a shaft hub and what are nubs?
 

JTSpeedDemon

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A 1" axle would be more common, and stronger to boot. I'd replace the axle.

What is the diameter of the current axle?
 

mckutzy

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How about a few pics of the complete rear end and the whole machine??... So we can get a better picture of whats happening..

A shaft hub or coupler, that has a keyed bore, to mount a sprocket or join shafts for a machine.
A Nub, is just a lump of steel of an apropiate thickness to space off the rod couplers... grind to fit and weld in.

Here's an example...

https://www.amazon.com/Climax-RC-07...TANGTSWGSV6&psc=1&refRID=9JDDRRZC7TANGTSWGSV6
 

Dan1980

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Currently 3/4" axle and just so everybody knows the "clover hub" this has uses a 3-1/16" bolt circle and flange to flange is 2-7/16".
 

JTSpeedDemon

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Ah, it would be the bolt circle then. The usual circle is 2 13/16".

3/4" axle? You can just get more conventional sized parts for that axle diameter. Although you will need new wheels, sprocket, and brakes.
 

Dan1980

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First light I'll take more pics.

mckutzy I got you on the shaft hub but I'm lost on rod couplers. The only rod coupler I'm familiar with is the kind that fastens to rods or cables when you want something to move via lever action.

I found this hub on BMI but it's a bit too wide maybe, 3" flange to flange.
 
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