Hi new member looking for advice

SpiritOf76@2

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Hope everyone is doing well. I have a few questions that have probably been addressed quite often but I haven’t come across any of the threads covering them. I’ve never owned a kart of my own but I rode the snot out of one of my childhood friends (the one that had all the cool toys) and am wanting to rekindle some of those good times with my son now (he’s 2). I’ve had a hard time finding something that I think we’d both be able to fit on (able to carry about 250 lbs) and be structurally safe in doing so. The two seaters I’ve found on marketplace and Craigslist look a little on the small side. I’m looking for a traditional style basic kart (no suspension). I have a background in maintenance (hydraulic systems/welding so I’m up to a little bit of fab work if needed to make something work. There’s a non-running Murray nitrox with an older predator 212 in my area (North Western Tennessee) that needs some work done but I haven’t been able to find much online in terms of an overall frame size comparison. Can anyone make any recommendations?
 

Hellion

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I'd wait until he's 8 or so and get both him and yourself separate karts to race.

Most if not all "real go karts" are designed to be small, nimble and offer a cramped riding style for the average adult. They were designed that way, and in most respects they're clown cars. The proper riding posture is 'knees in your chest'. :giggle:

Best thing for size comparisons is to find photos or videos of people riding them.
 

panchothedog

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I have 4 two seat karts that I use with my grandkids. 2 yerf dogs, a Baja motor sports blaster and tomberlin fire fox. They all have a wheelbase of 60" and a seat back to pedal distance of 38" to 40". I am almost 6' and 220 and can fit in all of them ( for about half an hour ). I bought the first one when the oldest was
4 1/2 years old. Had to fabricate some secondary pedals and extend the steering shaft so he could reach. His dad ( ( my son ) and I took him out to a
dry lake bed, smooth and nothing to hit and we had him going on his own in
less than 30 minutes. That was 13 years ago. Now I have a trailer that can haul
3 of them at once and a crew cab truck. I 'm a pretty popular Grandpa. I say go for it. He is still too young but strap him in next to you so he gets used to the noise and vibration. Riding in the kart with dad driving will earn his trust and help quell any fears he might have. In the mean time get him a cheap Wal-Mart style battery powered car so he can begin to grasp the concept of a gas pedal and steering wheel. And most of all BE PATIENT, he's only two.
 

Hellion

Disc brakes are for cowards
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In the mean time get him a cheap Wal-Mart style battery powered car so he can begin to grasp the concept of a gas pedal and steering wheel.
Could not agree more. Get him a little 12V car or truck.

Even though that's a "first step" sort of vehicle, there's guys on Youtube that have upped the performance of these kiddie cars, so it doesn't have to be a use-once-and-discard thing, but upgraded with more batteries/more voltage 6 to 12 to 48V and more...

 

SpiritOf76@2

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Sorry, for not responding to y’all in awhile. The wife had the idea of putting up a chain link fence in our back yard so I’ve been working on that when I wasn’t at work and just finished up today. I was able to find a 2 seater kart yesterday and we picked it up last night. I believe it’s possibly a Manco 285. It’s got the 6hp tecumseh motor on it. It’s a viable starting point but in need of some work. My wife took our little one for a ride on it last night and the clutch started smoking on it while trying to go up a slight incline so I’m thinking of replacing it. I was thinking that most of these karts had torque converters on them. I read that anything with 15 or bigger rear tires need one, (these are 16x8). Is that true. Here are some pics. The label under the steering column is long gone.
 

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panchothedog

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You need a torque converter It will make all the difference in the world. All four of my karts have them and they will climb ANY THING from a dead stop.
I have read a few horror stories about the $55 ones from E bay on this and other sites. 3 of my 4 karts came with them already installed. The only one I
bought new I got from OMB warehouse, it was either $89 or $99 , don't remember right now but it works like a champ, just like the rest of the others, and it is on a big two seater with a strongly modified predator putting out about 13 - 14 hp. Comes complete, every thing you need. I can highly recommend it. By the way your kart looks a little bit like my yerf-dogs. They
both came with the same motor you have and while not a real power house with the torque converter, given room to get topped out in the high range they are good for 28-30 mph. Looks like you have a good start.
 

Jbrewer like

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Hope everyone is doing well. I have a few questions that have probably been addressed quite often but I haven’t come across any of the threads covering them. I’ve never owned a kart of my own but I rode the snot out of one of my childhood friends (the one that had all the cool toys) and am wanting to rekindle some of those good times with my son now (he’s 2). I’ve had a hard time finding something that I think we’d both be able to fit on (able to carry about 250 lbs) and be structurally safe in doing so. The two seaters I’ve found on marketplace and Craigslist look a little on the small side. I’m looking for a traditional style basic kart (no suspension). I have a background in maintenance (hydraulic systems/welding so I’m up to a little bit of fab work if needed to make something work. There’s a non-running Murray nitrox with an older predator 212 in my area (North Western Tennessee) that needs some work done but I haven’t been able to find much online in terms of an overall frame size comparison. Can anyone make any recommendations?
 

Jbrewer like

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Something I've done on probably a dozen or more karts that I've built for either myself or clients is making everything operate on quality well engineered hand controls. Anyone who can reach the steering wheel can drive them. With stationary foot controls it limits things a bit. I'm a towering 5'-6" tall so a machine like my shifter kart is not one that anyone larger can even attempt to get into.
 

ONE-EYE

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That looks so dangerous! If that chain broke just the certain way, it could easily come across that seat. Been working on a yerf dog 3203 myself but there's WAY more room and protection on it. Most cheaper clutches aren't going to work well on the larger karts. I'd definitely do a TAV. Maybe even reweld the engine mount a bit farther back or weld a bit of sheet metal behind the seat. If you end up having any problems with that Tecumseh let me know. I just pulled a running 6.5 hp and it has a new carb, spark plug, oil change, and an extra new magneto just in case. I'm just over here in knoxville. Good luck!
 

SpiritOf76@2

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That looks so dangerous! If that chain broke just the certain way, it could easily come across that seat. Been working on a yerf dog 3203 myself but there's WAY more room and protection on it. Most cheaper clutches aren't going to work well on the larger karts. I'd definitely do a TAV. Maybe even reweld the engine mount a bit farther back or weld a bit of sheet metal behind the seat. If you end up having any problems with that Tecumseh let me know. I just pulled a running 6.5 hp and it has a new carb, spark plug, oil change, and an extra new magneto just in case. I'm just over here in knoxville. Good luck!
Yeah, the way that chain was running was one of my biggest concerns. I did order the TAV (30 series). I’ve since disassembled the kart down to the frame for straightening and prepping it for painting. I had thought about moving the engine back but mainly for the purpose of having a bit more leg room as my son gets older, (my oldest son is 6’3”), but I was concerned about the correct angle for the drive train in relation to the engine.
 

ONE-EYE

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You should be ok as long as the chain rolls along both the sprockets without getting hung up. Looks like you have plenty of room to work with. Is your axle bent or is it just the protective sleeve or are my eyes just messing with me? If it is and you go to replace it, I'd leave your sprocket loose until you line it up with the motor and then bolt it down. Should be a lot easier since you've already tore everything down.
Yeah, the way that chain was running was one of my biggest concerns. I did order the TAV (30 series). I’ve since disassembled the kart down to the frame for straightening and prepping it for painting. I had thought about moving the engine back but mainly for the purpose of having a bit more leg room as my son gets older, (my oldest son is 6’3”), but I was concerned about the correct angle for the drive train in relation to the engine.
 

SpiritOf76@2

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The axle looks to be straight. The previous owners put some plastic hose protector or wire loom around the axle and it’s bunched up in spots.
 

SpiritOf76@2

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So, over the weekend I had a little free time to disassemble the rear axle. Luckily I’ve hesitated on ordering the parts because I would’ve ordered the wrong ones. I was expecting my axle to be the 7/8” hex variety (Manco PN 9323H) when it’s actually a 1” round axle, similar to what is found on the 485-152 series I think. Upon disassembly I discovered the key for the brake disc was missing and the disc had rotated on the axle about a 1/4 of the way around. I’ve had it soaking in oil/various penetrates in hopes of it loosening up as I still haven’t set up the shop from our previous move. I am going to see if any of the parts store have a puller large enough to pull it as my pullers are still packed up. Does anyone know if this could possibly be a Manco axle or is it likely aftermarket. The keyways are approximately 27-1/4” from the threads on the LS and 5-1/4” on the RS. The overall length is about 39-1/2”.
 

ONE-EYE

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The 39-1/2" is normally Manco or yerf dog or something of that size. I just had to take a saw zaw to mine because the tire wouldn't come off after a day of trying. If you're going to spend the money on a puller, you can get a new axle for about $50 and they have entire axle kits for $150. Have you tried taking a torch to the break drum just a bit? I haven't done this but if you're missing a key, needing a polish, and having issues with the drum, considering new might be an idea. Depends on how much time and work you want to put on it and the budget for it I suppose. Personally I opted to just go with a 40" kit that came with a new drum and added the 4x4 hubs for it so I hopefully wouldn't have to fight with tires anymore.
 
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