Help with wheel flare

[d2freak82]

So I have 4 rims - 3 I was able to punch out the bearings fine, well - in theory the 4th came out but a lot easier

The odd ball of the bunch had some issues where it looks like it flared on both ends from wallering around after a bearing went out and was not maintained. The bearing will sit in the hub but unless held in - it would fall out.
I'm trying to figure out a way to compress the metal back down - I really hate using a hammer to be a cheap bastard but I can't think of another way to compress that, I mean a strap wrench is the right idea behind it but I don't think it would be strong enough to bend that back where it needs to be unless heated up and then you'd melt the damn wrench and the tire on the rim lol
If anyone has any ideas it would be help, I can post a pic if needed.

 

[Millwright]

Depending on how messed up the bore is, you could get some shim stock and wrap it around the inside of the bore and then press the bearing in.

 

[madprofessor]

Can you weld? The best repairs for my past experiences with deformed or out-of-spec metal has most often been to replace the mangled or missing metal. Hammering an irregular surface (picturing a bearing opening with wallowed out and wavy edges) as flat as possible, then covering it or fitting into it a new piece of metal restores what you've lost. You weld it solid, and grind it flat and smooth.
In your application, drilling through it with a hole saw of the correct size for the bearing's O.D. makes it all brand new.

 

[d2freak82]

That is a tough place to grind, and getting a hole saw lined up would be difficult. I never thought about welding though.
It's tempting to weld the old bearing in, problem is, may never get it back out!
I'm liking the shim idea though, interesting ideas, could use a flapper wheel on the inside though hmm

 

[Millwright]

At this point, it appears to be a bit of a last ditch salvage job anyways. If it's worth any money, weld it up and have it bored out at a machine shop. Otherwise, make it work one way or another and be happy with any extended life you got out of it.

 

[d2freak82]

I like the shim idea, also was suggested to use a center punch in 3 places, triangle like... I'm looking for another rim but haven't had much luck in locating what I'm after for a reasonable price.

 

[madprofessor]

Lining up a hole saw is not an issue. You centerpunch a dot like you do starting any drillbit. The pilot drillbit in the center of the hole saw is what drills through first, and holds it dead centered while the hole saw part eats on through.

 

[Functional Artist]

Can you weld? The best repairs for my past experiences with deformed or out-of-spec metal has most often been to replace the mangled or missing metal. Hammering an irregular surface (picturing a bearing opening with wallowed out and wavy edges) as flat as possible, then covering it or fitting into it a new piece of metal restores what you've lost. You weld it solid, and grind it flat and smooth.
In your application, drilling through it with a hole saw of the correct size for the bearing's O.D. makes it all brand new.

Well, I kinda agree

If I were doing this type of repair, I'd weld a small/light bead around the inside of the rim, where the bearing goes
...& then do some whittlin' with a file or rotary grinder or something like that until the bearing fits in, nice-n-snug

This should be able, to be done, with the tire still mounted
...just a little/quick weld so, it shouldn't get too hot
...& a file &/or a rotary tool should be able to get in there pretty easily too

 

[d2freak82]

The issue with the hole saw is I'd be filling an 1 3/8" hole.
I may still try the bead, we'll see how things play out

 

[Millwright]

Another option,

There are several good two part putty that can be applied for build up, or molded around the bearing.
Loc-tite, and 3M are two brands that I have had very good results with as a steel filler.
JB WELD, as a backer could work too, but a little too liquid to apply.

 

[d2freak82]

Actually I really like that idea, that may be perfect! Hopefully I can find some pipe laying around for spacers - I'm sure I have something. I was able to save at least 2 of the factory spacers. Maybe 3 if I can find it lol

 

[madprofessor]

Now that's a good idea for an easy fix, but with JB Weld Epoxy PUTTY (gets hard as granite) instead of liquid. I'd stack up some pieces of scrap, whatever's handy, under the rim center until the rim center rests on it (outer side of rim face up), with masking tape on top piece.
After sanding off all paint and rust in/around the bearing seat, hammer the center as flat as possible and sit the bearing there on the scrap. A single turn of masking tape around the bearing's OD to prevent sticking might be a good idea. Then you knead your putty to activate it, and pack it tight all around the bearing, smearing it onto the rim edges with a little minimal building up for strength.
When SET for an hour, flip the rim over and smear a bunch more on the backside, stacked scrap for backing no longer needed.
CURE OVERNIGHT, not the 1-hour or less time for setting.
Good call, Millwright.

 

[d2freak82]

Mad - not sure your idea is quite the direction I would go, but there are some very good points within it! I attached a picture that is similar to what I'm working with - not my exact as I'm not home to take the picture.
I'm first going to test how much play I have or don't have with the bearing sitting in there, deeper inside the rim may not be bent where I could shove a bearing in with no lip/snap ring (with masking tape on it per your idea) - (this will only work if there's no movement in the bearing - and it would hold it centered) then fill in bent areas, pop the bearing out when it hardens (easier said than done I'm sure) - repeat on the other side, could use a 5/8's shaft or bolt once 1 side is done to help find center.
Pending how that works - or use hammer/punch to pound 1-3 sides straightish enough to hold the bearing straight, and back fill. I can't use the shoulder bearing until it's dry because I wouldn't be able to fill around it unless I held it up slightly and shoved the material down in the gap, then let the bearing slide in/drop in until hardened.
With your method - seems like you're pushing the rim into the bearing, or maybe I'm not understanding.
Obviously I would prep the inside of the hub with likely some emery cloth - probably open up my vice and sit the hub inside of there to keep it flat while working. 1 side of the hub sticks past the rim, the other side pretty much is flush with the outside edge of the rim. A lot of ideas with this method floating around my head though

 

[madprofessor]

Aha! Extended hub, now I get why you were thinking some sort of strap wrench. Plumbers use one where the strap is a piece of chain, but it still wouldn't squeeze a metal tube back to round again. You need a steel cone you can pound (the open end) over that extended hub to round it off, pointed end to round the inner side back out..

 

[d2freak82]

I still think the kwiksteel will do it though - getting things straight as possible is the key, but I think it'll work. If I could find a rim for my dang tire like the one above that was cheap I'd be all over it but it doesn't seem anything is that way these days.

 

[d2freak82]

I think it turned out pretty well, there wasn't as much play as I thought but still enough for movement, packed outside of bearing with kwiksteel after cleaning the surface and shoved in, pealed off excess.

 

[Bansil]

Only 1 way to tell.....fire up the video Camera, find a big arse jump....or like a ditch...and send it....
Be responsible though, wear a helmet and safety gear, also to preserve the archival footage, have a 2nd or 3rd party video it, also make sure their phones are charged etc.....I mean....it's for the childrenzze

Disclaimer....this is somewhat in gest, after all this is not summer 1978 when we jumped off the carport roof with golf umbrellas, it was okay my mom worked in the ER

 

[Denny]

I would pull the tire off the rim (tube too). Get a torch heat up the end of the tube cherry red and then quench with cold water. That shrinks the tube. Repeat until bearing is snug. Then reinstall tire and or tube.