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bob58o

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This “header” seems to span the entire 15’ width of my unit.

Would that be solid 2x8 up there?
I’m thinking about putting a sliding barn door type thing across the hall opening and would like to mount the rail directly to the wall without adding a plank of wood. I would like to keep the track and door as tight to the wall as possible.

If it’s just “2x4 stud framing” I’m not sure the mounting holes on the track will align with the studs.

IMG_6904.jpegIMG_6903.jpegIMG_6905.jpegIMG_6906.jpeg
 
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Denny

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Hard telling Bob. They usually did it the cheapest way possible. An 8’ 2”x4” was $.50 back then. What do you think?
 

bob58o

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I think it may be 2 x 8.

I was tapping on the wall but it sounds too much like knocking on the door for my dog.

If the “ceiling joists” run perpendicular to this “header” (I don’t know vocab) they would span 16’ across the room in the other direction. I’m assuming 2x8 would be needed?

location of the “header” / “beam” / “?” Is highlighted in green.

Or am I just being dumb and forgetting that there is a wall under most of that? Obviously, I’m not a baker.
IMG_6899.jpeg
 
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bob58o

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Disregard this whole post. For some reason I forgot the wall was there to hold the ceiling up.
Even if the header in the hallway was 2x8, there’s no reason the 2x8 would extend out another 38” so I still need to worry about stud location when mounting the rail.

It seems the right side of the rail would go into 2x4 stud framing right? Guessing 2x4 studs holding up a 2x4 top plate or double top plate?

I guess I’d need to drill new mounting holes to match up with studs. Hit as many studs as possible then use anchors in the other holes.

IMG_6904.jpeg
 
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ezcome-ezgo

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Yeah forget about anchors, you have to hit the studs like a sorority girl at a frat party. Likely a 2x8 sandwich above the opening like you said. A more poignant question is what floor are you on? Are there apartments above you? If so there are probably multiple 2x4 studs on both sides of that opening, like maybe even 4.
 

bob58o

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On top floor.
3 story building.

Im guessing I could center the rail/track somewhere near the king stud on the right side of the opening.

Id have to hit cripple studs on the left side and wall studs on the right side.

Track is around 80 to 84” depending on the hardware kit. Opening is 38” wide,
Door is 40” wide.

Opening is 82” tall and for an 84” tall door, the bottom the track (lowest bolt hole?) sits about 85.75” from floor.

If the header is 2x8 I could hit that.
If header is 2x4, I’d need to hit the cripples.


IMG_6909.pngIMG_6906.jpeg
 
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ezcome-ezgo

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Get one of these and try to map out what is there. Best $11 you'll ever spend.

 

bob58o

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Get one of these and try to map out what is there. Best $11 you'll ever spend.

I do have a stud finder. Not sure how good it works. I guess I can start out at the other end of the wall and try to mark off 16” OC (if 16” was used) and hopefully the cripple studs keep the 16” OC spacing from the rest of the wall.

A tape measure and stud finder and I might be able to map out the studs.
 

ezcome-ezgo

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That's what I suspected. Should be plenty of wood to support this project in that wall. Plus if you make a mistake, spackle is your friend.
 

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Hey Bob,

I have the same looking walkway header (between the living room & hallway) in my house (built in 1957)

I did some drywall work several years ago
...& this header, was just a box constructed out of 2 x 4's (IIRC the lower 2 x 4 was doubled up)
...& then, covered in drywall

FYI: the old (1950's) drywall was not the 4' x 8' sheets (like used today)
...but, 16" (wide) x 8' (tall) pieces, that covered each cavity, individually
 

bob58o

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Hey Bob,

I have the same looking walkway header (between the living room & hallway) in my house (built in 1957)

I did some drywall work several years ago
...& this header, was just a box constructed out of 2 x 4's (IIRC the lower 2 x 4 was doubled up)
...& then, covered in drywall

FYI: the old (1950's) drywall was not the 4' x 8' sheets (like used today)
...but, 16" (wide) x 8' (tall) pieces, that covered each cavity, individually

Based on knocks and the stud finder I think this is a 2x8. It might be a 2x4 box as I have zero framing experience.

Whole area sounds the same when knocking and it all looks the same with the stud finder.

Every thing looks like in the photo. Middle of red like hitting edge of stud. Never really going green as it would when finding the center of the stud. IMG_6918.jpegimage.jpg
 

bob58o

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Now do I even want this door?

Main goal is a bit of thermal and sound insulation. I rarely see this type of door closing against a wall. I’d have to deal with it closing tight against a wall with base trim about 1/2” deep. I could cut out a section of the baseboard easily, but still I’d need to mount the wheels to the door in a custom location and perhaps make a custom stop for that side. Maybe chop off the end of the rail.

It might not be worth it to add the worst type of door for my intended purposes. Wall AC unit in living room. Window AC in bedroom. Kitchen and bathroom and closet can stay hot. Want to lower summer electric bill without adding a door that is weird for its location.

I really like the look of this specific door, but it only comes in 38” wide, which is the width of the opening. Maybe I’ll add some sort of “trim” to frame it out, provide a “landing pad” when closing, and make the opening a bit smaller so a 38” could work. But I keep imagining hating a weird vertical plank going up my wallIMG_6920.jpegIMG_6921.jpeg
 
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ezcome-ezgo

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Doors like that are not intended for any thermal insulation, mostly for privacy concerns. If it were a non-bearing wall and you owned the place, I would suggest a pocket door.
 
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