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jmaack

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was headed to home depot and found a couple of horizontal shaft Briggs and Stratton flat heads. one on a tiller and one on an edger. seemed to have compression. will update when i get back home.


edger runs

tiller runs but has a screech noise sometimes. carb is an issue won't stay running.
 

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jmaack

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can some of you flathead experts let me know if they are worth or keep looking for something else. these both appear to be 5/8 shaft. trying to find a model and year number. not 100% sure if the tiller is a 5hp but it is noticibly larger than the 3 hp.

5hp?
 

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Karts of Kaos

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I'd keep them. then again I keep everything with a spark plug.

also carbs and stuff for these engines are fairly cheep.
 

jmaack

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1974 briggs? bueller?

also carbs and stuff for these engines are fairly cheep.

I'm seeing that. got this one soaking in diesel and gonna go through it later tonight or in the next couple days after work. has a weird throttle setup coming in from bottom mounted to tank. don't really care for it.


here is the old girl after a good carb cleaning. will pull the head in the near future and clean it nice and seat valves.

looking good

forgot one

head. glass beading tonight at work.
 

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JTSpeedDemon

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BTW 5/8 shaft means 3HP or less. Also that screeching sound on the tiller is either the drivetrain, or the starter clutch. Pull it apart and clean it, then put it back together dry with oil on the crankshaft stub.
 

jmaack

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BTW 5/8 shaft means 3HP or less. Also that screeching sound on the tiller is either the drivetrain, or the starter clutch. Pull it apart and clean it, then put it back together dry with oil on the crankshaft stub.

Yeah I thought it was a 5/8 shaft when it stll had the tiller pully on it. It is definitely a 3/4 shaft. I measured with calipers after the 5/8 clutch wouldnt fit.
It was the starter clutch also. I opened it up yesterday and cleaned and lightly oiled insides. Very smooth now.
 

JTSpeedDemon

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Uhhhh I would clean out that oil out of the chamber. The only place it should be oiled is where it touches the crankshaft stub, NOT in the bearign chamber! That'll cause it to slip and attract dirt, killing it prematurely. These clutches are not perfectly sealed, and designed to run dry with the only oil on the crank stub.
 

jmaack

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Uhhhh I would clean out that oil out of the chamber. The only place it should be oiled is where it touches the crankshaft stub, NOT in the bearign chamber! That'll cause it to slip and attract dirt, killing it prematurely. These clutches are not perfectly sealed, and designed to run dry with the only oil on the crank stub.
I cleaned inside out with carb cleaner and sprayed the balls with wd40 yesterday not the entire inside. id be willing to bet is the original clutch on a 46 year old engine as beat up and chewed up as the inside and rusty balls were. it'll be fine. if it fails it needs replaced anyway. thats the only way I could get it to retract even after cleaning and oiling the recoil spring.
 

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been fighting a no spark and weird spark. Found this today. wth.
 

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jmaack

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I like finding hidden gems.
 

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JTSpeedDemon

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If nothing else I tend to go straight pipe because the mufflers tend to rust out bad, I have one Briggs, when I picked it up I put one hand under the muffler for a handhold, I heard a CRUUUNCH and now there's extra flow in it.
 

jmaack

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If nothing else I tend to go straight pipe because the mufflers tend to rust out bad, I have one Briggs, when I picked it up I put one hand under the muffler for a handhold, I heard a CRUUUNCH and now there's extra flow in it.
this one is surprisingly solid. I will probably gut it and run a pipe through. then out to the 90degree plumbing fitting.

was going to replace but when I found it thought it looked kind of neat. I like finding and keeping other peoples handiwork if it'll work. this is going on a cruiser maybe 30-35 max. not wanting performance.
 
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